Just got TF-100, something not right

[MITBeta]

Something I didn't see mentioned anywhere above is to make sure the reagent bottles are completely vertical when dispensing drops. The drops should fall as naturally as possible by virtue of their weight overcoming the surface tension.

 

[ea3421]

Ok - I think I got it. Some combo of holding the droppers vertically, wipe with a damp cloth, etc must have done it.

FC 12
PH 8.2
TA 110
CH 500
CYA 30
SALT 3600
CSI 0.83
TEMP 86F

When I vacuum the pool, I notice the dolphin vac picks up a lot of white powder, and when I turn on the pump, some white stuff shoots out of the returns. Otherwise, the water is clear.

Right now I have the pool pump running 24x7 and intellichlor set to 60%. I am waiting for the pool technician to install an automation system so I can run the pump less (July 15). I also bought a flow meter to figure out how much to run the pump. I just added 36oz of muriatic acid as per the pool math app to lower PH.

Any other suggestions to get chemistry more inline? Thank you!

 

[mknauss]

The white stuff is scale from the SWCG. You need to get your CSI to below 0. Between 0 and -0.3 is best.

Lower your pH to 7.2. Test pH every couple days and lower it to 7.2. The TA will come down and then let your pH ride in the 7's once your CSI is lower. The CH, is that from fill water?

You do not need a flow meter to see how long to run the pump. Run the pump long enough to create the chlorine you need each day. If you want to skim the surface more, run the pump longer.

 

[ea3421]

I'm not sure if the CH is from fill water. I don't think so -- when I started this year, leslies made me add a bunch of stuff (I didn't understand anything then, maybe a little more now ), and calcium was added. I guess too much was added....

 

[mknauss]

If you could fill out your signature that would really help us help you.

You will drain for winter and that should reduce the CH. Depending on pool type, there is no need for more than 300 ppm CH.

 

[ea3421]

Apologies - I just figured out how to add a signature. Should be there now?

Will this level of CH cause problems? I've had pool guys taking care of my pool for the past few years since I bought the house -- they never emptied the pool for the winter. Not sure if that's normal - I'm still learning.

 

[CraigChing]

You don’t empty it, but drain it to below the returns, right? That’s what Marty means.

 

[ea3421]

You don’t empty it, but drain it to below the returns, right? That’s what Marty means.

Yes I think they drain it below the returns.

 

[JimMarshall]

Apologies - I just figured out how to add a signature. Should be there now?

Will this level of CH cause problems? I've had pool guys taking care of my pool for the past few years since I bought the house -- they never emptied the pool for the winter. Not sure if that's normal - I'm still learning.

The higher the CH the more work you have to do to avoid scale - the white flakes you’re referring to. There are members that manage with a number much higher than that.

it will come down on its own with splash out, rain, and draining down for winter!

 

[chubrok]

Not yet on the video. Confirm that you are wiping the dropper tip with a damp cloth between each drop.

What is the purpose of wiping the dropper tip with the damp cloth for this test? I've always done it because instructions say to... but have always wondered why?

 

[duraleigh]

You can stop. When the R-0009 reagent (and that's the ONLY one) is brand new. The reagent will "Jump" off the dropper tip (from static) rather than fall resulting in too many small drops and an inaccurate test result.

Nearly as we can tell, it only lasts about a week or ten days and then will form normal drops