Installing heat pump. PVC coupler too long - Need help.

Apr 5, 2011
86
Springfield, MO
I'm a plumbing novice. Installing a pool heat pump. Installation manual recommends installation of a pressure check valve for larger pool pumps (which we have); however, no information is supplied re: installation.

Have found installation suggestions via an instruction manual of a different heat pump manufacture.

I'm installing a 5# spring check valve (per detailed recommendations of the other heat pump manufacture). In the instruction manual it states "...check valve must be installed with no bends or reducers between check valve and heater".

I'm attempting to install as recommended in manual / diagram; however, in and out heater ports are not an ideal distance apart. Check valve is too short in length and addition of a coupler results in too long of a length. See photos.

My options (inexperienced as they are):
1) Add 2 90 degree elbows to heater out port to give me more length for both check valve and coupler. This is the best solution that I can come up with. However, this would not jive with the instructions of "no bends or reducers between check valve and heater". I assume adding bends would be better on out port than in port.

2) Find a "short coupler" that will work with my scenario. Online search revealed no luck in finding such an item.

3) Trim coupler with hacksaw. I suppose this could be done, but I'm guessing this is not ideal. Don't know how badly this would compromise the integrity of plumbing.

Any suggestions? Thanks in advance for the help.
Chad
20190527_162114.jpg20190527_162150.jpg
 
The picture is too close. Are you trying to put a check valve between input and output of the heater? A check valve would not moderate flow it will just shut it off completely or prevent a backflow. So not sure what you are trying to do.
 
Normally check valves are installed after heater/before inline chlorinator/SWG, this is to prevent high concentrations of FC to enter the heater. The next most common practice is to install a bypass valve which will let you isolate heater in case of bad chemistry.
 
I'm installing a Hayward HP21404T.

This is in regards to a bypass check valve that only opens during high flow rates (over 70 GPM or so).

I'll have separate bypass valves (to isolate heater for maintenance) and a separate check valve (to prevent high Chlorine backflow into heater. I know this is not technically needed, but installing in case of any warranty issues in the future).
 

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Look for an inside coupler it might be easier to fit.

31e7pTu3nTL.jpg
 
I have never seen a spring check valve installed in the location you are showing. I have seen a hand valve where you can open and close but no spring check valve.

If you are really pressed to do this, you can find a shorter coupler in the plumbing section of the big box hardware stores.
 
I have never seen a spring check valve installed in the location you are showing. I have seen a hand valve where you can open and close but no spring check valve.

If you are really pressed to do this, you can find a shorter coupler in the plumbing section of the big box hardware stores.


AquaCal specifically calls for this check valve. Hayward recommends a bypass if over 75 GPM. From AquaCal instruction manual:

103524
 
Look for an inside coupler it might be easier to fit.

31e7pTu3nTL.jpg

Thanks. This is what I was looking for.

Options:
1) Use this coupler to install as I planned (as shown in installation manual photo).
2) Make loop upwards to accommodate additional union installation for spring check valve maintenance / replacement.

Anybody used a similar spring check valve? Don't know how likely it would be to have to remove debris from valve.

Thanks again. Chad
 
Hmm, I've seen lots of these units installed and never seen the spring check valve in that location. Many units have the check valve internally so the installer doesn't need to add one.
 

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