Just got a new SWG--Aqua Rite 900. It was a "surprise"

C0d3Sp4c3

Well-known member
Dec 10, 2018
209
Inland Empire, CA
Pool Size
20000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
My controller has a standard 3-prong plug and there's an outlet by the breaker box, so I'm not sure how I could wire it directly to the pump timer, but I'm sure that outlet could be rewired to be controlled by the proper breaker.
Pardon my intrusions but if I were you, I would not promote possible electrical code violations by disturbing that service outlet.
I have no doubt, your swcg is wired for 120vac operation. The poor man's solution is to get a heavy-duty outdoor digital timer for less than $20 like this one. Mine is on its 5th yr and still going strong. Syncing the digital timer with your pump run time is more precise compared to the mechanical timer with trippers. I have mine set to power on the swcg 5 mins after the pump started and off 5 mins before the pump shuts off.
And for safety reasons, you need to make sure that the flow switch was installed correctly and functioning properly. You'll get a lot of hits on how to do just that by searching this forum.
 

DAB942

Gold Supporter
Nov 13, 2017
579
Space Coast, FL
Th
If I have the pump turn off for a few hours that won't affect the SWG right? It'll just not run because there's no water going through it, that's how I understand it, am I wrong?
They have a flow switch that shuts off the cell when no water is flowing. However, most will recommend cutting the power altogether in one form or fashion, in case the switch fails.
 

Saturn94

Bronze Supporter
Mar 11, 2015
1,289
SE Virginia
Pool Size
20000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
The cell is set correctly. I have an Intermatic timer on my pump. But the outlet that is next to the outside breaker box is not wired to the breaker that the timer controls. I would love to have that outlet moved over to be controlled by the same breaker. I'm not an electrician, and just to get one out and do that 5-minute job would likely cost $150. I may do that in the future probably when other electrical work is needed, but I can buy a digital programmable outlet timer for $9 plus tax on Amazon. So the cheap fix will be separate timers for the pump and SWG, I will just make sure the SWG's timer is set to turn off prior to the pump turning off, and turn back on after the pump comes on.

My controller has a standard 3-prong plug and there's an outlet by the breaker box, so I'm not sure how I could wire it directly to the pump timer, but I'm sure that outlet could be rewired to be controlled by the proper breaker.

Running a separate timer for the SWCG should be fine. People with variable speed pumps, which require power all the time for the internal controls, often put the SWCG on a separate timer to assure the SWCG power is off while the pump isn’t circulating.
 

Tyrone Shuz

LifeTime Supporter
Jun 2, 2007
98
Bowie, MD
Lowered my pool's water 6" and replaced. Salt drop test (Taylor K1766) reading did not change. With an average depth of roughly 60", it should have gone down 10% but it still reads 4000. It DID go down on the machine though, it's now reading 2800 for avg salt and -2900 on the immediate salt reading.

my TA is 100 and my ph is 7.8. It says on this site that it's really important to lower the TA to 60 to 80. So I guess I'm lowering pH to 7.2 and aerating.

And I should probably add CYA (or liquid) after losing 6" but the FC seemed to be staying in the pool even at 55-60 (it's probably lower now with the new water so I'm going to put more in)

50% on the SWG seems to keep the pool around 8-9ppm so I lowered it to 40% and this AM was 5.5. Where do you all keep the % on your units?
 

laprjns

LifeTime Supporter
Aug 14, 2012
519
Ellington, CT
Pool Size
30000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pureline Crystal Pure 60,000
Lowered my pool's water 6" and replaced. Salt drop test (Taylor K1766) reading did not change. With an average depth of roughly 60", it should have gone down 10% but it still reads 4000.
Are you mistakenly using a 25ml sample for the test? It should be 10ml. Lots of people, including me have misread the instructions and used 25 ml.
 

wireform

Silver Supporter
In The Industry
Aug 15, 2017
3,116
Spring Valley, NY
Are you mistakenly using a 25ml sample for the test? It should be 10ml. Lots of people, including me have misread the instructions and used 25 ml.
I have that same problem once in a while since I only check the CYA every 3-4 weeks. What I did the last time it got me was HIGHLIGHTED the 10ml and that stands out at you when you look at the instructions. I actually wrote Taylor comment about it but never got a response.
 

Tyrone Shuz

LifeTime Supporter
Jun 2, 2007
98
Bowie, MD
Are you mistakenly using a 25ml sample for the test? It should be 10ml. Lots of people, including me have misread the instructions and used 25 ml.

That is a mistake that I would make, I feel exposed...but no, it's a 10ml test, and I got that right. The only test that I do that's 25 is the TA. With a vinyl pool I never test for calcium though I did earlier this year because I went to Cal Hypo as bleach was incredibly hard to find (still is).

I added dry acid my pool is 7.2 and I started a fountain w/a sump pump. After a day it's risen some, and my TA is 90 or 100 depending on how you read the drops, so I believe I need to let the pH rise again, then drop it once more, and then more fountain. My water looks and feels great right now, and did even when the readings were off.

I still need to reset the avg salt on the machine though--every time the unit spends a few hours not powered on the check salt and inspect cell lights are on, but they go off if I reset the avg salt.
 
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