Just took over a new pool! Some questions...

[Cserrah]

Hi Everyone,

I just bought a house with a saltwater pool and luckily found TFP right in time! Have been trying to absorb all the information ever since. I dont think old owners really knew much and they relied on a pool company that treated things more like a regular chlorine pool. I have a few questions that I'm hoping someone can offer guidance on.

1. Saltwater generator is Jandy Aquapure EI 350PLG. Dealing with conflicting information. In the manufacturer manual they recommend certain levels of chemicals that differ than what we aim for here with the chlorine CYA/chart. Manufacturer says keep CYA 30-50 and FC at 1-3ppm (continuous exposure to levels above 3.9 may cause corrosion of pool metals. With TFP we are looking more at CYA 70-80 and PPM 5-6 according to the chart. Who do I follow?

2. How can I be sure the saltwater generator is working properly? At first it was having a "no flow" issue. I had pool person come consult with me, who claimed I had no chlorine and threw in some granules, and suggested I buy a new SWG from them. After DIY cleaning the SWG filter and flow switch it seems to be working now and there is no error message, but how can I be sure its not faulty?

3. If it is faulty what levels should I keep my pool at until I sort out the SWG? revert to chlorine pool numbers?

4. I've heard multiple people refer to "backwashing" and cleaning filter. I could not figure out what backwashing refers to or how to do it. Anyone care to enlighten?

FYI here are the numbers from first TF test kits:
FC 2.5ppm
CC 0
pH 7.8
CYA 45
TA 80
CH 225
Salt 2600

For my first additions, I added enough salt to reach 4000ppm (per manufacturer) and some chlorine to reach 6ppm. Let hope thats off to a good start!
Any suggestions welcome!

 

[Texas Splash]

Welcome to TFP! Or should I say "Hafa Adai "! For your questions:
1 - Many industry recommendations do not take into account today's FC/CYA relationship ratio, locations, heat, sunlight, etc. We recommend a higher CYA to preserve the FC created by the SWG and help extend SWG cell life.
2 - Not sure if there's a specific test you can do on the SWG itself (others may know), but it's always best to use your TF-100 tes kit to monitor FC production levels each day. If/when it crashes, you know something may be wrong with the SWG. If you odn't have a Taylor K-1766 salt kit, you might want that as well.
3 - When SWGs go back, simply manage the water like a non-SWG pool as noted on the FC/CYA Levels.
4 - Backwashing applies to pools with sand or DE filters that have a multport valve. If you have a cartridge filter, you won't be ablt to backwash. Make sure to update yoru signature with all of your pool and equipment ifo so we can see what you have there.

You should increase the CYA a bit more (to 70). You did good to pump-up the FC level. Watch that closely for a while to ensure your SWG is working okay and to avoid algae. Gets a bit muggy in Guam. Andersen was my first assignment in '84.

 

[Cserrah]

Welcome to TFP! Or should I say "Hafa Adai "! For your questions:
1 - Many industry recommendations do not take into account today's FC/CYA relationship ratio, locations, heat, sunlight, etc. We recommend a higher CYA to preserve the FC created by the SWG and help extend SWG cell life.
2 - Not sure if there's a specific test you can do on the SWG itself (others may know), but it's always best to use your TF-100 tes kit to monitor FC production levels each day. If/when it crashes, you know something may be wrong with the SWG. If you odn't have a Taylor K-1766 salt kit, you might want that as well.
3 - When SWGs go back, simply manage the water like a non-SWG pool as noted on the FC/CYA Levels.
4 - Backwashing applies to pools with sand or DE filters that have a multport valve. If you have a cartridge filter, you won't be ablt to backwash. Make sure to update yoru signature with all of your pool and equipment ifo so we can see what you have there.

You should increase the CYA a bit more (to 70). You did good to pump-up the FC level. Watch that closely for a while to ensure your SWG is working okay and to avoid algae. Gets a bit muggy in Guam. Andersen was my first assignment in '84.

