Iron well filled please help

Jump to latest Follow Reply
Cburkett said:
Does your site prefer chlorine or salt users.
Click to expand...
Either is acceptable. Salt water generators have an up-front cost that can be a problem for some, so manually adding chlorine (regular bleach) each day becomes the routine. But in either case, it's simply a way to add/produce free chlorine. SWG's produce chlorine and bleach adds it as well. Just depends on what a pool owner wishes to do.
 
Cburkett said:
Thank you. Does your site prefer chlorine or salt users. Since we're newly switching we're interested in either. We didn't know where to start.
Click to expand...
There's no difference. Either the bleach is made at a factory, bottled up, shipped to a store, brought home, and finally dumped in the pool, or it's made in the pool plumbing. Same process. Same chemical. Same everything except for a few minor chemistry adjustments.
 
Hi. If I'm doing this testing correctly after my 4 gallon of bleach I'm at a 1 for fr and .6 cc I just added my 5th gallon right now at 1:30. I'm preforming by putting 25 pool water. 2 scoop powder. Brown bottle count drops until clear x's .2 for FC. then 5 drops 0003 and follow by drops of brown count until clear x's .2 ??

Texas Splash said:
It's usually best to let the water circulate for about 20-30 minutes before re-testing for any chemical additions.
Click to expand...
 
Cburkett said:
Is there a different way for cc or way I described above.
Click to expand...
The CC test is done as follows:
  1. Add 5 drops of R-0003 and swirl to mix. If the sample remains clear, your CC level is zero.
  2. If the sample turns pink again, add R-0871 one drop at a time, swirling constantly and counting the number of drops as you go. Continue adding drops until the color changes to clear. The pink color may become extremely faint before it goes away. Make sure that the sample goes completely clear.
  3. Multiply the number of drops by 0.5 to get your CC level
That's from the FAS-DPD Chlorine Test - Trouble Free Pool page.
 
Texas Splash said:
The CC test is done as follows:
  1. Add 5 drops of R-0003 and swirl to mix. If the sample remains clear, your CC level is zero.
  2. If the sample turns pink again, add R-0871 one drop at a time, swirling constantly and counting the number of drops as you go. Continue adding drops until the color changes to clear. The pink color may become extremely faint before it goes away. Make sure that the sample goes completely clear.
  3. Multiply the number of drops by 0.5 to get your CC level
That's from the FAS-DPD Chlorine Test - Trouble Free Pool page.
Click to expand...
Thank you so much for the instructions. Just retested 3:30 results are 1 cc and 8.5 fc this is following adding 6 gallon bleach. I haven't tested anything else since the initial testing I gave as far as ph and alk. I would need instructions or wait on husband. I wait on what you would like me to do next.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Cburkett said:
I would need instructions or wait on husband. I wait on what you would like me to do next.
Click to expand...
All the instructions for testing can be found here: Extended Test Kit Directions Archives - Trouble Free Pool.

If I recall, you said you didn't think you had algae correct? However a CC level of 1 is slightly elevated letting us know something excessive is being processed in the water. Remember, it's important to ensure the water has no algae before finalizing anything for iron. If you have any doubt about algae, even if you can't actually see it at this stage, you can do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test test.

Either way, the things I would focus on at the moment are FC and pH. Make sure the pH remains fairly low in the 7.2-7.4 range which will help with the iron. If you have to do a SLAM Process for algae, you want the pH low anyways. Keep the FC balanced to your "current" CYA as noted on the FC/CYA Levels. On the non-SWG chart, find your CYA and then the matching FC level. If you have any problems, let us know.
 
Texas Splash said:
All the instructions for testing can be found here: Extended Test Kit Directions Archives - Trouble Free Pool.

If I recall, you said you didn't think you had algae correct? However a CC level of 1 is slightly elevated letting us know something excessive is being processed in the water. Remember, it's important to ensure the water has no algae before finalizing anything for iron. If you have any doubt about algae, even if you can't actually see it at this stage, you can do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test test.

