My first test results of my new pool

The pool company just handed over the keys to taking care of my pool and using the Taylor 2006 test kit my results are ....
FC = 6
CC = .4
PH= 8
TA = 140
CH = 280
CYA - 50
Salt - 3400

Also the SWG is set @ 50% VSP running 12 hrs a day @ 80%.

Any recommendations?
 

duraleigh

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I would get the pH down into the 7.0 - 7.2 range and then lower TA using the method described in Pool School to reduce the TA down to around 80..........that'll take more acid and aeration than you might think but iot will be helpful in partially stabilizing your pH below 8.0.

Your other numbers are fine. How does your water look?
 

mknauss

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I would suggest adding muriatic acid to lower your pH to 7.6. Test pH every few days.

Are you running your pump at that high of an rpm for a reason? Your SWCG is creating nearly 4 ppm FC per day. I doubt you need that much. You can either lower your SWCG percentage or decrease your pump run time if you find your FC climbing.

In the next month or so raise your CYA to the 70 ppm range.
 
I would get the pH down into the 7.0 - 7.2 range and then lower TA using the method described in Pool School to reduce the TA down to around 80..........that'll take more acid and aeration than you might think but iot will be helpful in partially stabilizing your pH below 8.0.

Your other numbers are fine. How does your water look?
Water looks great! Thanks for the info!
 
I would suggest adding muriatic acid to lower your pH to 7.6. Test pH every few days.

Are you running your pump at that high of an rpm for a reason? Your SWCG is creating nearly 4 ppm FC per day. I doubt you need that much. You can either lower your SWCG percentage or decrease your pump run time if you find your FC climbing.

In the next month or so raise your CYA to the 70 ppm range.
The settings are what the pool company set it at. I was wondering the same thing seems like I could dial it back a little. The only thing i dosed was some Muriatic Acid yesterday about 26oz.
 

mknauss

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With new plaster be careful dropping your pH too low. Your CSI will be very negative. It is best with new plaster to keep the CSI at 0 or slightly positive for a while.
 

mknauss

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The settings are what the pool company set it at. I was wondering the same thing seems like I could dial it back a little. The only thing i dosed was some Muriatic Acid yesterday about 26oz.
I suggest you lower your pump rpm to just enough to close the flow switch on the SWCG. Start at a low rate and move up until you see were the flow switch closes. Then add 100 rpm. Only caveat may be your heater. It may need slightly higher flow rate than your SWCG.
 
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With new plaster be careful dropping your pH too low. Your CSI will be very negative. It is best with new plaster to keep the CSI at 0 or slightly positive for a while.
Using the wheel in the test kit and @ temp is 81 the CSI was 7.5 if i was reading it right? And i was shooting for 7.4 on the PH scale. I will definitely keep in mind not to put too much acid in...Thanks!
 
Then you are past the 30 days where CSI should be kept positive. You should now keep CSI between 0 to -0.6.

Please use PoolMath to calculate CSI for discussion here.

What test kit are you using? Please put it in your signature..
I am using the Taylor 2006 test kit. IF he numbers i tested are correct per the SI wheel that came with the test kit pictured here says i am at 7.5. I just lugged in the info on the pool math calculator and it says 0.43 / -.09?
 

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ajw22

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I am using the Taylor 2006 test kit. IF he numbers i tested are correct per the SI wheel that came with the test kit pictured here says i am at 7.5. I just lugged in the info on the pool math calculator and it says 0.43 / -.09?
I think you are reading the pH window on the wheel. The CSI on the wheel varies from +2.0 to -2.0.

CSI is a single number. What is 0.43 / -.09? What numbers are you plugging into PoolMath?
 

ajw22

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Jul 21, 2013
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Northern NJ
Ok, your current CSI is +0.43. Use PoolMath and not the wheel in discussing CSI here. They are both called CSI but the calculations are a bit different.

You need to get your CSI negative. Best way is to keep your pH between 7.3 - 7.5. With your high TA your pH will rise rapidly so you will need to add MA daily. As you add MA it will reduce your TA and over time your TA should come down, unless you have lots of evaporation and high TA in your fill water. If your TA gets down around 70 then your pH can stay around 7.8.

It may take a year with new plaster but eventually your pH and TA should find an equilibrium and you should need to add MA less often.

Do you have an autofill on your pool?
 
Ok, your current CSI is +0.43. Use PoolMath and not the wheel in discussing CSI here. They are both called CSI but the calculations are a bit different.

You need to get your CSI negative. Best way is to keep your pH between 7.3 - 7.5. With your high TA your pH will rise rapidly so you will need to add MA daily. As you add MA it will reduce your TA and over time your TA should come down, unless you have lots of evaporation and high TA in your fill water. If your TA gets down around 70 then your pH can stay around 7.8.

It may take a year with new plaster but eventually your pH and TA should find an equilibrium and you should need to add MA less often.

Do you have an autofill on your pool?
Thanks for the info!! yes i have an autofill on a well system.