Looking for bearing and seal kit for Pentair LA01N Booster Pump

BlueBaron

Bronze Supporter
Aug 27, 2020
73
Orinda, California
Hi, my bearings are shot in my booster pump (Pentair LA01N) and I want to replace them (and any of the seals along the way). Does anyone know who sells a good bearing/seal replacement kit? Ideally the kit would include a bearing puller and a bearing/seal installer. Thanks!
 

BowserB

Silver Supporter
Jul 29, 2018
657
"Old" Katy, TX
Pool Size
15000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
How old is that booster pump? Mine sounds like failed bearing and it's just out of its three year warranty. Since it was put in for a pressure side cleaner, and I've switched to a robot, the pump is never used, other than to blow out stagnant water, but still it's a disappointing life for a big name product (although Pentair didn't even think enough of it to paint it Pentair Tan.)
 

1poolman1

In The Industry
Jul 14, 2014
205
Sacramento
Hi, my bearings are shot in my booster pump (Pentair LA01N) and I want to replace them (and any of the seals along the way). Does anyone know who sells a good bearing/seal replacement kit? Ideally the kit would include a bearing puller and a bearing/seal installer. Thanks!
If you are patient and have some experience at taking a motor apart, give it a shot. Just be aware that, in my experience, booster pumps seem to have a greater tendency to more problems than other motors after bearing replacements for some reason. Seeing that you are in PG&E country, you would be better off getting a Pentair BoostRite or Polaris PB4SQ pump. You will also get a new hose kit. Both use about half the energy that a standard booster pump uses (actual meter readings by me). If you are still determined, again, give it a shot.

Before buying parts, be sure you can actually take the motor apart. The long through-bolts that hold the motor together have a great tendency to break off at the front end bell. If they break, buy a new motor, or better yet, new booster pump. Also, check the impeller at the seal-cup for heat damage. If it is even slightly warped the seal will leak and ruin new bearings or a new motor. If the portion of the sealplate the seal presses into is damaged/warped, the seal will leak with the same issue. There are too many things that can go wrong and that is why most pool repair techs, including me, won't work on them any more. New pumps are much more cost effective for the customer in the long run.

The motor uses #203 bearings (replace them both). The pump uses a PS1000 seal (US Seal number). I have never seen a kit that would include the parts/tools you need to do the job. You would also need the volute "O" ring.

A 1" PVC coupler is great for installing the bellows portion of a PS1000 seal. Put a small amount of silicone sealant around the stainless-steel portion and push it into the sealplate. Doesn't take much pressure, maybe a light tap with a hammer, just make sure it is seated completely. If it is loose, the sealplate is damaged and needs to be replaced, they can't be repaired.

You can get a decent puller at Harbor Freight that would suffice for a one-time job. Make sure it is long enough to reach the front bearing, A piece of 3/4" PVC pipe cut square can be used to drive the bearing onto the shaft, just make sure to only push on the interior race (ring that goes on the shaft) or you will damage the bearing before you get done. Light hammer taps on the pipe work best.
 
  • Like
Reactions: BlueBaron

BlueBaron

Bronze Supporter
Aug 27, 2020
73
Orinda, California
How old is that booster pump? Mine sounds like failed bearing and it's just out of its three year warranty. Since it was put in for a pressure side cleaner, and I've switched to a robot, the pump is never used, other than to blow out stagnant water, but still it's a disappointing life for a big name product (although Pentair didn't even think enough of it to paint it Pentair Tan.)
Its only two years old.
 

BlueBaron

Bronze Supporter
Aug 27, 2020
73
Orinda, California
How old is that booster pump? Mine sounds like failed bearing and it's just out of its three year warranty. Since it was put in for a pressure side cleaner, and I've switched to a robot, the pump is never used, other than to blow out stagnant water, but still it's a disappointing life for a big name product (although Pentair didn't even think enough of it to paint it Pentair Tan.)
Its 2 years old.
 

BlueBaron

Bronze Supporter
Aug 27, 2020
73
Orinda, California
If you are patient and have some experience at taking a motor apart, give it a shot. Just be aware that, in my experience, booster pumps seem to have a greater tendency to more problems than other motors after bearing replacements for some reason. Seeing that you are in PG&E country, you would be better off getting a Pentair BoostRite or Polaris PB4SQ pump. You will also get a new hose kit. Both use about half the energy that a standard booster pump uses (actual meter readings by me). If you are still determined, again, give it a shot.

Before buying parts, be sure you can actually take the motor apart. The long through-bolts that hold the motor together have a great tendency to break off at the front end bell. If they break, buy a new motor, or better yet, new booster pump. Also, check the impeller at the seal-cup for heat damage. If it is even slightly warped the seal will leak and ruin new bearings or a new motor. If the portion of the sealplate the seal presses into is damaged/warped, the seal will leak with the same issue. There are too many things that can go wrong and that is why most pool repair techs, including me, won't work on them any more. New pumps are much more cost effective for the customer in the long run.

