Muriatic Acic vs pH Down (Sodium Bisulfate) for Spa pH control

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dw886

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Sep 19, 2016
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New to the spa world. In my pool, I use MA and a stenner pump because I'm scared of the MA and prefer to only handle it once / year. I don't keep and acid around outside of the acid that's in the container that the stenner pump pulls from. I also know that Sodium Bisulfate is not the preferred choice for maintaining pH in a pool.

In the hot tub world where water is dumped more frequently are the rules different than the pool world?

The dose of MA for a 430 gallon spa is so small, I'm not sure how I'd measure it close enough without spilling, so granules that don't eat flesh or anything else instantly seem ideal. That being said, I will also be using a SWG with my hot tub, and I don't want to go through cells, so anything that causes complications there could be concerning. I've read that the problem with Sodium Bisulfate is the buildup on the SWG plates, but I can't tell if that's more in line with pools, or if a spa would be considered the same.

What do most people use in spas to control pH rise? I know keeping TA in check helps, but I'm assuming some rise is inevitable so I'll have to treat eventually and want to make sure I have the correct supplies on hand...
 
Use a “non fuming” version of MA. It would be 10 Baume or 15%. The lower concentration will mean very little odor and a larger quantity to measure out. And, honestly speaking, muriatic acid does not “eat flesh” ... I understand your caution but let’s try to be sensible about chemicals. Dry acid powders can be just as dangerous as muriatic acid. As long as you handle it with appropriate care, you’re not in any danger. I have gotten full strength MA on my skin many times and I assure you I’m not a zombie extra on the set of “The Walking Dead”.

If you are using an SWG in your spa, you most certainly do not want to use dry acid. Sulfates from dry acid cause increased wear on the specialized metal coatings of the SWG plates. You will also more quickly corrode metal parts, especially your heater element, with sulfates present (unless your tub has been upgraded with a titanium metal heater). Muriatic acid is the least harmful way to control pH in a hot tub.
 
JoyfulNoise said:
Use a “non fuming” version of MA. It would be 10 Baume or 15%. The lower concentration will mean very little odor and a larger quantity to measure out. And, honestly speaking, muriatic acid does not “eat flesh” ... I understand your caution but let’s try to be sensible about chemicals. Dry acid powders can be just as dangerous as muriatic acid. As long as you handle it with appropriate care, you’re not in any danger. I have gotten full strength MA on my skin many times and I assure you I’m not a zombie extra on the set of “The Walking Dead”.

If you are using an SWG in your spa, you most certainly do not want to use dry acid. Sulfates from dry acid cause increased wear on the specialized metal coatings of the SWG plates. You will also more quickly corrode metal parts, especially your heater element, with sulfates present (unless your tub has been upgraded with a titanium metal heater). Muriatic acid is the least harmful way to control pH in a hot tub.
Click to expand...

Exactly what I wanted to know. I know that I also read on here (it may have been you even) that when pouring MA into water, to float the jug into the body of water so there's less splashing, which I like the idea of as it also washes the MA container when you're done. Tough part there is that you're trying to guess what 0.2 oz looks like. :cool:
 
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