Most common leak point after pump motor replacement?

andrew85

Member
Oct 29, 2019
8
Miami
Just recently replaced the pump motor and now have a slow leak from it seems like the bottom of the housing/motor interface. Hayward SP2610X15 with a UST1152 1.5HP motor, replaced with the same. I did replace all gaskets (bought one of those repair kits from Amazon) - which did include the shaft seal and housing seal. I noticed the old shaft seal was "stuck" very well to the impeller, while the new one fits quite loosely on the impeller, which I did not replace. Not sure if that's normal. Some pics attached. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.



Old impeller, new shaft seal.




 

ajw22

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 21, 2013
16,046
Northern NJ
Was your seal kit from Amszon genuine Hayward parts? We often hear of seal and O ring kits that are not original manufacturer and don’t fit perfectly.
 
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JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
18,447
The part on the impeller is upside down.

The graphite/carbon part needs to make contact with the ceramic part.

That seal is junk anyway. The one you want is U.S Seal PS-3868.



The part in the picture has the graphite part at the top.

When installed, the flat part should sit flat against the impeller and the graphite part should be away from the impeller such that it contacts the ceramic part of the seal in the seal plate when the impeller is threaded onto the shaft.

There's a rubber part of the seal that can be left behind when the old seal is removed. So make sure that the whole old seal is removed.

When installing a new seal, you want to use something that will provide temporary lubricity and that will wash away when water begins to flow.

Seal lube works best but you can use dish soap.


 
Last edited:
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andrew85

Member
Oct 29, 2019
8
Miami
Well f me. Thank you kindly James for catching my stupidity. So to answer my own post - most common cause of a leak in this case is user (install) error!

The PS-3868 seems to be for salt systems - but you'd recommend it anyways in my non-salt system? Thanks again.
 

wireform

Silver Supporter
In The Industry
Aug 15, 2017
1,214
Spring Valley, NY
The part on the impeller is upside down.

The graphite/carbon part needs to make contact with the ceramic part.

That seal is junk anyway. The one you want is U.S Seal PS-3868.



The part in the picture has the graphite part at the top.

When installed, the flat part should sit flat against the impeller and the graphite part should be away from the impeller such that it contacts the ceramic part of the seal in the seal plate when the impeller is threaded onto the shaft.

There's a rubber part of the seal that can be left behind when the old seal is removed. So make sure that the whole old seal is removed.

When installing a new seal, you want to use something that will provide temporary lubricity and that will wash away when water begins to flow.

Seal lube works best but you can use dish soap.


Good catch on that one.
 

andrew85

Member
Oct 29, 2019
8
Miami
Ok got the PS3868. No more leak. FWIW the crappy seal, even in the proper orientation, still leaked. So as the saying goes....do it nice, or do it twice. Thanks all for the help.


 
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Troubadork

New member
Jan 29, 2020
2
Southern California
When installing a new seal, you want to use something that will provide temporary lubricity and that will wash away when water begins to flow.

Seal lube works best but you can use dish soap.
Hello JamesW,

So, do you mean to apply the Seal Lube to the ceramic/graphite surface or just on the rubber part to help install the seal?