Matt4x4

matt4x4

Well-known member
Apr 2, 2007
312
Hi All,
Thought I'd also introduce myself since everyone else has.
My name's Matt (like that's a tough one to figure out), the 4x4 is kinda self explanatory as well.
I live in Ontario, somewhat in the middle of nowhere and like it like that - most times, I can be found in and around mudholes, claypits and forest trails.
Outside of keeping the pool sparkling for my wife and son, my other interest are Wilderness Camping 24/7/365, Motocross, Mountainbiking, skiing, and generally anything to do with life outdoors - oh yeah, Muscle cars, drag racing and hardrock are also on that list somewhere. I also like to design and build stuff to make my life (and sometimes others lives) better and easier.
We have a 30 foot AGP, built by myself about 4 years ago - anything you need to know WRT the construction of an AG pool, feel free to ask.
 

duraleigh

Admin
Mod Squad
TFP Expert
Platinum Supporter
LifeTime Supporter
In The Industry
Apr 1, 2007
32,864
Sebring, Florida
For those of you who don't recognize Matt's username, he is a real pro on AGP issues. His posts are always informative and very helpful to AGP folks. (and general pool questions as well) Matt, good to see you on the forum....welcome.
 

medvampire

LifeTime Supporter
Apr 3, 2007
278
East Tennessee
Welcome Matt :-D
Sorry couldn't help my self.
Did you ever do the LED in to the Aquailumatior hull we talked about last year??
I didn't get the chance but I have a dead bulb sitting on the shelf waiting for time this next winter.
 

matt4x4

Well-known member
Apr 2, 2007
312
Thanks!
Medvamp - funny you say that, I was just looking into 12v AC MR 16 color changing LED bulbs with control yesterday - think I found one for 80-90 bucks (bulb only) has built in circuitry that works from the on/off switching to cycle the patterns.
Most multi colored MR16 are DC only(at least that's what hte manufacturers recommend since AC seems to blow up their bulbs), although normal LED MR16's seem to come made for both AC and DC.
With this particular bulb I found, it would be as simple as submerging the dead bulb assembly in hot/boiling water, this will soften the white glue you see through the lens, then with a towel to protect your hand from the hot plastic, it should just unscrew - with a 3/4" twist and pull off.
The goop can be scraped off with a knife and you can reseal it all with new acrylic caulk or silicone when you've installed and tested the new bulb.

Now that it's appart, remove the old bulb - not sure how much wire's in there, so it may mean gutting the chassis and drilling out the resin seal on the backside if the leads aren't long enough to get at it from the front only, retrofit the MR16 in there, wire up a couple of leads with connectors, either use 2 part epoxy or resin to reseal the rear hole, caulk the lens in place, let it all set up and connect to the existing power supply - should work in theory since the supply is 12V AC and that's all that's needed.
Cycling the supply voltage would step you through the programs on this bulb.

Since a replacement bulb is 40-50 bucks, I'm going this route for the extra 20-30 bucks once mine dies (it's STILL working) - I've never actually wanted something to break, but this is the one thing.........

Links to the bulb that should work for this application:
http://www.bestnest.com/bestnest/RTProd ... LIG-566224
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/p ... atid=16859