Low Inlet Pressure to Hayward 400K natural gas heater

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
28,262
It should be relatively little plumbing and the regulator.

I would not expect it to be super expensive.

If someone quotes over $500.00, get a different estimate.
 
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JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
28,262
At the heater, you add a regulator and there should be a drip leg , which helps prevent debris from getting into the heater's gas valve.
R = Regulator. V= Valve. The drip leg is a capped pipe that goes down.

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At the output of the meter, you would replumb so that the heater supply gets 2 psi from before the regulator and move the regulator up for the house supply.

The regulator at the heater would be the same type/model as the one that is already supplying the heater and the house.

The contractor should be able to do all of the work.

The gas company does everything up to and including the meter.

Anything after the meter can be done by a contractor.
 
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JoyfulNoise

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May 23, 2015
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Hmmm … the pipe into the house is under tension from being yanked into alignment … no longer a 90.

As long as it doesn’t leak, right?

It’s fine. We can nit-pick it all day long but it got you what you needed. They probably used pre-threaded pipe lengths and that’s the best they could do. A real pro would thread their own pipe but that takes a bit more time and skill than what the gas company wants to expend.
 

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wireform

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In The Industry
Aug 15, 2017
3,133
Spring Valley, NY
Gas company work doesn't always look pretty but they're responsible as it has their signature. Before wifi or even drive by meter reading was a thing they would need access and trudge down to my basement monthly to read the meter. So years back I had a larger gas meter installed due to the addition of a home standby generator so besides the fact I had requested it be moved from inside my basement to the exterior which wasn't an issue I kindly asked if they can install inline tee which I supplied. I watched them throughout the job and kept correcting them on the sloppiness. At one point I gave up and let them finish so they can get out, just couldn't watch stupidity anymore. The following weekend I undid all their work and did it the way I like things to be done. Obviously I exchanged fittings to accommodate the corrections but they were just too lazy to go find it in the truck.. As was stated earlier "industrial art" it was but I wanted it prettier.....
 

stephenson

Well-known member
Nov 30, 2009
136
wineform - yeah, I try and not think about how ugly the gas company work is - doesn't leak, though.

So, here's status!

Hired local gas contractor and watched carefully asking a few questions along the way. Nice fellow who tolerated my questions well :)

Photos -
Static pressure to heater gas valve is 22.63"
Running pressure to heater gas valve is 7.52'
Outlet pressure from heater gas valve is 2.0" (popping around so I set it where it sorta centered on 2.0")
- Note: checked the inside label, again, and it specifies 2.0", not the range specified for some other pool heaters

Got some learning out of it, but it was $562.50 ... about an hour's work. Tech said regular was about $200. He had to go get parts, but the company communicated very well - text confirmations on appointments, the tech contacted 30 minutes out, and while he was delayed at supply company, etc.
 

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JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
28,262
Static pressure to heater gas valve is 22.63"
Running pressure to heater gas valve is 7.52'
The static is too high.

The output from the regulator should not exceed 10.5".

Low pressure is specified as 0.5 psi, or less.

0.5 psi is 13.85" w.c, which is the most I would put on the gas valve.
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Also, the amount of drop seems excessive.

If we use a maximum input of 10.5" and a minimum of 4.5", the maximum drop should not exceed 6' w.c and the ideal drop would be closer to about 2" w.c to 2.5" w.c maximum.

I would ask the service tech to lower the pressure to 10" w.c and then recheck the drop.

If the drop is more than 2.5" w.c, then the line might have an issue or maybe the regulator is not rated for the btu/hr.

Have the service tech make sure that the regulator is rated for 400,000 btu/hr or 400 cubic feet per hour.

Sometimes water gets in the line or sometimes the line rusts out.

That's why I initially suggested replacing the line, but at only 3 years old, the line should be in good condition.

Pool is three years old - plumbing installed same time as pool.

At only three years old, the line should be fine, but it might still have an issue.

Maybe have it pressure tested and then blown out to make sure that the line is clear.
 
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stephenson

Well-known member
Nov 30, 2009
136
Static was dropping as I was taking photo ... regular is preset at 8" (or at least that is what the label says) ... didn't wait long enough for it to stabilze, perhaps?

Will check.

After the risers it goes to plastic - at least that is normal for around here.

Starts quickly and there is clearly more gas going into it as it heated the pool faster - makes a bit more combustion noise, as well.
 
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JoyfulNoise

TFP Expert
Platinum Supporter
May 23, 2015
18,619
Tucson, AZ
Pool Size
16000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Sounds like you got the fix you needed to make it work better. Glad it all worked out for you. Can you post a picture of the regulator they used at your heater? They are adjustable if you need to tweak the operating pressures a bit.
 

ps0303

TFP Expert
In The Industry
Jul 6, 2011
4,128
FL
Static was dropping as I was taking photo ... regular is preset at 8" (or at least that is what the label says) ... didn't wait long enough for it to stabilze, perhaps?

Will check.

After the risers it goes to plastic - at least that is normal for around here.

Starts quickly and there is clearly more gas going into it as it heated the pool faster - makes a bit more combustion noise, as well.
From experience I can tell you that the regulator used on your heater is garbage. I replace many of them a year because they fail. Contractors use them as they are cheap and you get what you pay for. Those are best used on items like gas stoves, dryers, etc. Sensus regulators are the only ones to use for the best performance and quality.
 
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JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
28,262
it was $562.50 ... about an hour's work.
For the amount that was paid, you would expect a better quality regulator and you would expect that the technician would verify the performance before they left.

Sensus regulators are the only ones to use for the best performance and quality.
What is a fair price for the right parts and labor for this job?
 

ps0303

TFP Expert
In The Industry
Jul 6, 2011
4,128
FL
For the amount that was paid, you would expect a better quality regulator and you would expect that the technician would verify the performance before they left.


What is a fair price for the right parts and labor for this job?
Prices vary based upon availability and location. That regulator used in the picture is about a $40 part in my neck of the woods. The Sensus is double that.
 
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JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
28,262
I would at least ask the service technician to check the pressure and make sure that it is not too high coming out of the regulator.

And they should check the pressure drop from static to dynamic.

They should do this for no extra money.

They have already been paid enough to get this right the first time.
 

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