Jandy error code 175 and 182

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Paul in NY

Member
Aug 24, 2020
13
New York
Hello there, I'm getting Service error code 175 and 182 on my Jandy Aqualink system. I have a the Jandy Aquapure PLC 1400 cell which is new as of this season. When i installed the new SWG I kept using the existing try-sensor as it worked fine, and the pool has been running that way for several months. I started getting error code 175 and 182 more than a week ago and I tried cleaning the sensor with a green scotch bright pad but no luck. Figuring the sensor was bad (I've replaced these several times already), I then installed the new tri-sensor which came with the PLC1400 unit. To my surprise, the new sensor made no difference and I still get the same error codes. The flow indicator is on but the cell is not. I tested the pool water manually so I know the salt level is 2800. When I look at the computer readout of the salt level, sometimes its 0 and sometimes its "12750". I would appreciate any advice on troubleshooting this further.

thank you.
Paul
 
Sorry, one more thing I forgot to mention, this problem *may* have started after Tropical Storm Isiasis. We have a standby generator for our house, however this comes on only after 7 seconds without power from the street. When Isiasis hit us we lost power multiple times in short bursts, but not enough to trigger the generator. So the power flickered on and off several times before actually going out, at which time the generator kicked in. Problem is that when we lost power we also lost internet service, so really wasn't monitoring the pool until power and internet were restored (5 days later). I noticed the salt reading on the computer was unusually low (2000) which I knew was not correct. Within a couple of days it was 0 and the cell has been producing no chlorine since, with the Service indicator on and error codes 175 and 182 being reported.
 
What is the Software number on the CPU?

If it’s 02110A10 or 01220A15, you use program A, otherwise you use program B on the in-line module on the trisensor cord. Don’t use the little adaptor card between the cord plug and the circuit board.

If that doesn’t work, here is a test you can do.

Disconnect the flow salinity temp sensor from the board.

Press and hold the test buttons marked salinity and R-temp. While still pressing the test buttons press the ‘Salinity’ key (‘C’) on the front cover of the unit. The LCD should read 2.8 gpl*.

While still holding the two front board test buttons press the ‘Pool Temperature’ key (‘D’). It should read 75° F or 24° C.

Next, press and hold the board ‘H-Temp’ test button, and at the same time press the ‘Salinity’ key (‘C’) together with the ‘Chlorine Production Rate’ arrow down key (‘A’) on the front cover of the unit. The LCD should read 91° F or 33° C .

If the readings are correct then the board is O.K. and the problem is with the flow sensor. On the other hand if the readings are different then it indicates that there is a problem with the board.
 
ok I ran the tests as you suggested, and for 'Pool Temperature' + R-temp I got 74, for H-Temp + Salinity + Chlorine Production Rate I got 91, however for Salinity + Salinity I got "- -". Does that mean the board itself is no good, or are there further tests I should perform to isolate the problem?
thanks.
Paul
 
Press and hold the test buttons marked salinity and R-temp. While still pressing the test buttons press the ‘Salinity’ key (‘C’) on the front cover of the unit. The LCD should read 2.8 gpl*.

Did you press all 3 buttons at the same time?

If yes and the salinity does not read 2.8, the board is probably bad.

Note: The salinity might read slightly higher or lower if the salinity has been calibrated. It should read between 2.4 and 3.2.
 

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Hi James, I'm happy to say that I received the new board and installed it and now the system seems to be reading salt and temp correctly, and the salt cell functioning as expected. So thank you for your assistance in figuring out what the problem was, and how to to resolve. Only problem now is that for some reason I can no longer connect to iAqualink online to control the pool. I have a wired connection, and I can see the iAqualink device on my network (MAC address) however the website and mobile app indicate that my system is offline. Any ideas how to fix that?
thanks.
Paul
 
yes, I double checked the wiring and all looks correct. Also keep in mind that none of that wiring should have changed plus I know that the Aqualink is on my network because I can see it registered through my router and it has an IP address. It seems like an issue with Jandy just not recognizing the same device anymore.

Paul
 
Hi James, I have gone through everything very carefully now, to ensure that all the wires are clean and properly connected. From the antennae its only one single 4 pin connector, which is correctly connected. I have also done a system reset, but it made no difference. In addition, just to check, I put the old board back in and it was now reading salt (albeit incorrectly at 2100) but still, even with the old board, I could not connect to the system remotely from computer or phone. As I mentioned above I have a wired connection and I can see the device on my home network, but the status remains offline. This is all very strange, as the remote connection was working fine before I switched out the board, and I didn't do anything stupid like leave the power on while replacing the board. And besides the remote connection not working, all the equipment is now running fine, the cell is on, its producing chlorine, and the salinity and temp readings are correct. Do you have any other ideas or suggestions for me to troubleshoot why the system remains offline?
 

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