Intellichlor IC20 troubleshooting

Smitty007

Member
Jun 19, 2021
5
Evansville IN
Pool Size
20000
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-20
I have an IC20 that I just replaced the flow switch on, after noticing my flow indicator light was red. Now on the SWG the flow light is green and so is the cell light, however, the salt light is not on at all. When I run the diagnostic test, it shows that I have ran the cell at 4k hours and the salt light is red, but other than running a diagnostic on the SWG, the salt light will not come on at all. I have done a salt strip test on my water and it shows that the pool is at about 3700ppm. What could be the problem?
 

mknauss

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
Bronze Supporter
May 3, 2014
44,429
Laughlin, NV
Pool Size
6000
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Welcome to the forum!
If the Cell light is green, the IC should be generating chlorine. Is it? Do you see bubbles of hydrogen gas in the pool returns?
When the IC starts up, do the Salt lights flash like a RR crossing light?
Do you have automation that the IC is hooked up to?
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.
 

Smitty007

Member
Jun 19, 2021
5
Evansville IN
Pool Size
20000
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-20
Welcome to the forum!
If the Cell light is green, the IC should be generating chlorine. Is it? Do you see bubbles of hydrogen gas in the pool returns?
When the IC starts up, do the Salt lights flash like a RR crossing light?
Do you have automation that the IC is hooked up to?
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water

Welcome to the forum!
If the Cell light is green, the IC should be generating chlorine. Is it? Do you see bubbles of hydrogen gas in the pool returns?
When the IC starts up, do the Salt lights flash like a RR crossing light?
Do you have automation that the IC is hooked up to?
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.
The pool does have a good level of chlorine in it. And I have seen bubbles coming from the return lines, before I changed the flow switch, but I figured the pool just needed to be back washed. When I start the swg up. No lights flash, the percentage lights, flow light, and cell light, all turn green. The salt light stays off. Do you think that as long as the cell light is on, the the swg is still working?
 

mknauss

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
Bronze Supporter
May 3, 2014
44,429
Laughlin, NV
Pool Size
6000
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
If you do not have one, I would suggest you get a salt test kit. The K1766 is the best. Since you do not have an early warning indicator for salinity, testing it regularly may be wise.

As Jim asked, do the lights on your IC go out when the pump goes off?
 

Jimrahbe

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 7, 2014
23,157
Bedford, TX
007,

Turn off your pump and any power going to the salt cell power center.. Wait a minute or so and then turn everything back on..

When you do this, look at the cell's red and green salt lights.. They should be flashing back and forth like a railroad crossing.. If they are not doing that at start up, you have a problem. The system is not doing its normal salt calibration process.. Without that calibration the cell will never report a good salt reading.

If they were flashing before you changed the flow switch, then I would go back and double check your wiring.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 

Smitty007

Member
Jun 19, 2021
5
Evansville IN
Pool Size
20000
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-20
007,

Turn off your pump and any power going to the salt cell power center.. Wait a minute or so and then turn everything back on..

When you do this, look at the cell's red and green salt lights.. They should be flashing back and forth like a railroad crossing.. If they are not doing that at start up, you have a problem. The system is not doing its normal salt calibration process.. Without that calibration the cell will never report a good salt reading.

If they were flashing before you changed the flow switch, then I would go back and double check your wiring.

Thanks,

Jim R.
Jim, the lights are flashing, the low salt light is the only one flashing red. The others turn to a solid green light, however, the salt light flashes red from a couple of minutes, before it shuts off completely, and doesn't show neither a red nor green light.
 

Jimrahbe

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 7, 2014
23,157
Bedford, TX
007,

If it flashes for the first few minutes, at least it appears that the cell is running the salt calibration routine.

I am not sure why the light is not working as it should.. :scratch:

If the cell is under warranty, then I'd have it repaired under warranty..

If the cell is not under warranty, then I would confirm that it is making chlorine by setting it to 50% output and confirming that the "Cell" light is on for about 2.5 minutes and the off for 2.5 minutes. If that is true, the cell is working and you just have an indicator problem. Worst case, you can just use it this way..

Logic says that if the cell did not have this problem before you changed the flow switch, then either the new flow switch is bad, causing the problem, or that something is wrong with the connections to the new flow switch.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 

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Smitty007

Member
Jun 19, 2021
5
Evansville IN
Pool Size
20000
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-20
007,

If it flashes for the first few minutes, at least it appears that the cell is running the salt calibration routine.

I am not sure why the light is not working as it should.. :scratch:

If the cell is under warranty, then I'd have it repaired under warranty..

If the cell is not under warranty, then I would confirm that it is making chlorine by setting it to 50% output and confirming that the "Cell" light is on for about 2.5 minutes and the off for 2.5 minutes. If that is true, the cell is working and you just have an indicator problem. Worst case, you can just use it this way..

Logic says that if the cell did not have this problem before you changed the flow switch, then either the new flow switch is bad, causing the problem, or that something is wrong with the connections to the new flow switch.

Thanks,

Jim R.
Thanks for the help
 
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