Intelliflo VS pump and Jandy valve questions

Jump to latest Follow Reply
JimMarshall

JimMarshall

0
Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jun 5, 2017
1,090
Oil City PA
Can someone explain for me the differences between the Intelliflo ($1200), the Intelliflo VF ($1700), and the IntellifloXF ($1300)?

Also, if I buy Jandy never lube valves, my questions are: will I be able to someday actuate them with pentair automation? And are you able to adjust which pipe on the 3 way is the inlet?
 
Jim,

The IntelliFlo for $1200 could be almost any of the older ones, so need more details. The VF is a variable Flow instead of a Variable Speed, you do not want a VF only model. The XF is built to provide more water flow and I believe uses larger pipes. Not something the average pool owner needs..

The Best bet is the P/N 011018 which is the cheapest at about $900, but does not have a rotatable control head. It is no longer being made... It was replaced by the P/N 011028 which is about $1,200.. I "think" that is has a rotatable control head but do not know for sure..

Jandy valves will accept all brands of actuators, so Pentair automation will work just fine..

If you plan to use Pentair automation, just make sure that you do NOT buy the Pentair SuperFlo VS, which cannot be easily automated..

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Jim,

Amazon.com : Pentair VS IntelliFlo 011028 Bundle (Includes Pump, Unions, Surge Protector) : Garden & Outdoor

Amazon.com : Pentair VS IntelliFlo 011028 Bundle (Includes Pump, Unions, Surge Protector) : Garden & Outdoor
www.amazon.com

This is not a bad deal as you would be have to be an idiot not to use pump unions and a surge protector.. I see a lot of sellers at about $900 bucks..

Just beware of sellers that offer the 011018 and then tell you that it is sold out and that they will send you a "better" pump with SVRS.. If you hear this run... SVRS is a safety feature on some IntelliFlo pumps that is useless.. I know because I have one.. :mad: It is supposed to keep kids from being trapped on the main drain, but is not necessary with split main drains or main drains that have the new raised covers.. It will stop working if your next-door neighbor just passes gas.. :mrgreen: It is the design of the safety system and not a problem with the IntelliFlo pump itself.

Keep in mind the 011018 has a control head that you read from the motor end... In a lot of installations this means contol head is pointed the wrong way and you have to view it upside down.

Jim R.
 
  • Like
Reactions: setsailsoon
Normally it is installed in the Automation system where the circuit breakers are... or in the equipment pad circuit breaker panel where the Pump's circuit breaker is if you have no automation.

Jim R.
 
Jimrahbe said:
Normally it is installed in the Automation system where the circuit breakers are... or in the equipment pad circuit breaker panel where the Pump's circuit breaker is if you have no automation.

Jim R.
Click to expand...

I don’t have automation but would like to add it at a later date. My current pump is 110 volt, looking for this pool season to upgrade it from my current pump to this VSP. Down the road looking to add a slide and a water feature to my 24’ AGP and automate their use. So my question is, I was planning to run this pump off of my main panel for the house. Should i instead wire for an outdoor sub panel? Should I stay with running it from my regular panel and install the surge protector there?
 
Jim,

Either will work, but if this were my pool, I would run a 30 amp feed line from your main circuit breaker panel out to a sub panel near where you plan to have your new pool equipment. Most automation systems have a load center built into them... Here is a look at mine...

ET2.jpg

ET2.jpg


At the top, behind all the buttons, is the actual automation system. Below that are some relays that turn things on/off. And below that is the load center with circuit breakers.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
JimMarshall said:
Also, if I buy Jandy never lube valves, my questions are: will I be able to someday actuate them with pentair automation? And are you able to adjust which pipe on the 3 way is the inlet?
Click to expand...

Jim,

As Jim R mentioned you can use any actuator with the Jandy Never-Lube valves. I have a mixture of Jandy and Intermatic on my system. There are a lot of new improvements coming on the market right now for actuators like Intermatic's Ready Set. Much easier to position the open and close or adjust if needed. Click here for a video. I expect all brands will be introducing better features like this. Also if you DIY be sure to check warranty limitations for Jandy DIY. Most brands reduce warranty for DIYer's. Jandy eliminates it for everything except valves and valve parts. They have openly stated "they're quitting the internet" in their catalog. Intermatic offers full warranty for DIY.

I hope this helps.

Chris
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
setsailsoon said:
Jim,

As Jim R mentioned you can use any actuator with the Jandy Never-Lube valves. I have a mixture of Jandy and Intermatic on my system. There are a lot of new improvements coming on the market right now for actuators like Intermatic's Ready Set. Much easier to position the open and close or adjust if needed. Click here for a video. I expect all brands will be introducing better features like this. Also if you DIY be sure to check warranty limitations for Jandy DIY. Most brands reduce warranty for DIYer's. Jandy eliminates it for everything except valves and valve parts. They have openly stated "they're quitting the internet" in their catalog. Intermatic offers full warranty for DIY.

