Intermatic T103 replacement with Dewenwils Wifi Timer Switch wiring migration

[Boxwired]

Hi,
I have the Intermatic T103 DPST switch set up and wired from a breaker with power supply as a 4 wire, 3 conductor cable with Black 120vac, Red 120vac, White neutral and copper ground.

I have two 120vac loads to power, one switched, one not on the T103. The first load is a series of outdoor lights around the pool, which is switched. The second load is a series of outlets which is unswitched. I am ok with the dewenwils box controlling both loads as switched together if necessary.

In the Intermatic T103 box is a wiring diagram as attached.

My current setup:
From Breaker: Black to terminal 1, Red to terminal 3, White to terminal A, ground to ground terminal.
Outgoing, the 2 white wires are wirenutted with the white incoming line and again all tied to terminal A. ground to ground, and the switched black line on terminal 2, and unswitched on terminal 4.

In the WiFi box, wiring diagram link here: http://www.dewenwils.com/d/files/timer/howt01a-instruction.pdf

It doesn't seem to list any diagram for DPST, but I'm hoping there is a way to wire with this box, even if it means that both outgoing lines will operate as one in terms of the timer/switch. I was planning on using the "120VAC Application Controlling Two 120VAC Loads" wiring option, but this doesn't use both black and red "hot" lines coming in from the breaker, but perhaps that's no big deal, and only useful if switching one line was possible, but wasn't sure how using just one would affect the breaker. Just cap off the red line and use the black line in this diagram?

Thanks much for any help!

 

[ajw22]

Welcome to TFP.

Do the black and the red hot lines go to different breakers?

While you say the second load is a series of outlets which is unswitched it is wired through 3 to 4 and IS switched on the T103. If you want it unswitched then wire nut the wires together and don’t run it through the timer.

When did we become the electrical DIY Forum?

 

[Boxwired]

Thanks Allen, should have created an account a while ago when setting up the pool originally.

Red and black hot lines go each to their own 20A breaker. I didn't think the outlets were switched, but if the T103 switches all loads when connected as mine was, then that must be the case and we only used them when the pool lights were on. Strange.

That said, any ideas on wiring the new WiFi box would be appreciated.

 

[ccbill]

Seems the Illustrated Installation of Hot Water Tank diagram is similar to your current setup. Your black and red would be the L1 and L2 in the diagram and the N01 and N02 wires would go to your separate loads.

 

[ccbill]

Maintain the white wire (neutral) configuration in your new box.

 

[ajw22]

They don't have a diagram for 120V with two separate line hot wires. The water heater diagram is for a 240V hookup.

• Breaker1: Black to COM1 & L1,
• Breaker2:Red to COM2, - if you want it switched
• White to terminal L2/N,
• ground to ground terminal.
• Outgoing, the 2 white wires are wirenutted with the white incoming line and again all tied to terminal L2/N
• ground to ground, and the
• switched black line on terminal NO1,
• and other to outlets on terminal NO2 - if you want it switched or wirenut it to red hot wire

 

[Boxwired]

Thanks guys. Allen - your configuration worked like a charm and now the pool area is lit and outlets powered via the wifi box. Thanks much, time to go enjoy it. Have a great weekend.