Intellichlor IC40 Incorrect Salt Level

kingstar

Active member
Aug 14, 2018
43
Mesa, AZ
My Intellichlor IC40 is showing an incorrect salt level. It is just slightly over 1 year old. It was showing low, but my Taylor drop test showed 3600ppm. I added 1 bag of salt to see what it would do and it got me over the threshold for low salt for a bit (a few days), but is now showing very low salt again at 2550ppm. My tests come up with 4200ppm. Below is where my pool was sitting yesterday for all other tests including salt. Any ideas?

FC: 3.0
CC: 0.0
pH: 7.9
Total Alkalinity: 80
Calcium Hardness: 460
CYA: 60
Salt: 4200
Water Temp: 57°F
Calculated CSI: -0.030
 

kingstar

Active member
Aug 14, 2018
43
Mesa, AZ
It was 57°F at the time, currently at 55°F. I'm guessing I should just ignore it as long as the chlorine is staying where it is supposed to. Although my acid injector seemed like it stopped injecting as well.
 

mknauss

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
Bronze Supporter
May 3, 2014
23,741
Laughlin, NV
Be ready to replace (or submit a warranty claim) for the flow switch. The symptom that the thermistor in the flow switch is failing is a low salinity being reported when the actual salinity is much higher.
 

C.Johnson

In The Industry
May 14, 2019
27
Tulsa, OK
Salt meters do not measure salinity directly, but instead measure the conductivity of the water, which changes with total dissolved solids and temperature.
Many salt cells do not compensate for the temperature of the water, and as a result can read lower by about 2% per degree below 25C. I'm not sure what the temperature coefficient is for Fahrenheit, but its generally reported by manufacturers as anywhere from 70-100ppm salinity per degree below 77F.

Given your titration results vs the reported levels, your readings are perfectly in line with what we would expect, just a bit under 2% per degree, or around 82ppm/deg
 

mknauss

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
Bronze Supporter
May 3, 2014
23,741
Laughlin, NV
The IC SWCG's compensate pretty well for temperature. My water temperature is currently 56F and my ET shows 3050 ppm. My test shows 3200 ppm.
 

MLR54

Active member
Jul 30, 2016
40
East Central Florida
I also have a IC40 here in central Florida and when the water temp in the pool goes below 60 the same thing happens to me I have had it replaced under warranty for this issue now 1 year later same thing So in the mornings when this has happened I turn the SWG off for about 1 hr and turn it back on and all is ok. I have now adjusted my SWG to come on 1 hr later so the water has a little more time to circulate and warm up. This seems to have taken care of the problem. I believe I read when it turns on this is when it senses the temp and stays at that until reset, That has been my experience hope this helps

[QUOTE="kingstar, post: 1743845, member: 192362"
My Intellichlor IC40 is showing an incorrect salt level. It is just slightly over 1 year old. It was showing low, but my Taylor drop test showed 3600ppm. I added 1 bag of salt to see what it would do and it got me over the threshold for low salt for a bit (a few days), but is now showing very low salt again at 2550ppm. My tests come up with 4200ppm. Below is where my pool was sitting yesterday for all other tests including salt. Any ideas?

FC: 3.0
CC: 0.0
pH: 7.9
Total Alkalinity: 80
Calcium Hardness: 460
CYA: 60
Salt: 4200
Water Temp: 57°F
Calculated CSI: -0.030
[/QUOTE]
 

fredricr1

Active member
Jun 18, 2018
37
Oceanside, CA
Chiming in. My IC40 was showing 2200ppm and my Taylor test was 3600ppm (18 drops before turning red/brown). Water temp is 61F here in So Cal. I added 40lb of salt and the IC40 is now showing 2650 so the red light is still on. Haven't done a second Taylor test - waiting 24hrs but I'd expect it to read around 4100-4200ppm. The unit is coming up on 2 years old but the flow switch was replaced just over a year ago because it was reading zero salt.
 

jimim

Bronze Supporter
Jun 20, 2016
2,606
NE/Pa
I have 4 ic40’s in my basement over 2 swim seasons. I have prob 5 flow switches.

I pretty much just make sure the unit runs by keeping my salt as low as possible to keep the cell happy using the Taylor drop test. I don’t even bother with the salt readings from the unit anymore. I just look at the lights.
 

ajw22

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 21, 2013
13,272
Northern NJ
I have 4 ic40’s in my basement over 2 swim seasons. I have prob 5 flow switches.

I pretty much just make sure the unit runs by keeping my salt as low as possible to keep the cell happy using the Taylor drop test. I don’t even bother with the salt readings from the unit anymore. I just look at the lights.
Must be some big pool you have in your basement. :laughblue:

Relying on the lights on the IC40 for salt level will lead you astray when the temperture probe starts giving incorrect readings.
 

jimim

Bronze Supporter
Jun 20, 2016
2,606
NE/Pa
Must be some big pool you have in your basement. :laughblue:

Relying on the lights on the IC40 for salt level will lead you astray when the temperture probe starts giving incorrect readings.
I only keep the cell happy by my salt readings. I never trust that thing. I shoot for lowest salt level to keep the cell on with my Taylor readings. My cell was off by 500-700 all last season. And I know I’m doing my salt test right. It’s very straightforward for u know.
 

ajw22

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 21, 2013
13,272
Northern NJ
I only keep the cell happy by my salt readings. I never trust that thing. I shoot for lowest salt level to keep the cell on with my Taylor readings. My cell was off by 500-700 all last season. And I know I’m doing my salt test right. It’s very straightforward for u know.
OK, I misread what you meant when you said "I just look at the lights. ".