Taylor test kit shows 3200 ppm, water temp 91 degrees, chlorine levels and pH are good. IC40 shows low salt (red light). It is two days old...
IC40 low salt readings
- Thread starter SBall
- Start date
S,
What does the EasyTouch say salt level?
The IC40 has a tolerance of +/- tolerance of 500 ppm...
Also the cell only tests the salt level when it is initially turned on, and then 12 hours later.. It will not test inbetween, so if you added salt after the salt test was done, then the cell will not know until 12 hours later.
In my mind it is important to know the difference between the actual salt level (Taylor test kit) and what the cell reports.. As long as you can add salt and get the cell to report ok without the actual salt level going over 4K, then I would do it. But more than that, then most likely the thermistor in the flow switch is bad.
All that said... if the cell is only two days old, why not just call in a warranty claim and have Pentair send out a tech to fix it or replace it.
Thanks,
Jim R.
What does the EasyTouch say salt level?
The IC40 has a tolerance of +/- tolerance of 500 ppm...
Also the cell only tests the salt level when it is initially turned on, and then 12 hours later.. It will not test inbetween, so if you added salt after the salt test was done, then the cell will not know until 12 hours later.
In my mind it is important to know the difference between the actual salt level (Taylor test kit) and what the cell reports.. As long as you can add salt and get the cell to report ok without the actual salt level going over 4K, then I would do it. But more than that, then most likely the thermistor in the flow switch is bad.
All that said... if the cell is only two days old, why not just call in a warranty claim and have Pentair send out a tech to fix it or replace it.
Thanks,
Jim R.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,260
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Did it ever work?
Check the connections to the flow switch.
Was it professionally installed or DIY?
Check the connections to the flow switch.
Was it professionally installed or DIY?
I installed it. When I first installed it, I powered it up Sunday afternoon, and red light went solid...no surprise because I had not added salt. I unplugged it, added salt, waited 24 hours, tested it with the Taylor kit, got 3200 ppm reading, and then plugged the cell back in Tuesday (yesterday) morning, light went solid green. I got home yesterday afternoon, and light was solid red. Pump/IC40 are set to run for 4a-10a and 4p-10p.
I have no idea how to read the salt level on the IC40...all I get are lights. I bought the standalone power supply, so none of the communication items work.
I have no idea how to read the salt level on the IC40...all I get are lights. I bought the standalone power supply, so none of the communication items work.
Another question...I dont particularly care what the light shows, prefer to go off my test kit. Is the unit still producing chlorine? Or is that disabled when the unit thinks there is not enough salt?
The only info I find in the manual says that "chlorine efficiency is reduced" with low salt...and my interpretation is the unit is still working just fine since the salt levels are ok.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,260
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Where did you buy the cell? Was it new in the box?
Is it connected and communicating with your Easy Touch?
Is it connected and communicating with your Easy Touch?
Bell,
Well, the first thing you should do is wire the cell correctly... It won't fix your low salt issue, but it will give you more tools to work with...
The cell should be wired through the EasyTouch's Pump/Filter relay so that the cell's power supply never gets power when the pump is not running. And the cell's power supply has a com port that needs to be connected to the EasyTouch's com port so that the ET can see the cell.
You then tell the ET that you have an IntelliChlor Menu, Settings, IntelliChlor, Enable = Yes and then you can set the % from the ET..
Once the cell is talking with the ET, you go to Menu, Diagnostics, and it will tell you the cell's status and what the cell "thinks" the salt reading is...
The cell has only one low salt level light, but it has two low level conditions.. It will not work below 2600.. It will work with less output between 2600 and 2800..
If you do not already have ScreenLogic it would be a great investment.. You would have a screen that looks like this.. and makes things pretty simple.
View media item 1963
Thanks,
Jim R.
Well, the first thing you should do is wire the cell correctly... It won't fix your low salt issue, but it will give you more tools to work with...
The cell should be wired through the EasyTouch's Pump/Filter relay so that the cell's power supply never gets power when the pump is not running. And the cell's power supply has a com port that needs to be connected to the EasyTouch's com port so that the ET can see the cell.
You then tell the ET that you have an IntelliChlor Menu, Settings, IntelliChlor, Enable = Yes and then you can set the % from the ET..
Once the cell is talking with the ET, you go to Menu, Diagnostics, and it will tell you the cell's status and what the cell "thinks" the salt reading is...
The cell has only one low salt level light, but it has two low level conditions.. It will not work below 2600.. It will work with less output between 2600 and 2800..
If you do not already have ScreenLogic it would be a great investment.. You would have a screen that looks like this.. and makes things pretty simple.
View media item 1963
Thanks,
Jim R.
The cell is wired correctly. Both the heater and the IC40 are wired to the load side of the pump relay. When pump is on, IC40 and heater are hot.
There was no communication cable included, nor was there any indication that this was necessary or required. The installation of the Intellichlor power center virtually ignores the communication port, stating nothing more than one is present. I find it highly annoying that I have to troubleshoot a brand new, $600 item that is supposed to be "stand alone". LOL...part of the reason I bought this was for that exact reason...I wanted it to be a dummy item...pump turns on, IC40 turns on, chlorine is generated...that should not be difficult. I am happy with my other Pentair equipment, but so far less than pleased with the IC40.
There was no communication cable included, nor was there any indication that this was necessary or required. The installation of the Intellichlor power center virtually ignores the communication port, stating nothing more than one is present. I find it highly annoying that I have to troubleshoot a brand new, $600 item that is supposed to be "stand alone". LOL...part of the reason I bought this was for that exact reason...I wanted it to be a dummy item...pump turns on, IC40 turns on, chlorine is generated...that should not be difficult. I am happy with my other Pentair equipment, but so far less than pleased with the IC40.
Raise the salinity by a few hundred ppm and get some low voltage wire to connect the communication so that the Easytouch can tell you what salinity the cell is reading.
I'll toss another bag in. I think the water tastes very salty, and I am not loving it. Gotta admit, I far prefer non-salt water.
Ball,
My SWCG manual goes into detail about the com port connections..
Page 26 and 27...
I will be the first to admit that although Pentair makes the best equipment, they also make the worst manuals..
Thanks,
Jim R.
My SWCG manual goes into detail about the com port connections..
Page 26 and 27...
I will be the first to admit that although Pentair makes the best equipment, they also make the worst manuals..
Thanks,
Jim R.
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