Just added 9 bags of salt to my 14,000 gallon pool. I go to the IC40 and it has red no flow light on and the light for salt is flashing back and forth between OK (green) and LOW (red). My PB is on vacation so not sure what is going on. I have the pool pump running at 75gpm to ensure good circulation and water is clearly going thru the IC40. Does it take some time or some reset for it to acknowledge flow, etc?
IC40 - Just added salt today to new pool
- Thread starter MCF50
- Start date
- May 3, 2014
- 58,345
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Be sure to have the IC powered OFF whenever adding salt to the pool and for at least 24 hours after. Brush, run a robot, etc to mix the salt well. Use a Taylor K1766 test for salinity prior to starting your IC.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,405
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
It can take 24 hours for the salt to dissolve and show in your water tests.
The salt light flashing back and forth is saying the cell cannot get a good salt reading. Usually it only does that for a few minutes when the cell startup. But you should not have a NO Flow light. Something may be incorrect in your cell wiring.
You are not going to get the cell generating until the flow condition is fixed.
If you want to post pics of your equipment and valves maybe we can spot something a miss.
Please create your signature with details of your pool and equipment.
The salt light flashing back and forth is saying the cell cannot get a good salt reading. Usually it only does that for a few minutes when the cell startup. But you should not have a NO Flow light. Something may be incorrect in your cell wiring.
You are not going to get the cell generating until the flow condition is fixed.
If you want to post pics of your equipment and valves maybe we can spot something a miss.
Please create your signature with details of your pool and equipment.
Thanks. I'll let the PB deal with it...he told me to add the 9 bags of salt today so I did. The generator has been inline for almost 3 months while running the pool on chlorine. It has had the same lights since day one. Added the salt today and of course same lights. PB never said anything about turning anything off.
Piping is from pump discharge thru filter thru heater thru generator out to pool. No valves in between. I know I am getting flow downstream of the generator because there is a chlorine 'adder and when I creak the valve open water goes thru it.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,345
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
OK == the issue with having the SWCG powered on when adding salt a high salinity slug of water can pass through the cell and damage it. The Pentair IC series has protections built in, but not a good idea to test them.
The flow light being Red shows you do not have sufficient flow through the IC. Have the PB deal with it.
You do need a proper test kit for salinity. In your area, you get rain. And with the rain the pool will overflow. And thus you will need to add salt. You do not want to rely on the SWCG to tell you the real salinity in the pool.
The flow light being Red shows you do not have sufficient flow through the IC. Have the PB deal with it.
You do need a proper test kit for salinity. In your area, you get rain. And with the rain the pool will overflow. And thus you will need to add salt. You do not want to rely on the SWCG to tell you the real salinity in the pool.
Last edited:
Thanks. Could it possibly be a setting in the control panel that is sending an off signal to the generator?
50,
When the IC40 is powered on it goes through a calibration process.. When this happens, you get that railroad crossing like flashing lights.. It will stay that way for up to five minutes.. That said, unless the flow light is green it will never calibrate.
Show us a pic of the cell and surrounding pipes..
There is no setting in the control panel that will actually shut the cell off..
Thanks,
Jim R.
When the IC40 is powered on it goes through a calibration process.. When this happens, you get that railroad crossing like flashing lights.. It will stay that way for up to five minutes.. That said, unless the flow light is green it will never calibrate.
Show us a pic of the cell and surrounding pipes..
There is no setting in the control panel that will actually shut the cell off..
Thanks,
Jim R.
Thanks. I'm not messing with it....i'm just going to let the pool run and feed some chlorine into it until the PB fixes it. If I destroy the generator they can replace that too......just filled pool again today for the 3rd time in three months because of issues (that as far as I am concerned have not been resolved to my satisfaction) and I am tired of dealing with the pool
I assume as the plaster and everything is at least 2 months old, having salt circulating won't hurt anything? I'll brush and clean pool and use chlorine feed to keep chlorine and Ph balanced till PB comes out.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,345
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
You are fine there. Do you have your own test kit? Can you fill out your signature?
Yes..have test kit. Will fill out signature once I gather all information. Thanks!!!!!!
You all think it's possible that over the last couple months it just got dirty? I have getting PLENTY of flow out returns. No problem there. You think I should take it out and acid wash it per instructions or just let PB come take care of it?
- May 3, 2014
- 58,345
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
One last thought...I am not going to replace the flow switch, but with the SWCG off, it seems pretty straightforward to get access to it while the unit is installed. Just take off plastic cap and then you can unscrew it. Possible they flow switch is not installed correctly (arrows not pointing in correct direction) or maybe it just 'stuck'. Is it worth me taking a look at the flow switch while the SWCG is installed?
- Jul 17, 2019
- 3,708
- Pool Size
- 13000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
On a new install covered by warranty, I wouldnt touch a thing. You dont want to get blamed for it not working properly.
Randrx2
Bronze Supporter
- Dec 13, 2018
- 436
- Pool Size
- 30000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Is the arrow on the outside cell pointed in the correct flow direction? Have you tried turning the cell off for a minute than back on?
That would be the extent of what I would do if this was new and under warranty.
Tell your builder to fix ASAP, or you will back charge them for the chlorine you have to use! Haha!
That would be the extent of what I would do if this was new and under warranty.
Tell your builder to fix ASAP, or you will back charge them for the chlorine you have to use! Haha!
- Oct 25, 2015
- 5,139
- Pool Size
- 25000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
M,
Congrats on the new pool and welcome to TFP!
It's definitely a good idea to wait for the PB to get back. In the meantime it would also be a good time to post a set of test results here. The lifespan of your cell can be extended by following TFP recommendations for water balance. I've done this for my pool and have 2nd season behind now. It's been running at 40% for 2 years and still no signs it needs cleaning. I keep all readings within TFP recommendations and adjust to keep slightly negative CSI. Also if you don't have one yet a Taylor K-1766 salt test is the best way to measure salt. The readings from the salt unit are not very accurate.
Chris
Congrats on the new pool and welcome to TFP!
It's definitely a good idea to wait for the PB to get back. In the meantime it would also be a good time to post a set of test results here. The lifespan of your cell can be extended by following TFP recommendations for water balance. I've done this for my pool and have 2nd season behind now. It's been running at 40% for 2 years and still no signs it needs cleaning. I keep all readings within TFP recommendations and adjust to keep slightly negative CSI. Also if you don't have one yet a Taylor K-1766 salt test is the best way to measure salt. The readings from the salt unit are not very accurate.
Chris
Thanks all. The only arrow I see if the cover that goes over the flowswitch and that arrow is pointing in the correct direction. Now looking at the switch itself, there is a raised line on either side of the nut and one in the middle (that is UPSTREAM of flow). I wouldn't put it past the idiot plumbers to have put the switch in back Rear backwards. I will post pics before touching, but I have no concerns turning the flowswitch 180 degrees if the idiots put it in backwards. I bet anything that is what it is...
50,
The switch comes factory installed, so I would doubt the switch itself is in backwards.. But, there is a 50/50 chance that the whole cell is in backwards, or the flow switch is just bad.
Show us some pics of your equipment pad..
Thanks,
Jim R.
The switch comes factory installed, so I would doubt the switch itself is in backwards.. But, there is a 50/50 chance that the whole cell is in backwards, or the flow switch is just bad.
Show us some pics of your equipment pad..
Thanks,
Jim R.
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