Either way, the things I would focus on at the moment are FC and pH. Make sure the pH remains fairly low in the 7.2-7.4 range which will help with the iron. If you have to do a SLAM Process for algae, you want the pH low anyways. Keep the FC balanced to your "current" CYA as noted on the FC/CYA Levels. On the non-SWG chart, find your CYA and then the matching FC level. If you have any problems, let us know.
Click to expand...
I do not see any algae at all in the fiberglass walls. They are white and easy to see. I have had the pool uncovered though with 0 chlorine since reaching out. If you think it's best to do some testing first I'm fine with that. I so badly dont want to have any more issues. I dont know if products effect the cc. I had a ton in it. Since opening I've put at least 5 bottles of magnet plus and sparkle up. Since reaching out initially I put one bottle metal out, one bottle citrate acid and one bottle of oxide acid I think it was and a bottle of algaecide. Pool place had me putting tons and tons of shock I different times to increase chlorine.
 
Ill read the instructions for the over night. So that you can better help me I'll eliminate all the what ifs from the beginning.. will go ahead and do it.


Texas Splash said:
All the instructions for testing can be found here: Extended Test Kit Directions Archives - Trouble Free Pool.

If I recall, you said you didn't think you had algae correct? However a CC level of 1 is slightly elevated letting us know something excessive is being processed in the water. Remember, it's important to ensure the water has no algae before finalizing anything for iron. If you have any doubt about algae, even if you can't actually see it at this stage, you can do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test test.

Either way, the things I would focus on at the moment are FC and pH. Make sure the pH remains fairly low in the 7.2-7.4 range which will help with the iron. If you have to do a SLAM Process for algae, you want the pH low anyways. Keep the FC balanced to your "current" CYA as noted on the FC/CYA Levels. On the non-SWG chart, find your CYA and then the matching FC level. If you have any problems, let us know.
Click to expand...
 
Yes, all of the other products added will certainly effect regular chemistry, but you can get through this. No pool should be at 0 chlorine though except under rare circumstances, and even then only for a very short period. So for now, adjust the pH lower to the 7.2-7.4 area and balance the FC with the current CYA. If you do the overnight test (Overnight Chlorine Loss Test), let us know tomorrow if you passed or not. Good luck!
 
Texas Splash said:
Yes, all of the other products added will certainly effect regular chemistry, but you can get through this. No pool should be at 0 chlorine though except under rare circumstances, and even then only for a very short period. So for now, adjust the pH lower to the 7.2-7.4 area and balance the FC with the current CYA. If you do the overnight test (Overnight Chlorine Loss Test), let us know tomorrow if you passed or not. Good luck!
Click to expand...
Thank you! I think I already have the answer. FC has fallen to 2 will check in am but planning to get the supply to start slam in the morning. You have no idea how much this site has helped me already. I'm feeling hopeful again.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Texas Splash
Texas Splash said:
Yes, all of the other products added will certainly effect regular chemistry, but you can get through this. No pool should be at 0 chlorine though except under rare circumstances, and even then only for a very short period. So for now, adjust the pH lower to the 7.2-7.4 area and balance the FC with the current CYA. If you do the overnight test (Overnight Chlorine Loss Test), let us know tomorrow if you passed or not. Good luck!
Click to expand...
The pool lost all of the chlorine. I'll head to get the bleach and start slam this morning.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Texas Splash
Texas Splash said:
Yes, all of the other products added will certainly effect regular chemistry, but you can get through this. No pool should be at 0 chlorine though except under rare circumstances, and even then only for a very short period. So for now, adjust the pH lower to the 7.2-7.4 area and balance the FC with the current CYA. If you do the overnight test (Overnight Chlorine Loss Test), let us know tomorrow if you passed or not. Good luck!
Click to expand...
Also do I continue to leave the pool heater off during this process of slamming
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply