Mustard Algae - Welcome to the Dark Side

Jun 23, 2018
22
Weldon Spring, MO
I'll probably get "slammed" for this. And, yes this is about the C word... Copper seems to be blasphemy around here. But, I thought I'd share my experience with it. Actually, this is an ongoing saga. So, this post may be a little premature. Consider this Episode I.

Our first pool season was 2012. We've never had an algae problem until around mid-June of this year. I've always considered pool maintenance easy. But, this year has been challenging. I've never used or needed an algaecide product until this year. First tried the basic cheap "foaming" type algaecides. I didn't find the foaming to be much of a problem. You splash and it makes a couple bubbles. So what. That effect only lasts a few days as the product breaks down. In any case, the product seems to do nothing for algae control.

This stuff kept growing on the bottom of the pool. Clean it up in the morning. By the evening, it would be mostly back. I have to assume mustard algae even though everyone tells me it's rare. The water has always remained crystal clear. This stuff accumulated mostly on the bottom. And, brushes off easily into a dust cloud. Raising the chlorine helped somewhat. But, the problem seemed to be getting worse over time. I had ruled out pollen since it did show some response to chlorine. More of a control, than a kill. Originally, if FC fell below 5, it would take over. However, this threshold level seemed to keep escalating. And, there were no CYA products being used; only liquid chlorine.

So, then, I discover TFP. I read about the "SLAM" process. The key to that seems to be CYA. The pool store was giving me inconsistent results. So, time to do my own testing. And, now I can see why the results are inconsistent. That test is so subjective. In any case, I'm 100% certain my CYA is between 60 and 100. My wife and I were originally trying to decide if it was 50 or 60. Later I tried a 50/50 diluted sample since the BD CYA test seems geared toward reading lower CYA. This reading was between 30 and 40. So, you're supposed to take the higher number. And, with the diluted sample, this means 80. Those chlorine numbers all look astronomical to me. But, since I'm 100% certain it's at least 60, I'll go with that even though it's most likely 80. So, that means FC up to 24.

Basically, for about 2 weeks, I had been holding the chlorine around 20-24 each night. It would drop 0 or 1 overnight (OCLT pass). CC would be 0. And, we have clear water. Isn't that the SLAM ending criteria? But, this algae stuff would keep growing. Brush, brush, brush. The sun would burn off about 4-6 ppm over the day. And, repeat the next night. Getting nowhere. In fact, I feel like I'm just selectively breeding more and more chlorine resistant algae.

Friday, the copper algaecide (http://a.co/2ZuCDTM) shows up from Amazon. Dosage says 18oz for a pool of my size. We'll go with that. Instructions say to dilute with 1 gallon water before adding (look at all those empty chlorine bottles over there). Go to bed FC=24. Saturday morning FC=16, CC=1. Wow, something happened that night. And, I've never really seen an obvious combined chlorine measurement (vivid pink from reagent #3). No visible algae. But, brushing revealed some slight dust. This could have been spots I missed; the previous night it was all over the place. But, the usual spots were clean. Water still clear. Filter pressure unchanged. Next night, FC=20. Morning FC=18. Again, no visible algae. However, this time, brushing couldn't find dust anywhere. And, Sunday night FC=21. Monday morning FC=22. Lost nothing last night; just testing inaccuracy. And, still no dust and crystal clear water. This is looking very promising. I think the solution was the Cu and the Cl. The results seem to suggest that the Cu did something to allow the Cl to finally kill that stuff.

I realize there is a slight risk to green hair, etc. But, I can't imagine that being an issue with a single dose. I'm not planning on adding any more; it will hang around for a long time. And, I'm not too worried about staining on the liner. It's a blue patterned pebble. Staining the white stairs wouldn't be desirable. Perhaps raising the chlorine level further would have eventually killed it. But, this has risks too. And, I probably would have had to bring down CYA some with a partial drain/fill. Also, I really don't want to bleach out my new liner (replaced 2017).

Oh yeah, I didn't talk about ph. It's usually uneventful. It hangs out around 7.4. Ph around here is easy to deal with. Our water source has practically 0 TA. I've NEVER used MA. Just some baking soda (lots of it actually) keeps things balanced. It will be interesting to see where the Ph level really is when I allow the Chlorine to drop to normal levels. I expect it to be low since I haven't added baking soda throughout this process (I need an accurate Ph read to make this decision). Top-off water and rain tend to drive Ph down.

My plan is to hold the chlorine up for another day or two. Swap/clean filters and hopefully be done with this. I'll declare victory if the algae doesn't return when the Cl goes down to normal levels. To be continued...
 
