jandy plc700 replacement options - new homeowner

fc01

New member
Jun 9, 2020
4
orlando
1st post. Great message board! I've tried to read up as a first time pool owner. Pool is 7yr old with full Jandy automation + Caretaker system. Salt is 3100 and water is balanced. I use the Taylor test kit hand have had to buffer up FC with 10% bleach. Service error codes alternate between 125+194 and 123. SWG otherwise has green lights for cell on, flow, cell reversing. Prior owner last had SWG acid cleaned in April. I just did it again myself. I've attached before-acid pictures. There was only some bubbling during acid treatment. Note the corrosion on the inside of the electrical post. Cell serial is "F12G_" so I take that as 2012 manufacture.

This SWG only has 2 electrical post connectors: middle and right, with left slot being empty. The right post had corrosion on the outside and inside of the cell, with much more on the inside. I did not unscrew the cap from the top of cell to examine further. The plates look clean and fine. I shut off the breakers and injected a baking powder solution into the cable-side female connector, and let it sit overnight. The outside of the right electrical post cleaned off easily. I sprayed the male and female with PBBlaster after rinsing out the baking powder, and used a q-tip to clean out the female. No improvement.

Questions:
1) Can I try to salvage the cell by working on the inner corroded contact? What is the best method?
2) Pool is ~12.5k gallon. Cell is rated for about that. Cell was running at 75% during home inspection in March. Now pinned to 100%. Should I stick with plc700 (vs 1400)?
3) Is there a trusted generic replacement for the plc700? Will the automation (Aqualink RS & PDA) lose function by not sticking with Jandy cell?
4) Is buying from an authorized dealer to get the 1yr warranty worth paying 2x the 3rd party website with the same plc700 part? Any particular 3rd party website you'd recommend for price or reliability?

Thanks for reading/replying and for any other tips I may have not considered.
 

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ajw22

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 21, 2013
24,960
Northern NJ
Pool Size
35000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Note that every time you acid wash the cell you remove some of the coating on the plates and reduce its life. You should only acid wash when that is the only way to remove the scale.

We recommend the SWG cell be 2X your pool volume. As such your PLC700 is undersized rated for 12,000 gallons in your 12,500 gallon pool. Get the PLC1400 rated for 40,000 gallons.

8 years is a great life from the cell. Time for a new one.

You get what you pay for with cells. The clone cells generally have thinner plates and coatings and don't last as long.


Note that the center prong is on the cell where the power cord connects to the cell. This issue is with the trisensor, which is a separate part that installs in the cell.

It's usually cheaper to buy the Aquapure 1400 cell kit that comes with the cell, trisensor and power cord vs. buying the parts separately.

If the cell is old, just get the PLC1400 kit.
 

fc01

New member
Jun 9, 2020
4
orlando
Would upgrading from plc700 to plc1400 require any other hardware or software changes to maintain complete compatibility e.g. on Aqualink RS or PDA?
 

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
24,159
Jandy_AquaPure_Cell_Configuration.png


The 700 has the jumper cut. You would have to restore the jumper.
 

fc01

New member
Jun 9, 2020
4
orlando
Thanks! What would be the best way to restore that jumper connection? I don't have a soldering tool.

Separately, a new cell comes with 2 new unions and nuts. Is the union a slip fit to the PVC piping? Do I cut the old union off with a safety knife, then use some water based lube to get the new one on, or is there a better way (e.g. reuse the old coupling and just change the o-ring)?
 
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