The motor uses #203 bearings (replace them both). The pump uses a PS1000 seal (US Seal number). I have never seen a kit that would include the parts/tools you need to do the job. You would also need the volute "O" ring.

A 1" PVC coupler is great for installing the bellows portion of a PS1000 seal. Put a small amount of silicone sealant around the stainless-steel portion and push it into the sealplate. Doesn't take much pressure, maybe a light tap with a hammer, just make sure it is seated completely. If it is loose, the sealplate is damaged and needs to be replaced, they can't be repaired.

You can get a decent puller at Harbor Freight that would suffice for a one-time job. Make sure it is long enough to reach the front bearing, A piece of 3/4" PVC pipe cut square can be used to drive the bearing onto the shaft, just make sure to only push on the interior race (ring that goes on the shaft) or you will damage the bearing before you get done. Light hammer taps on the pipe work best.
This is super helpful. Thank you so much. I am going to think about this a bit more and will let you know what I do.
 

BlueBaron

Bronze Supporter
Aug 27, 2020
73
Orinda, California
This is super helpful. Thank you so much. I am going to think about this a bit more and will let you know what I do.
I actually purchased a bearing and seal kit from a guy in Long Island. I purchased the kit before I saw your response. So, I am going to give it a try. I really appreciate your detailed response on "how to". I will let you know. In the meantime, I think my bearings became shot because a power outage caused my pentair intelliflo to run at a different time than my booster pump (which was controlled by a separate intermatic timer). I wish they were in sync so that the booster pump could not run without the pool pump. Is there a way to do this? Please let me know what you think.
 

1poolman1

In The Industry
Jul 14, 2014
205
Sacramento
This is super helpful. Thank you so much. I am going to think about this a bit more and will let you know what I do.
With separate timers as you have there is no commercially available system that will give the protection you need. Years ago I made up a couple of systems that would do that. Tried to get them marketed, but the liability (and cost of insurance) a manufacturer takes on when you sell something that protects another piece of equipment was too much for a small business like me. That's why, as I have been told by reps, even the big manufacturers won't do it.

If you don't have automation, it might be worth it as they will do what you need. Even after a power outage the programming will remain and the booster won't come on unless the main pump is on if programmed correctly. There are a couple of Pentair systems that will do the job, communicate with your pump, and control your solar. No, I don't rep Pentair and am not really a big fan, but they work.
 
  • Like
Reactions: BlueBaron

BlueBaron

Bronze Supporter
Aug 27, 2020
73
Orinda, California
If you are patient and have some experience at taking a motor apart, give it a shot. Just be aware that, in my experience, booster pumps seem to have a greater tendency to more problems than other motors after bearing replacements for some reason. Seeing that you are in PG&E country, you would be better off getting a Pentair BoostRite or Polaris PB4SQ pump. You will also get a new hose kit. Both use about half the energy that a standard booster pump uses (actual meter readings by me). If you are still determined, again, give it a shot.

Before buying parts, be sure you can actually take the motor apart. The long through-bolts that hold the motor together have a great tendency to break off at the front end bell. If they break, buy a new motor, or better yet, new booster pump. Also, check the impeller at the seal-cup for heat damage. If it is even slightly warped the seal will leak and ruin new bearings or a new motor. If the portion of the sealplate the seal presses into is damaged/warped, the seal will leak with the same issue. There are too many things that can go wrong and that is why most pool repair techs, including me, won't work on them any more. New pumps are much more cost effective for the customer in the long run.

The motor uses #203 bearings (replace them both). The pump uses a PS1000 seal (US Seal number). I have never seen a kit that would include the parts/tools you need to do the job. You would also need the volute "O" ring.

A 1" PVC coupler is great for installing the bellows portion of a PS1000 seal. Put a small amount of silicone sealant around the stainless-steel portion and push it into the sealplate. Doesn't take much pressure, maybe a light tap with a hammer, just make sure it is seated completely. If it is loose, the sealplate is damaged and needs to be replaced, they can't be repaired.

You can get a decent puller at Harbor Freight that would suffice for a one-time job. Make sure it is long enough to reach the front bearing, A piece of 3/4" PVC pipe cut square can be used to drive the bearing onto the shaft, just make sure to only push on the interior race (ring that goes on the shaft) or you will damage the bearing before you get done. Light hammer taps on the pipe work best.
How right you were. You said "make sure you can get the motor apart". I could not. Two of the bolts that hold the motor stand onto the motor broke off. They had clearly been overtightened on original assembly. Thanks for your help.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thread Status
Hello , This is an inactive thread. Any new postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. You will get much more visibility by Starting A New Thread