IntelliConnect - Additional relay?

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S,

Both cables carry low voltage and data, so neither needs to be in a conduit...

To connect the IntelliChlor power center's com port to the IntelliConnect com port you need a 22 ga 4 wire cable.

To connect the Heater's fireman's switch to the IntelliConnect, you need a 22 ga 2 wire cable (or you could use a 4 wire cable and just not use two of the wires)

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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I've located the manual for my Raypack heater (https://www.royalswimmingpools.com/rp2100manual.pdf) and page 36/37 has instructions for connecting to an external remote such as IntelliConnect. The heater has 2 modes for SPA/POOL which seem to just provide a preset temp point. Should I proceed with the "2-Wire Remote Control (On-Off)" as IntelliConnect is performing on/off based on feedback from the temp sensor?
 
This journey comes full circle Sunday. I hope my newb questions help someone.

I have 2 options right now:

1) Convert 120V to 240V --> Move the 2 pool and 1 spa LED light on a 120V/20A (4.5A draw measured) to the 120V/20A used by landscape lights (1.5A draw measured) to free up a 120V RED/WHITE. Re-use WHITE neutral as a 240V/20A for the pool pump. IntelliConnect (240V/2A), IntelliChlor (240V/2A??), Heater (240V/2A), and Spa Bubbler (240V/5.5A) on the existing 240V/20A. Problem: I cannot find a Siemens 240/20A to replace the 120V/20A at the panel. My electrician says I could use GE.
2) Move the 240V components to the 120V lines -> IntelliConnect (120V/2A X 2??), IntelliChlor (120V/2A X 2??), and Heater (120V/4A) to the existing 240V/20A lines. This keeps the pump and the Spa Bubbler on the existing 240V/20A. The Spa Bubbler would never be turned on with the pump at the same time.
 
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If you use a white wire as a hot wire for safety you must wrap black electrical tape around both ends of the wire.

For a 20 amp circuit the wires must be 12 gauge.
 
ajw22 said:
If you use a white wire as a hot wire for safety you must wrap black electrical tape around both ends of the wire.

For a 20 amp circuit the wires must be 12 gauge.
Click to expand...

The black electrical tape will be used as an indicator that it is 'hot', correct? Yes, the existing wire is 12gauge.

Given above, is there any reason to do #1 over #2 or vice versa?
 
sagosto said:
I have 2 options right now:

1) Convert 120V to 240V --> Move the 2 pool and 1 spa LED light on a 120V/20A (4.5A draw measured) to the 120V/20A used by landscape lights (1.5A draw measured) to free up a 120V RED/WHITE. Re-use WHITE neutral as a 240V/20A for the pool pump. IntelliConnect (240V/2A), IntelliChlor (240V/2A??), Heater (240V/2A), and Spa Bubbler (240V/5.5A) on the existing 240V/20A. Problem: I cannot find a Siemens 240/20A to replace the 120V/20A at the panel. My electrician says I could use GE.
2) Move the 240V components to the 120V lines -> IntelliConnect (120V/2A X 2??), IntelliChlor (120V/2A X 2??), and Heater (120V/4A) to the existing 240V/20A lines. This keeps the pump and the Spa Bubbler on the existing 240V/20A. The Spa Bubbler would never be turned on with the pump at the same time.
Click to expand...
sagosto said:
The black electrical tape will be used as an indicator that it is 'hot', correct?
Click to expand...

Yes.

sagosto said:
Given above, is there any reason to do #1 over #2 or vice versa?
Click to expand...

I find what you wrote confusing. I don't know the starting point and too many details I don't know to have an opinion.
 
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Stuff running on 120V or 240V does not matter. In general high amp devices should run on 240V. Low amp devices can run on either.
 
ajw22 said:
Stuff running on 120V or 240V does not matter. In general high amp devices should run on 240V. Low amp devices can run on either.
Click to expand...
This is what I thought too. I don't understand why someone would run 120V with a red/white wire if you can run 240V w/ 2 hots effectively giving you more Amperage room. Is it the cost of the 2-poke breaker?
 
sagosto said:
This is what I thought too. I don't understand why someone would run 120V with a red/white wire if you can run 240V w/ 2 hots effectively giving you more Amperage room. Is it the cost of the 2-poke breaker?
Click to expand...

I can not explain why some folks are penny wise and pound foolish.
 
sagosto said:
Can the relays be a mix of 120v and 240v? My spa bubbler is 240v but the lights are 120v? Where does the 120v neutral get wired in?
Click to expand...

Post pics of what the IntelliConnect relay connections look like. There is no manual showing them on the Pentair website.

You don't switch neutral wires.
 
sagosto said:
The IntelliChlor manual isn’t very clear but the green and white terminals are used on both the IntelliChlor and IntelliConnect?
Click to expand...

Green and yellow wires carry RS-485 data for the IntelliConnect to communicate with the cell.

What is your question?
 
ajw22 said:
Green and yellow wires carry RS-485 data for the IntelliConnect to communicate with the cell.

What is your question?
Click to expand...

the green and yellow wires are more blue and yellow. They connect green and yellow on the intellichlor block (4 terminal block with green/yellow/black/red) and the corresponding green yellow rs 485 in intelliconnect ?
 
I have a 240v spa bubbler for relay one and 120v pool lights for relay 2. I assume 2 hot Line in for 240v and out to finish powering the bubbler and the same for pool lights except one hot and one neutral ?
 

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