Jandy AquaPure & PLC1400, No Flow

Hagefamily

Well-known member
Jun 4, 2012
57
I'm really hoping to find a solution to have this SWG last one more season because my budget is very tight with this whole pandemic situation. This SWG is over 5 years old at this point...but never had a problem yet. Yes, I know they usually don't last beyond 3-4 years but please read on.

Everyone on this forum is always so knowledgeable and helpful. I appreciate the help!

The Situation:
- Currently SLAMming the pool.
- Water is crystal clear now but have to run the overnight test to be certain
- Jandy AquaPure panel was stuck saying "Wait" until I added 2 bags of salt in this year.
- After spreading the salt to get it dissolved & letting it circulate over night, I turned off the system & turned it back on.
- AquaPure seems to be indicating system was working for about 2 minutes. 0% Chlorine (because I turned it off before SLAMming), 3.1 salinity, 77 degree temp.
- About 2 minutes later, the AquaPure panel says "No Flow". Haven't been able to fix it yet.

What I've checked so far:
- Skimmers & Pump basket are cleaned out.
- The Jandy Pump has zero air bubbles when it starts up.
- Filter PSI shows about 7/Clean. I am using brand new Pleatco filters & the new white manifold with a different design (small holes instead of that extra tube/filter).
- Shut off whole system at the outside breaker & reset (a couple of times).
- Looked at the SWG sensor (they still look shiny/silver like new)
- Have NOT disconnected to looked inside the cell itself yet.
- Opened up the AquaPure panel, disconnected & reconnected the sensor wire.
- Unplugged/Plugged in the 3 prong power to the SWG a couple of times.
- Ran the Jandy Firmware Check: 01 22 0A 15
- Following Jandy Instructions (https://www.jandy.com/-/media/zodiac/global/downloads/h/h0325600.pdf?force=1)
- Noticed my interface module says "PGM B". NOTE: The picture (from today) attached shows the Green "Sensor Flow" light on but I haven't been able to get it on since.
- Per Jandy instructions, "If the power interface board firmware is 02110A10 or 01220A15 as determined in Section B, 'PGM A' should be lit"
- Powered off system and on system, held SEL button on power interface for 5 seconds switched to PGM A.
- If I turn off/on the system, I'll see it sometimes start with PGM B and switch to PGM A or vice versa. Can't get the Sensor Flow light to turn on.

At this point, I'm thinking it's the SWG sensor or related because the AquaPure control box seems to be working, showing salinity, showing water temperature, and not spitting out any error codes.

I'm attaching some pictures because it may help!

Thank you for taking the time to try to help out a guy who just wants to keep the pool working for his wife & kids this summer while saving as much $$$ to get through this pandemic!!!!
ProgramB.jpgControl Board.jpgNoFlow.jpg
 

Hagefamily

Well-known member
Jun 4, 2012
57
Can you post a pic of your entire equipment pad? It seems like your flow sensor might be bad though.
Also, new info: The Sensor Indicator Module image above shows Green for Sensor Flow but it's actually Blinking On/Off today. That's new/different than what I've seen before. Main panel still shows "No Flow" and no error messages.
 

PoolGate

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jun 7, 2017
4,694
Damascus, MD
Is your system running in that picture? If so, your filter pressure is very low. Low enough that I don't think it is enough pressure to close the SWG flow switch.
 

Hagefamily

Well-known member
Jun 4, 2012
57
Update: Today I emptied all the skimmers and pump basket as usual. Cleaned the 4 Pleatco Cartridge filters & new manifold (picture attached). PSI still sitting around 7psi, waterfall and the water jets in the pool all are pushing water strong.

Now, I turn on the system and the Sensor Module Indicator lights either PGM A or PGM B for a minute then goes off. No lights at all. At the same time, the AquaPure panel is stuck on "Wait" and I can't select any buttons (Temp, Salinity, or Up/Down)---just locked up like when I started having this issue. Tried shutting off the power (even at the main outside breaker) a few times. Still the same.

Is there anyway to know if the SWG Cell/Sensor Module Indicator is fried vs. the actual AquaPure panel? I'd rather not order one only to find out that it was the other one (OR BOTH) that have to be replaced.
Manifold n Pleatco.jpg
 

Hagefamily

Well-known member
Jun 4, 2012
57
Today I continued troubleshooting. Symptom stays the same: When I turn on the system, the Sensor Module Indicator will briefly light up either PGM A or PGM B and then all lights go off. At the same time, the SWG Management Panel locks up showing 00% chlorine and "Wait". Can't use any buttons to check temperature, salinity, or change the % chlorine.

I shut down everything, opened the SWG Management Panel, and disconnected the SWG sensor wire. Turned the system back on. Consistently, the SWG Management panel does not lock-up. I can try the salinity, temperature, and chlorine. Of course, since the wire is disconnected, it shows -- dashes.

This tells me that it's very, very likely the Sensor Module Indicator and/or the actual SWG Sensor. Now I'm trying to decide if I should just get the new sensor or buy the whole new SWG + Sensor set since the SWG is now on its 6th year and likely ready nearing end of life.
 

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
19,424
Probably time for a new cell and trisensor.

You can get the cell, trisensor and power cord with a PLC1400 cell kit.

