IC20 Red Low Salt

[Soccernutt10]

I am working on my in-laws pool at the end of last year their low salt light was red. Since it was still producing chlorine he left it alone and would throw a bag of salt in Every once and awhile. This year upon startup its red again and after doing research I replaced the flow switch. Upon initial start up after replacement the IC20 went through the red green flashing sequence then settled on green salt light. After a few hours the red low salt light retuned. I added some more salt and let it set a few days and rechecked it. It still had a red low salt light but everything else was still green.
When I tested the water there was zero chlorine And the salt level was fine which got me searching again. This was a replacement cell for a original unit with a 3/09 build date and their IC20 only has a small box attached to the wall near the filter. The cell that I’m working with now has a build date of 07/2016 so I’m wondering if it’s a board that’s gone bad as it seems not to be producing chlorine and still has the low salt light While the other lights are green.

 

[ajw22]

Welcome to TFP.

When a SWG indicates low salt you have to independently test the salt preferably using the K-1766 Taylor Salt Test or Salt Test Strips - Aqua Chek

Only once you know the actual salt level versus what the IC20 is saying can you begin diagnosing the problem. A failure of the temperature sensor in the flow switch will give incorrect salt indications.

See Pentair Intellichlor ICXX SWG - Further Reading for how to display the temperature the cell thinks the water is.

 

[Soccernutt10]

Welcome to TFP.

When a SWG indicates low salt you have to independently test the salt preferably using the K-1766 Taylor Salt Test or Salt Test Strips - Aqua Chek

Only once you know the actual salt level versus what the IC20 is saying can you begin diagnosing the problem. A failure of the temperature sensor in the flow switch will give incorrect salt indications.

See Pentair Intellichlor ICXX SWG - Further Reading for how to display the temperature the cell thinks the water is.

I took it up to Leslie’s Pools and had it tested. They told me it was high in salt. I had added more thinking it was an accurate reading.

Pentair IntelliChlor Power Center Surge Board 521034Z

 

[ajw22]

We don't put a lot of faith in the accuracy of Leslie pool tests. The actual salt level helps in the diagnostics. The IC20 does not shutdown due to high salt.

Check the temperature sensor in the flow switch.

 

[Jimrahbe]

10,

I really doubt that the Surge card has anything to do with the cell's red and green salt level lights, but it is the Cell's power supply..

The surge card supplies about 40 volts DC to the cell. You can measure it with a voltmeter. It might be possible that the DC voltage is low, but normally this will cause the cell to just shut off.

When the cell is working, the voltage will be about 35 volts, when the cell is not generating chlorine the voltage is about 39 volts.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[Soccernutt10]

We don't put a lot of faith in the accuracy of Leslie pool tests. The actual salt level helps in the diagnostics. The IC20 does not shutdown due to high salt.

Check the temperature sensor in the flow switch.

how do I do that? When I press and hold the more button all the light flash and when it’s done it ends at 20% when I press more again it’s at 60%. The thermometer hanging from the pool ladder says it’s about 65.

 

[Soccernutt10]

10,

I really doubt that the Surge card has anything to do with the cell's red and green salt level lights, but it is the Cell's power supply..

The surge card supplies about 40 volts DC to the cell. You can measure it with a voltmeter. It might be possible that the DC voltage is low, but normally this will cause the cell to just shut off.

When the cell is working, the voltage will be about 35 volts, when the cell is not generating chlorine the voltage is about 39 volts.

Thanks,

Jim R.

Where do I measure this?

 

[Soccernutt10]

Where do I measure this?

I just went back and looked at it again. I was wrong the power light for the cell is not on. I installed the old IC20 and it is reading the salt level as high and cell power light is green.

 

[ajw22]

Which cell did you post a picture of?

 

[mknauss]

Your picture shows the IC sensing low salt (less than 2600 ppm). Test your water with a K1766 salinity test kit. Let us know your results.

 

[Soccernutt10]

Which cell did you post a picture of?

The cell that I’m having issues with. The 7/2016 one

 

[Soccernutt10]

Your picture shows the IC sensing low salt (less than 2600 ppm). Test your water with a K1766 salinity test kit. Let us know your results.

I had it tested at Leslie’s and it was high. When I Re-installed the old cell after it ran through its sequence it showed that the salt was high too.
they were out of test strips when I was there I have some coming from amazon.

 

[Soccernutt10]

Turns out the replacement switch was a Chinese knock off. I took the flow switch out of the old unit as I know it’s good and replaced it. I still get the low salt light.

 

[Jimrahbe]

10,

What does that tell you? The old one works, the new one does not, and swapping the flow switch did not help???

Jim R.

 

[Soccernutt10]

10,

What does that tell you? The old one works, the new one does not, and swapping the flow switch did not help???

Jim R.

I wanted to rule out the power supply board and confirm the high salt reading that Leslie‘s told me.
No swapping the flow switch didn’t help. Still low salt and no cell light on.

 

[Jimrahbe]

10,

I was just you, I didn't need an answer... I think your troubleshooting process was spot on..

It tells me your newer cell is bad..

Jim R.

 

[Soccernutt10]

10,

I was just you, I didn't need an answer... I think your troubleshooting process was spot on..

It tells me your newer cell is bad..

Jim R.

Thank you for all the help. That was my fear. My in-laws are on a fixed income so I was hoping for a cheep fix.