In NW Arkansas… Tips to close?

Oct 27, 2019
Lowell, Arkansas
Hi. I live in the NW corner of Arkansas, literally on the line of the USDA Plant Hardiness zones 6B and 6A. We have crazy temp swings.

I started trying to follow the TFP method this season, however I've gone half the season without LC. I've had a perfect pool all year using PoolMath and my Taylor test kit (last year was using strips and the Clorox App).

I opened the pool to filthy, green, cloudy water containing hundreds, if not thousands of dead earthworms. It was a multi-week process to get all the organics out. I don't want that to happen again. Last year, I just drained with normal chemical levels, I didn't SLAM. My cover is a mesh safety cover. I'll drain below the returns/LED lights, and use a sump pump with float to keep water a constant level. My current levels are:
FC: 6.0
PH: 7.0
TA: 90
CH: 250
CYA: 95
As I said, I've been trying to follow TFP method, however, no local pool store carries LC, so I've had to rely on Walmart's spotty availability along with granule and tablet chlorine, hence the high CYA. Pool Math says I'll need 7 gallons of 10% LC, so I'll convert that to whatever I can find today at the Walmarts...

I've seen different thoughts on PH for closing... 7.0, 7.2, 7.8... What's the best?

Any other thoughts or tips?

Texas Splash

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jun 22, 2014
Texas, San Antonio/Marion, South-Central Area
Pool Size
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
When closing, adjust your pH to around 7.4 - 7.6 or so. It's going to climb in cold water, but that's okay. I don't understand how you've been able to avoid the green monster with such little chlorine demand all year or from the previous SLAM, but you seem to be doing well. I would try to increase the FC close to SLAM level before you close it up for the winter. Good luck!
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