Note that the software revision is on the CPU, which is visible in the picture.
 

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
19,424
Cycle power and then watch the screen for an error code.

Here is a test procedure that you can do.

Disconnect the flow salinity temp sensor from the circuit board. Press and hold the test buttons marked salinity and R-temp.

While still pressing the test buttons press the ‘Salinity’ key (‘C’) on the front cover of the unit. The LCD should read 2.8 gpl*.

While still holding the two circuit board test buttons press the ‘Pool Temperature’ key (‘D’). It should read 75° F or 24° C.

Next, press and hold the board ‘H-Temp’ test button, and at the same time press the ‘Salinity’ key (‘C’) together with the ‘Chlorine Production Rate’ arrow down key (‘A’) on the front cover of the unit. The LCD should read 91° F or 33° C .

If the readings are correct then the circuit board is O.K. and the problem is with the flow sensor.

On the other hand if the readings are different then it indicates that there is a problem with the circuit board.

 

Hagefamily

Well-known member
Jun 4, 2012
57
Cycle power and then watch the screen for an error code.

Here is a test procedure that you can do.

Disconnect the flow salinity temp sensor from the circuit board. Press and hold the test buttons marked salinity and R-temp.

While still pressing the test buttons press the ‘Salinity’ key (‘C’) on the front cover of the unit. The LCD should read 2.8 gpl*.

While still holding the two circuit board test buttons press the ‘Pool Temperature’ key (‘D’). It should read 75° F or 24° C.

Next, press and hold the board ‘H-Temp’ test button, and at the same time press the ‘Salinity’ key (‘C’) together with the ‘Chlorine Production Rate’ arrow down key (‘A’) on the front cover of the unit. The LCD should read 91° F or 33° C .

If the readings are correct then the circuit board is O.K. and the problem is with the flow sensor.

On the other hand if the readings are different then it indicates that there is a problem with the circuit board.

Great! Thank you for this information, I'll try it tomorrow morning before I order anything!
 

Hagefamily

Well-known member
Jun 4, 2012
57
Probably time for a new cell and trisensor.

You can get the cell, trisensor and power cord with a PLC1400 cell kit.

Note that the software revision is on the CPU, which is visible in the picture.
I'm sure it's time to replace them both. Do you buy from Amazon or somewhere else? I got these when my pool was originally built so I'm not sure if there is a best pool supply site.
 

Hagefamily

Well-known member
Jun 4, 2012
57
Great! Thank you for this information, I'll try it tomorrow morning before I order anything!
James W:

Thank you again for the advice. If I simply cycle the system, I get no errors. The panel displays "Wait" and hangs. I can't do anything.

I shut off the system, opened the panel, disconnected the connector to the flow sensor.

Test 1: Pressing the Salinity and R-temp buttons (on the circuit board) at the same time, I pressed Salinity: 3.3 (expected 2.8)
Test 2: Pressing the Salinity and R-temp buttons (on the circuit board) at the same time, I pressed Temperature: 74 (expected 75)
Test 3: Pressing the H-Temp button(on the circuit board), I also held the Salinity & Down button (on the LCD Panel): 90 (expected 91)

I assume that these should be exact, no margin for error. That tells me there is something wrong with the board but now I have no idea if my SWG Sensor/Cell has a problem. I guess one step at a time.
 

Hagefamily

Well-known member
Jun 4, 2012
57
James W:

Thank you again for the advice. If I simply cycle the system, I get no errors. The panel displays "Wait" and hangs. I can't do anything.

I shut off the system, opened the panel, disconnected the connector to the flow sensor.

Test 1: Pressing the Salinity and R-temp buttons (on the circuit board) at the same time, I pressed Salinity: 3.3 (expected 2.8)
Test 2: Pressing the Salinity and R-temp buttons (on the circuit board) at the same time, I pressed Temperature: 74 (expected 75)
Test 3: Pressing the H-Temp button(on the circuit board), I also held the Salinity & Down button (on the LCD Panel): 90 (expected 91)

I assume that these should be exact, no margin for error. Is it possible that these are the "last reading" from the SWG?

Assuming that I did everything right and the tests are pass/fail (no margin for error) that tells me there is something wrong with the board but now I have no idea if my SWG Sensor/Cell has a problem. I guess one step at a time.
 

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
19,424
The numbers don't have to be exact. They're close enough. It might still be a bad sensor. At the age of the equipment, I would replace the cell, trisensor and power cord. There might be a problem with the circuit board, which you won't know until you replace the cell, trisensor and power cord.

Remove the cell, trisensor and power cord to see if there's any obvious damage.
 

Hagefamily

Well-known member
Jun 4, 2012
57
SOLVED: Today, my new Jandy SWG sensor arrived. Quick install to my control box and onto the SWG cell. Turned on the system and a couple moments later, I have FLOW, 3.1 salinity, 84 degree pool temperature. It's now generating chlorine and acting as expected. Filter PSI sitting at 8. Pool PH, FC, and CYA are all at nominal level at this point.

I'm not going to hook up the new Jandy PLC1400 SWG unit until my current one dies. No reason to throw away an old cell if it's still able to produce chlorine, right?

Thank you all for your help troubleshooting these multi-faceted issues. Looking forward to another summer of swimming!
 
Last edited: