Low out flow cartridge filter

breanna96

Member
May 13, 2019
24
Louisiana
Is it normal to be needing to cleaning cartridge filter every 30 minutes? After about 30 minutes the water out flow is low. Clean the filter and it runs fine. I know for sure there is no clog in the pipes. I took the filter out ran it for 2 hours and had no problems. Pool was a swampy green (wasn't put up in 2018). Water is balanced and I shocked it with 8 pounds of shock. It's very cloudy can hardly see 6 inches deep. Should I just keep cleaning filter until it starts clearing up?
 
Welcome to the forum!
You have algae. Your filter is plugging up from the algae.
You need to SLAM Process. To do that, you need a proper test kit. Can you post a full set of test results?

I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry and consider reviewing the entire Pool School eBook
 
96,

Your filter is doing what you paid it to do... Clean the junk of the water.. The problem is not the filter... It is a chemical problem...

I second Marty's reading list...

I really doubt your idea of "balanced" is what we think of as "balanced" Look at our Pool School and see what we are all about..

Thanks for posting,

Jim R.
 
All I have are test strips they only read chlorine up to 10ppm so not really sure how high it actually is
Total Hardness - 250
Total Chlorine - 10?
Free Chlorine - 10?
pH - 7.2
Total Alkalinity- 120
Stabilizer - 10
Also took a sample to the pool store and they also said the reading was perfect
 
96,

Just one example of why we never believe anything that a pool store employee says.. :mrgreen:

How is it possible for a pool to be perfect if you can't see the bottom???

Please read what we are all about, it will make our pool care process much more clear.

Jim R.
 
Only went there to get a second testing. I know there is a problem and now I know it's not the ph or alkalinity causing it to be cloudy. Its algae and I was only wondering if it was normal for filter to be clogging up. Have had pool for 7 years and this has never happened when opening it up. Thanks for the advice appreciate it!
 
Breanna,

I think we need to step back a bit. Test strips are incredibly inaccurate. Pool store tests are unreliable because the people doing the tests are often not adequately trained and/or the equipment is not maintained properly. Also pool stores make money by selling you chemicals so they are conflicted. Not all are dishonest and/or ignorant but many are and you don't usually find out 'till you spend hundreds of $ and then have a pool mess. We have many posts here from people that have gone through this. TFP starts with very simple and highly accurate tests you can perform yourself. Then our methodology uses generic chemicals you can get at big box stores to balance your water chemistry for a sparkling, clean and safe pool. We sell nothing. All we have are experts and pool enthusiasts that want to help people like you. The tests and methods are designed so anybody can do it and we'll help you get the hang of it every step of the way.

So I hope you'll read through the materials we provide in Pool School (also click on the link below for beginners), ask all your questions then get rolling with TFP for you!

Good luck!

Chris
 
Did you order the 'C" version? If not, if you can change your order, do it. Or you will need to order FAS-DPD and CYA reagent refills immediately.

Add 5 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine each evening until you get your test kit and post the results here.
 

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Test kit came in yesterday just didn't have any time to test it. Also ran out of bleach yesterday and I haven't had a chance to run into town and get more.

Cc 0
Fc 0
Ph 7.4
Ta 110
Ch 240
Cya 0 I had put stabilizer in over a week ago and I don't know why it says there is none

Here's a picture of how cloudy the water is
 

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How much CYA did you add?
Take how much you added and determine how much you need to add to get to 30 ppm CYA. Add the amount you need via the sock method.
Lower your pH to 7.2 and SLAM Process. For your FC level, assume you have 30 ppm CYA in the water. Your FC level will be 12 ppm. Add liquid chlorine and every couple hours test your FC and add more chlorine. Do that as much as you can the first day or two. Once the pool is cloudy blue, your FC should start to hold better.

Please fill out your signature. Helps us help you.
 
How did you add the CYA?
Do me a favor. Add enough liquid chlorine to raise your FC to 10 ppm. Circulate the pool for 15 minutes. Test the FC and CC. Report your results here.
 
So, you have a decision. You can go forward and use chlorine to eliminate the ammonia. We do not know how much it will take. You can get an ammonia test at a store that has aquarium supplies. Or you can drain your pool to about 18" from the bottom, fill it back up, and then do the ammonia elimination, but hopefully with less chlorine.

To use chlorine now, follow
To check and defeat ammonia, if necessary, is to raise your FC in the water using enough liquid chlorine to get to 10 ppm using PoolMath. Circulate the pool for 15 minutes. Test FC. If FC at 5 or below, add LC to get to 10 using LC, circulate for 15 minutes, repeat until your FC is above 5 ppm after the 15 minute circulation.
 
There is always risk when draining. I am not an expert on above ground pools but it is my understanding as long as you leave 18" or so of water in the pool the liner will not shift.

Let's ask @zea3 for her input on the liner.
 

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