Thank you so much for your reply! Hafa Adai and cool to see that you know where Guam is and have even been there lol.
I updated my signature, and since I have a cartridge I now know that backwash does not apply here.

I am a little worried that I bring CYA up to 70 only to discover the SWG is not working. It would be difficult to lower CYA back down, and the Chlorine/CYA chart doesn't recommend 60 and up for non-SWG. Is this a valid concern?

I'm guessing if the SWG doesnt work the FC levels would fall rapidly without manual addition. If anyone else chime in on a more scientific way to check that would be great!

 

[Texas Splash]

I am a little worried that I bring CYA up to 70 only to discover the SWG is not working. It would be difficult to lower CYA back down, and the Chlorine/CYA chart doesn't recommend 60 and up for non-SWG. Is this a valid concern?

Yes, that is understandable. If you elect to keep the CYA at 50 or so, just understand you may need to ramp-up the SWG a bit to keep-up with the sun that is constantly trying to burn-off the FC. If you do ever go manual, you can still have a CYA over 50. The asterisk shows as not recommended, but some of us manual pools in hotter locations find a slightly elevated CYA works better anyways. They key is to keep the FC balanced to that CYA if you do go higher as noted on that chart.

 

[Jimrahbe]

C,

Here is one way to test your pool and then test to see if the cell is working...

1. Perform a normal Overnight Chlorine Loss Test or OCLT... Overnight Chlorine Loss Test This will tell you if you have an algae problem even if you can't see it yet. Algae can quickly consume the FC that a SWCG can generate and make the SWCG look bad... Note.. You run this test with the SWCG off....

2. Assuming you pass the OCLT, run it again the next night, only this time with the SWCG on.. The increase in your overnight FC level is that amount of chlorine your cell is making.. I've done this several times and it is pretty accurate.

I have passed through Guam many times, going and coming from SEA about a million years ago..

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[aeh0603]

4. I've heard multiple people refer to "backwashing" and cleaning filter. I could not figure out what backwashing refers to or how to do it. Anyone care to enlighten?

I updated my signature, and since I have a cartridge I now know that backwash does not apply here.

You are correct that backwashing does not apply to a cartridge filter, but you will still need to clean it when the filter pressure rises 25% above the clean pressure. Do you know how to clean your cartridge filter?

 

[ajw22]

Maintenance and Cleaning of Pool Filters

Maintaining your swimming pool filter system is important. Learn how to clean and maintain your pool filter at low cost & enjoy a Trouble Free Pool.

www.troublefreepool.com

Cartridge Filter Use and Care - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Cserrah]

Thanks everyone for all th

C,

Here is one way to test your pool and then test to see if the cell is working...

1. Perform a normal Overnight Chlorine Loss Test or OCLT... Overnight Chlorine Loss Test This will tell you if you have an algae problem even if you can't see it yet. Algae can quickly consume the FC that a SWCG can generate and make the SWCG look bad... Note.. You run this test with the SWCG off....

2. Assuming you pass the OCLT, run it again the next night, only this time with the SWCG on.. The increase in your overnight FC level is that amount of chlorine your cell is making.. I've done this several times and it is pretty accurate.

I have passed through Guam many times, going and coming from SEA about a million years ago..

Thanks,

Jim R.

Hafa Adai!
Thank you for the suggestion I will give the OCLT a try. During this test should be main pump be running as well? Also for the OCLT test with SWG is running 100% overnight we are just looking or an FC increase compared to the previous OCLT correct?

Thanks to everyone for all the great resources!

 

[Jimrahbe]

For the best result the main pool pump should always be working when running the OCLT..

The SWCG won't work unless the pump is on... Running at 100% gives you the most chlorine.. Just like with a normal OCLT you are looking for the difference in your FC test from when you start just after dark to when you stop the test just before sunrise. With a regular OCLT you are looking for how much FC you have lost (Hopefully none, but it will not go up)... With the SWCG test you should see an increase in your FC between the just after dark test and the just before sunrise test.

Thanks,

Jim R.