"Install IntelliChlor SCG cell vertically for best performance"

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LapPoolMike

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May 13, 2017
157
Saint Petersburg, FL
On my new 30K gallon pool, I've had a Pentair IC40 cell installed and running for a couple weeks now (for the 3 months prior to that I had the "dummy" pipe cell installed in its place, and was manually chlorinating). I'm still dialing the SWG in but currently with my CYA at 80ppm I'm running the SWG at 100% duty cycle from 10am to 7pm (9 hours) to maintain FC at ~ 6ppm. I would have been better off with the IC60, but the IC40 is what the builder installed and I didn't know any better then!

The issue that I need help with is that I'm finding the SWG flow indicator is intermittent at pump speeds lower than 1725 rpm. I define intermittent as I set a pump speed and watch the SWG flow indicator for 15 minutes, and if it goes red I call it intermittent. So currently I have the pump programmed to run at 100 rpm above (1825 rpm) which is using a little over 300 Watts of power.

I was hoping I could run the pump at a speed where it would use less than 200 Watts like others have, and am looking for anything I can change in the plumbing. It was not plumbed in per the installation guide recommendations (my guide is dated February 2016), there is a 90 degree elbow 6" from the SWG inlet, and a Pentair check valve 6" from the other side of that same elbow. There is also a 90 degree elbow 5" from the SWG outlet. I removed the flapper/spring assembly from the check valve but that didn't give me any improvement.

So I'm considering re-doing the plumbing to put the recommended full 12"-18" of straight pipe in front of the SWG cell inlet "for best flow sensing" (per the installation guide). But the guide also says, "Install IntelliChlor SCG cell vertically for best performance" (the title of this post).

So while I'm at it, should I install the cell vertically? Does anybody know or have a theory why this statement (to mount vertically) is in the manual?

Maybe when mounted vertically, the flow is more "laminar" which allows the flow switch to operate better? Or maybe mounting vertically allows the chlorine gas to more easily escape the cell? Just guesses, not sure. I called Pentair tech support and didn't really get a solid answer. Just wonderin' what you all think.

Thanks,
Mike
 
Mike,

I can't help with the vertical question, except to say that the SWCG manual shows one installation in the vertical position.

If me, I would do two things..

1. Get the SWCG raised up to the same level as your return valves.. (I would plumb in the horizontal, just like it is, only higher)

2. Install a heater bypass. (if you are going to have to re-plumb anyway, you might as well do it right)

My gut says moving, or repositioning, the SWCG is not going to have much effect on the flow switch operation. Assuming that is true, you could bypass the heater which will be off most your season in Florida anyway.. This should increase the flow.

My SWCG has less input pipe than yours and about the same length of output pipe.. I run at 1,200 RPM, which is 100 more than what it takes to "just close" the flow switch. My filter pressure is only about 2 lbs. at 1,200 RPM, what is yours?

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
My IC40 install needed the higher flow rate as did Mike's. After two years the temperature sensing died on the flow switch and Pentair sent me a new one. When I removed the original flow switch from the unit the flapper (flimsy part that gets pushed by the water flow to activate the switch) was bent! I carefully installed the new one and now I can run my pump at 1400 rpm (it took 1800 rpm before) to activate the flow switch. I have 12 inches straight run before the SWCG but it is horizontal. I suspect the manufacture is not real careful when installing the original flow switch.

Hope that helps!
 
mknauss said:
My IC40 install needed the higher flow rate as did Mike's. After two years the temperature sensing died on the flow switch and Pentair sent me a new one. When I removed the original flow switch from the unit the flapper (flimsy part that gets pushed by the water flow to activate the switch) was bent! I carefully installed the new one and now I can run my pump at 1400 rpm (it took 1800 rpm before) to activate the flow switch. I have 12 inches straight run before the SWCG but it is horizontal. I suspect the manufacture is not real careful when installing the original flow switch.

Hope that helps!
Click to expand...

MK,

I have sitting next to me the bottom part of an IC40 flow switch that has the magnet attached. I had an flow failure at a rent house and when I took out the cell I found that the flow switch had broken in half...

The cell was about about two years old.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Jim,
At 1200 RPM (88 Watts) filter pressure reads 3 psi, at 1825 RPM (303 Watts) reads 9 psi.

Good idea about raising up the SWCG, makes sense. The natural gas (not hooked up yet) heater is mainly intended to heat the spa only, may decide to heat the pool on Christmas Day but at 30K gallons won't be cheap! For what it's worth, pool builder said they plumbed it with flow always going through heater because it's a salt pool and they didn't want stagnant salt water sitting in the heater. I assume a heater bypass would be a valve allowing to bypass the heater, just as it sounds, I'll look into that, thanks.
 
MK,
Hmmm.....bent flow switch flapper thingy.....I'll have to look at that! This weekend I lowered the maximum speed setting of my pump but before that it was priming at full speed 3450 rpm, I wonder if that could have possibly bent the flapper? Or maybe as you say it came a little more bent from the factory.....I'll take a look at that, thanks for sharing your experience!
 
What about the "Filter Ring" plastic grid thing that inserts into the intake of the IntelliChlor cell, did you guys leave that installed in your setups? It's supposed to protect the flow sensor switch from debris in the pipes. It looked like it could restrict flow a little.
 
Yes mine is installed. It has alot of open surface area so doubt it restricts flow. But you never know ......
 

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