IntelliCenter Breaker Question about heater

Dave C In Ontario

Well-known member
Feb 16, 2021
48
Courtice, Ontario, Canada
Pool Size
13400
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
he Initial install was done by my pool builder and he used the same 240 VAC GFCI breaker to power both the IntelliFlo and the SWCG. I redid the wiring and just left the transformer set up for 240 VAC..

If I ever need to add another breaker, I will have to rewire the SWCG for 120 VAC..
Would you ever consider wiring a NG Heater to the same breaker as the Pump?
My Heater only uses 2amp on 220 .. and the intelliflo is 16? .. so still good for the 20amp 220 breaker
Just to note.. the Heater has a built-in shut off switch.. where as the swg doesn't... so I understand your thoughts above.. just wondering if you'd still think that way with a heater.
 
Dave,

Unless you do not have any open breaker slots, I would add a new breaker..

This has nothing to do with the amount of current the Pump breaker can supply, and more to do with being able to know what is bad when a breaker pops..

Every time you put two or more items on the same breaker, you are never sure which piece of equipment has the issue.. Not a big deal if it is a constant failure, but much harder when the failure is intermittent.

Plus, the Intelliflo manual used to say that the pump breaker should have nothing but the pump.. Now it say it is ok to add the SWCG..

I assume you want to add the heater to the load side of the Pump/Filter relay.. Unlike the SWCG, it is not a safety issue to have the heater powered when the pump is off. I don't personally see the need to have the heater run by any relay, but I doubt it will hurt anything if that is what you want to do..

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
This is my current thoughts on the Intellicenter panel setup that I am sending to my Electrician ..
Please, let me know your thoughts on it..
I really don't mind being full, because I honestly can't think of anything else I'll need...
BUT.. I also don't mind running something as 220 and then later having to change out a breaker and running 120 if forced to.
Therefore, freeing up a spot, If the same can't be accomplished by simply installing a tandem breaker.

Breaker Assignments​

1. 240v 20 amp for the pump. Can be used to power the SWCG through the Pump/Filter relay.
2. 240v 20 amp for the heater.
3. 240v breaker for system transformer ( yes we can run this as 120 if needed )
4. 120v breaker for pool lights
5. Tandem 120v Breaker
5.1 120v Future landscape lighting transformer
5.2 120v Bug Zapper/Pool cleaner (this receptacle would need to be gfci if pool cleaner is used)
6. 240v 50 amp for the Hot tub

That is 10 slots. ( and I have 1 of the tandem breakers open for my future lighting plans )

Can the Future landscape lighting transformer (5.1) be on the same breaker as # 4 instead?
heck .. can 4 and 5 be all combined into 1 ..120v breaker..?


Thanks Jim.. I was looking at all this stuff at the beginning of summer.. but I've lost some of it over the summer... too many "pops" in the sun.. :)

EDIT:
Each of those lighting options would be running off their own relay.. so Number 4 Breaker .. should be able to run power to all 3 relays?
 
Last edited:
Dave,

Looks good to me and you should be able to run all your lights off of one 120 volt breaker..

I don't see an issue with your 20 amp breaker running the IntelliFlo and the SWCG. 99% of the time the pump will only be drawing less than 200 watts..

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Dave,

Looks good to me and you should be able to run all your lights off of one 120 volt breaker..

I don't see an issue with your 20 amp breaker running the IntelliFlo and the SWCG. 99% of the time the pump will only be drawing less than 200 watts..

Thanks,

Jim R.
Thanks
My electrician did have a question.. why use 220v 20 amp for the heater. He said the amp required for the heater is approx 2 amp.
and does not need to be wired as 220 ..110 would cost less and use less room.

I picked 20amp based on some other posts I saw in tfp.
Does everyone else typically run everything as 110, except maybe the pump?
 
I would run #2 Heater as a 1p 20a GFCI breaker and #3 System transformer as a 1p 20a standard 120v breaker. First reason is because it will only use 2 spots, you wouldn't need any future tandem breakers. Second reason is a 2p 20a GFI breaker for the heater is expensive and might be hard to locate.
 
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