Honestly, you can add whatever you like to your pool as long as you understand and accept the risks. There’s nothing magical about copper - it’s an algaecide and it’s used to control algae in ponds all the time.

In your pool you now have 0.3ppm Cu concentration; I would highly suggest that you do not use anymore. Over time, chlorine will oxidize that copper and it will settle out as first as copper hydroxide (light brown/tan color) and then further oxidize to copper oxide (more of black color). Where that staining will occur, no one can predict. It could happen on your vinyl liner, or on your steps or, if you’re really lucky, maybe it will happen inside your filter....no way to know for sure. Green hair is only a problem if you’re blonde. Once the stains occur, they will be difficult to treat and remove - unlike iron, copper is a lot harder to remove and usually requires an expensive, multi-step chemical process (typically TFP recommends Jack’s Magic Copper Stain removal process). Those chemicals will only return the copper to the water which you will have to dump in order to truly get rid of them.

My best guess is that you had poor water circulation in those areas (and possible a liner seam there) and that there was simply a reservoir of algae that could grow. Using Polyquat-60 (ie, not the cheap, foaming linear quat algaecide) would have helped to eradicate the algae and keep it away. I also would have recommended you look at your phosphate levels before doing anything with copper as phosphates are a known source of nutrients for algae and treating for them can help make pool water less reactive to algae growth. PQ-60 and phosphate removal are both treatments that are completely reversible and leave nothing behind in your pool water that can’t be easily removed. Copper leaves itself behind and can be a source of future problems.

Glad your algae is gone, but keep an eye out for staining. 0.3ppm Cu is right on the edge of where staining is possible.
 
Those chlorine numbers all look astronomical to me. But, since I'm 100% certain it's at least 60, I'll go with that even though it's most likely 80. So, that means FC up to 24.

Mike:

Welcome to the forum. Once you have the pool back to normal, I would most like recommend you use the higher, which is 80 for CYA. Keep your minimums based on 80 and brush the pool at least weekly, and if you have time, twice per week to keep everything moving along. Slowly, over time, you will loose some CYA and the level will be more manageable. Thanks!
 
Thanks for the responses. I really appreciate your input.

This evening, the bottom was so super clean. But, I saw a few dead bugs on the bottom. So, I ran the s300i robot. And, I was very pleased to see that for the first time the filters trapped what looked like normal pool dirt. It wasn't the greenish-brown fishy smelling stuff from before. It smelled like normal "pool". Again, very encouraging. Also, I went ahead and swapped the main pool cartridge sets. The set I pulled didn't look as bad as I expected. The rinse-off looked pretty normal. Previously, when I swapped them, the water washing off them had loads of that greenish-brown stuff. The filters actually rinsed out very white. That's probably from having such high chlorine running through them for such a long time.

Also, I had thought of possible circulation problems. I had the returns pointing downward from the advice of the pool store. We have 5 normal returns, plus 2 more on the steps. Also, there are 4 aerators available. The weather has finally cooled off some. But, earlier, I had the aerators running 24/7 as the pool temps were getting into the 90s. Also, I had tried using the pressure side cleaner a couple times. It has the advantage that it can be used when it's raining. Also, it's kind of like a moving return that distributes water all over the pool. Of course, this eliminated the algae... for about 12 hours. The same with s300i. It would mechanically clean it up. But, it kept coming back. I believe the two cleaners compliment each other... as long as they aren't run at the same time :)

Also, I had drawn and tested water samples at different locations in the pool - even near some algae. The results were very consistent. So, I'm leaning toward thinking we don't have any major circulation problems.
 
You mentioned mustard algae in your title and it certainly sounds that way from what you described. Did you actually follow the SLAM process as outlined in the Mustard Algae article -

Pool School - Mustard Algae

Based on the chart —-> HERE <—- you should have raised your FC to 46ppm for 24 hours after completing the SLAM.

Did you do that?
 
No, I did not do that. I did see that for mustard algae. But, a FC level of 46 has its own set of risks. First off, the pool is going to have sky high FC for a lot longer than 24 hours. I can see potential for damage to the liner at those levels. Also, the pool would be out of service for quite some time. And even after going through all that, the problem has a high probability of recurring. I can't imagine trying to decontaminate every pool toy, bathing suite, etc. And, then you have guests come over? That just doesn't seem realistic.

Also, based on what I was seeing, I'm not really convinced that a FC of 46 was going to kill it. That stuff was still GROWING even with FC > 20.

While copper does have some potential pitfalls, there are some nice advantages to it. There is a far less chance of a future outbreak. The water can kill it immediately. I just don't need to worry about something contaminated getting in the pool. Also, I'd expect to have an easier opening next season.
 
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