INTEX 14" Krystal Klear Sand Filter Pump Make Noise

Charlie_R

TFP Expert
May 8, 2013
2,156
Mexico, MO
#2
How mechanically inclined are you?

The noise sounds suspiciously like bearings failing. You will have to disassemble the pump from the motor to fix this, if you can find the correct bearings. Shouldn't be too hard, as you probably have a couple of bearing distributors near you.
 

linen

TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 30, 2010
8,649
Twin Cities, MN
#6
Does it move water fine to start with and the develop air in the pump basket? I would eliminate the suction side leak first. Then see how yours sounds. Have you lubed (with silicone or teflon lube) the pump cover oring?
 

Pysiek

LifeTime Supporter
Apr 4, 2012
419
Frankfort , Illinois
#7
linen said:
Does it move water fine to start with and the develop air in the pump basket? I would eliminate the suction side leak first. Then see how yours sounds. Have you lubed (with silicone or teflon lube) the pump cover oring?
No I have never lubed the oring since I purchased the pump in May last year
 

asxetos

Well-known member
Jul 7, 2012
99
Athens, Greece
#8
These pumps tend to make a lot of noise when stressed.

When we replace the Intex flexible tubes for hard plumping that looks way neater, then we can unintentionally introduce a lot of sharp bends, depending on hard plumping design, and this will stress the pump more than the unsightly OEM tubes did.

Some higher quality pumps can take that strain without any audible complains, but from my experience I can definitely state that Intex pumps can not.
 

Pysiek

LifeTime Supporter
Apr 4, 2012
419
Frankfort , Illinois
#9
asxetos said:
These pumps tend to make a lot of noise when stressed.

When we replace the Intex flexible tubes for hard plumping that looks way neater, then we can unintentionally introduce a lot of sharp bends, depending on hard plumping design, and this will stress the pump more than the unsightly OEM tubes did.

Some higher quality pumps can take that strain without any audible complains, but from my experience I can definitely state that Intex pumps can not.
You might be right. Now I have more 90 deg turns
 

Pysiek

LifeTime Supporter
Apr 4, 2012
419
Frankfort , Illinois
#10
Okay. It took me a while but finally I found some time to check my pump.
First thing after I remove plastic cover that covers the motor. Why there is no seal?



Next I found that the impeller wheel (that's how you call it I believe) was clogged with straws of grass



This is how much I pulled out



After I cleaned everything and put all the parts together I connect the pump back to the filter . Turn it on and still same noise :rant:
Then I decided to take it apart completely to replace the bearings.
Check the photos of what I've found out. Rusted bearing :!:


I expected Intex to make better product but it looks like they do not want the bearings to last long time.

I have ordered the bearings and they will arrive tomorrow.
Already removed the old bearings.
Will keep you updated.
Also short note on the bearings. They are 608Z bearings which are most of the time used in rollerskating or skateboarding. I called local skate shop stores but they do not have them in stock. I ordered mines from McMaster-Carr cause they delivered cheap next day: http://www.mcmaster.com/#6661k12/=o15eph
But I found cheaper ones here: http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/sk8zz. I used to order from these guys before but now I need these ASAP so I decided to go with McMasterr-Carr
One more thing. All you guys who will like to replace their bearings too use my advice and use cordless drill to remove 3 long screws that hold the two bearing housings together. Screws head is very easy to get damaged and you won't be able to remove them.
What I did is I set up the cordless drill clutch at 10 and press really hard against the screw. Drill acted as it was a impact drill which remove the screws slowly and without damaging the head.
 

Pysiek

LifeTime Supporter
Apr 4, 2012
419
Frankfort , Illinois
#12
It did have a seal. Two of them to be specific. One were mounted on the spring. Do you know if there are pictures of the disassembly somewhere? I forgot to take some while I was disassembling the motor.
 

Charlie_R

TFP Expert
May 8, 2013
2,156
Mexico, MO
#13
I have done a LOT of internet searching for pics and diagrams of the internals of these pumps. Intex and their manufacturers don't seem to want that info out there. The skate bearing thing may be part of that, as knowledge of the relatively low cost components would probably reduce sales by a large margin. We aren't supposed to repair these things, as the price point is supposed to be low enough to just replace when things go south.
 

unkyjoe

LifeTime Supporter
Jun 24, 2013
192
Seguin TX
#14
After seeing this I am glad I went with my old sand filter and a new 3/4 hp pump.

Looks like those Intex Pumps on the 1600 are not made that well. That bearing looks horrible for the short time you have used it. My old Hayward pump lasted years out in the weather even without a cover, it looks like a shaft seal was leaking on that pump allowing the bearing to get wet.
 

Pysiek

LifeTime Supporter
Apr 4, 2012
419
Frankfort , Illinois
#15
I will sell my pool next year so I just want to fix it for now. But I learned my lesson not to get intex sand filters no more.
One more thing I would like to let you know. I keep the filter and pump in my shed over the winter. So it wasn't sitting outside all year long.
 
Sep 15, 2011
17
#16
All you guys who will like to replace their bearings too use my advice and use cordless drill to remove 3 long screws that hold the two bearing housings together. Screws head is very easy to get damaged and you won't be able to remove them.
X10. I used an 18V impact driver with very light trigger pull for slow hammer.

I just posted about this fix but w/out pics. Thanks for the pics. I actually found a bearing from Fastenal that had a rubber outer seal. My shaft wasn't rusted like yours- I had cage failure. Only one bearing was bad, but the armature had some scarring and the noise was very loud. I replaced both for just over $2. At that price I will be tearing down prior to next year and likely replacing again. These bearings are cheap and very light duty.
I found a heavier duty bearing thru Grainger but the delivery was a week and I had been down 5 days already. Fastanal was driving distance so I went with them. Grainger bearing: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DAYTON-Miniature-Ball-Bearing-1ZFF5?Pid=search
I may order these to have on standby.
 

Pysiek

LifeTime Supporter
Apr 4, 2012
419
Frankfort , Illinois
#17
jerallen said:
All you guys who will like to replace their bearings too use my advice and use cordless drill to remove 3 long screws that hold the two bearing housings together. Screws head is very easy to get damaged and you won't be able to remove them.
X10. I used an 18V impact driver with very light trigger pull for slow hammer.

I just posted about this fix but w/out pics. Thanks for the pics. I actually found a bearing from Fastenal that had a rubber outer seal. My shaft wasn't rusted like yours- I had cage failure. Only one bearing was bad, but the armature had some scarring and the noise was very loud. I replaced both for just over $2. At that price I will be tearing down prior to next year and likely replacing again. These bearings are cheap and very light duty.
I found a heavier duty bearing thru Grainger but the delivery was a week and I had been down 5 days already. Fastanal was driving distance so I went with them. Grainger bearing: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DAYTON-Miniature-Ball-Bearing-1ZFF5?Pid=search
I may order these to have on standby.
I choose those bearings because the ones with plastic shield are only 22,000 RPM and the ones with steel shield are rated at 48,000 RPM. Since I have no idea how many RPM the intex motor have then I jest went with 48,000. I might go to high but it's better then go to low :)