I know that there are many threads about the Aqua Logic K1 relay but I seem to be getting a possibly different issue. I have a reading on my chlorinator of 40.62V (both polarities), 10.04 A, and 1800 ppm when I run the diagnostics. I heard from everyone else that looking at the back of the board and resoldering would fix the issue. After looking at the board and re-soldering the pin, I still am getting the exact same voltage and amp readings. A couple re solders later and replacing the 20A fuse with a 15A fuse and it is still not working. I am posting this after just seeing this again. One thing I have not tried is leaving it and waiting a couple hours, is this part of the solution? I usually solder it, re-enable it, and before the filter is turned on I get a reading of "Very low salt," then a minute after the filter is turned on, the chlorinator turns on and the check system light turns off, but not for more than a minute before it starts reading "High Salt/Amp" and the chlorinator is off and the check system light is back on. Is this something that will fix with time? It felt like a ridiculously easy solder job I don't think I made a mistake there and the fuse is still in good condition.
Some extra info:
It seems that when this system was first installed the pump was wired backwards, when the filter displays high, the pump is working in low mode, but when the filter displays low, the pump is working harder in high mode. This may affect the reading of the chlorinator?
The actual salt level from both a pool shop test and test strip seems to be around 2800 - 3000 ppm
Desperately need help.
Some extra info:
It seems that when this system was first installed the pump was wired backwards, when the filter displays high, the pump is working in low mode, but when the filter displays low, the pump is working harder in high mode. This may affect the reading of the chlorinator?
The actual salt level from both a pool shop test and test strip seems to be around 2800 - 3000 ppm
Desperately need help.
