Moving pool pad next week - feedback on optimal plumbing design?

RioTubes

New member
May 24, 2020
1
Los Angeles
Hello, I'm new to this forum. We are moving the pool equip pad in a few days and have the chance to re-plumb the pump, DE filter and heater. I'd appreciate feedback on optimal plumbing design from the experts to help avoid mistakes.
I've uploaded a photo of the current equipment (Jandy LXi gas heater; Hayward Super II 1.13 THP; Hayward DE 4820 filter).

Questions:
1. The current pipe is 2" rigid PVC which I'll stick with but would appreciate your advise on whether there is a better layout. Could I avoid elbows in/out of filter by turning the filter 90 degrees clockwise? Otherwise, what is the optimal plumbing route for this system? Does it require a manifold for the filter or heater to avoid elbow joints?
2. There is only one suction pipe running into pump and one return pipe out of heater (where i normally see 2 pipes with a 3-way value). Is this bad?
3. I'd like to install an inline sacrificial anode between the filter and heater. I read this is good to reduce corrosion even if one does not have a salt water system.
4. I plan to install high temp unions in and out of the pump. Should I install more between the filter and heater, or out of the heater (to make future repair easier)?
5. it was advised that I move the control panel 15-20 feet away to the exterior house wall where the main electrical panel is located to declutter. Would you do this?
6. I'd like to run the suction and return pipes into gravel/sand instead of thru concrete. Would you recommend one concrete pad vs two smaller ones (what dimensions)? If we add spa, it will be built in with its own equipment.

Thanks!
 

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ajw22

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 21, 2013
18,069
Northern NJ
Welcome to TFP.

1. The current pipe is 2" rigid PVC which I'll stick with but would appreciate your advise on whether there is a better layout. Could I avoid elbows in/out of filter by turning the filter 90 degrees clockwise?
If you turn the filter so it's pipes point towards the heater you can make a straight run from filter out to heater in.

I would replace the bump valve with an MPV valve which will change the location of your filter connections.

Elbows are not a big deal. Use them where you need them.

Otherwise, what is the optimal plumbing route for this system?
Move the pump closer to the filter between the heater and the filter to get a clean run into the filter input.

Does it require a manifold for the filter or heater to avoid elbow joints?
No.

2. There is only one suction pipe running into pump and one return pipe out of heater (where i normally see 2 pipes with a 3-way value). Is this bad?
No. You work with what you inherit.

3. I'd like to install an inline sacrificial anode between the filter and heater. I read this is good to reduce corrosion even if one does not have a salt water system.
Can't hurt. Unlikely to make a difference. It is your money. What is there to corrode?

4. I plan to install high temp unions in and out of the pump. Should I install more between the filter and heater, or out of the heater (to make future repair easier)?
Install a Heater Bypass - Further Reading

Unions on pump and heater. Others are not necessary.

5. it was advised that I move the control panel 15-20 feet away to the exterior house wall where the main electrical panel is located to declutter. Would you do this?
What is in the control panel? If you a re spending money then put in some automation system to control pump, heater and lights..

6. I'd like to run the suction and return pipes into gravel/sand instead of thru concrete. Would you recommend one concrete pad vs two smaller ones (what dimensions)?
Hard to say. I don;' have a view of the surrounding area or where the pipes run underground.