I hope this helps.

Chris
Click to expand...

Chris, will the intermatic actuators work with Pentair automation? This is a new step for me that I know nothing about
 
Jimrahbe said:
Jim,

Either will work, but if this were my pool, I would run a 30 amp feed line from your main circuit breaker panel out to a sub panel near where you plan to have your new pool equipment. Most automation systems have a load center built into them... Here is a look at mine...

ET2.jpg

ET2.jpg


At the top, behind all the buttons, is the actual automation system. Below that are some relays that turn things on/off. And below that is the load center with circuit breakers.

Thanks,

Jim R.
Click to expand...

Jim, so what I’m hearing here is that it would be beneficial for me to run a 30 amp sub panel, using a GFCI breaker I assume, and then when I get my automation I will just have to replace my circuit panel with the automation panel?
 
JimMarshall said:
Chris, will the intermatic actuators work with Pentair automation? This is a new step for me that I know nothing about
Click to expand...

Jim,

I'm pretty certain it will. They all seem to work about the same electronically. They state on their website it is compatible with all manufacturers valves and were a direct replace for my Jandy. Jim Rahbe is one of our automation experts and he should be able to confirm. What do you think Jim R?

Chris
 
It appears to me like it will fit any of the Jandy "style" valves. I had not seen them before but they look pretty good to me...

If I needed a new actuator today, I'd buy one just to try it out. I am sure it will work with any automation system...

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
setsailsoon said:
Jim,

I'm pretty certain it will. They all seem to work about the same electronically. They state on their website it is compatible with all manufacturers valves and were a direct replace for my Jandy. Jim Rahbe is one of our automation experts and he should be able to confirm. What do you think Jim R?

Chris
Click to expand...
Chris, does intermatic sell the valves or just actuators?
 
Jim,

All of the major manufacturers make the valves and they all seem to have the same body fitting so the actuators will fit on each other's housings. There seem to be more Jandy valves out there and I don't know if it's something preferred about the Never-Lube or just maybe they were on the market first. As far as I know Intermatic does not manufacture valves. I would stick with a major manufacturer. They are clearly designed (and priced) to last. You can also buy kits to rebuild them. All of them are way better than the standard schedule 40 PVC valves. Maybe others will chime in here that have a lot more knowledge than I do.

If it was me I'd buy Jandy and that's just because I have them and they work well. They are also the only thing Jandy will sell that has a warranty for self-install and online purchases.

I hope this helps.

Chris
 
Ok, so just a few more questions..... I’m planning on the pump, unions, and now the outdoor sub panel. I’m planning on 4 3 way valves - one to bypass the heater, one to create a pump to waste between my pump and the filter, and one for my skimmer lines to control suction, and one to control flow between my 2 returns.

What size are the fittings on that pump? I’m going to have to upgrade to 2+ inch piping right?

Anything I’m not thinking of?
 
Jim,

If you plan on automating all four the valves, it makes things more complicated. The EasyTouch has four valve drivers.. BUT.. two of them can only be used for the Intake and Return valves which are generally configured to switch between the pool and the spa. That only leaves you two valves that you can program to do what you want..

If you want more valves you have to move up to the IntelliTouch or IntelliCenter.. with additional valve driver cards added. :mad:

You can install some hand made work-a -rounds but best to know what you need up front..

Jim R.
 
Jimrahbe said:
Jim,

If you plan on automating all four the valves, it makes things more complicated. The EasyTouch has four valve drivers.. BUT.. two of them can only be used for the Intake and Return valves which are generally configured to switch between the pool and the spa. That only leaves you two valves that you can program to do what you want..

If you want more valves you have to move up to the IntelliTouch or IntelliCenter.. with additional valve driver cards added. :mad:

You can install some hand made work-a -rounds but best to know what you need up front..

Jim R.
Click to expand...

Jim, I planned for sure to in the future automate the heater valve. The ones on the suctions and returns would more be just to make sure I’m getting adequate draw. I’d automate the suction before the return just simply for vacuuming, but too be honest since I bought my robot I’m not sure it would be worth the expense to automate. After I got my robot Father’s Day last year, I hooked my vacuum up once- to help draw the pool down for winter! To recap, I’d likely plan to automate the “to waste” line for draining excess water off , I’d definitely want to automate the valve to/to bypass the heater, and potentially the suction line.

When I add a SWG, will it need or should it have, a bypass?

In the future I will want to add an automated valve to run a slide for sure. Maybe to run a water feature if I can come up with an idea I like, but I’d easily give that idea up if it’s going to mean a ton of expense.

Can valve actuators be set incrementally? Or is it an off/on proposition?

Also I’m concerned now about my filter. The inlet and out let lines are 1.5”. Will this restrict my flow?
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply