IC20 not working..

[DiAnnpool]

Somewhat same problem I'm having. Salt level good. Salt and Flow lights GREEN. But Intellichlor IC20 not producing chlorine.
Temp of pool = good. Salt level = good. Replaced cell last year. Pool on HIGH speed. when I try to hue the 'boost' to get production up to 80% or any % at this point, no lights. It's like the unit itself is working, but not producing chlorine. ANY HELP would be appreciated. Thanks

 

[Jimrahbe]

D,

How big is your pool in gallons?

What color is the water?

How long do you run the pump each day?

Do you have a standalone IC20 or is it part of an automation system?

Does the "Cell" light come on? Note that at 50% output, the cell light should be on for about 2.5 minutes and then off for about 2.5 minutes.

How are you determining that the cell is not producing chlorine?

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[DiAnnpool]

Pool is 20,000 gal.
Runn pump 8 hours each day.
IC 20 is standalone.
"Cell" light IS NOT on. Salt light = green. Good flow = green.
I've NEVER seen the lights on the output bar ever on. Can't 'boost' output either.
Testing water = no chlorine.

Thanks for the help. DiAnn

 

[DiAnnpool]

Forgot.....water color is great. Clear and blue!

 

[Jimrahbe]

DiAnn,

If none of the sanitizer output lights are on, then the cell thinks that you don't want to make chlorine.

When the cell is making chlorine the "Cell" light will on.. If none of the sanitizer output lights are on the Cell light will never be on.

As long at the salt and flow lights are good, I can't think of anything that you could be doing that would cause the problem you are having.. I assume that you slide the cover back and press the more button.. If nothing happens when you do that, the cell will never work..

Sounds like a bad cell to me..

Note that a 20K cell in a 20K pool, running 8 hours a day, won't generate much chlorine even when working great. Even when running at 100% your IC20 will only make about 1.4 ppm of FC over an 8 hour period. We always recommend the cell be rated for at least 2 x the volume of the pool.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[DiAnnpool]

DiAnn,

If none of the sanitizer output lights are on, then the cell thinks that you don't want to make chlorine.

When the cell is making chlorine the "Cell" light will on.. If none of the sanitizer output lights are on the Cell light will never be on.

As long at the salt and flow lights are good, I can't think of anything that you could be doing that would cause the problem you are having.. I assume that you slide the cover back and press the more button.. If nothing happens when you do that, the cell will never work..

Sounds like a bad cell to me..

Note that a 20K cell in a 20K pool, running 8 hours a day, won't generate much chlorine even when working great. Even when running at 100% your IC20 will only make about 1.4 ppm of FC over an 8 hour period. We always recommend the cell be rated for at least 2 x the volume of the pool.

Thanks,

Jim R.

Thanks Jim. Yes, I slide the cover back on the "more buttons" ! When I do, the lights flash across the bottom row and that's it. We replaced the cell late fall of last year. Took it apart thinking maybe the blades were calcified, but they were clean as could be. I'll try running it for 12 hours a day and see what happens. In the meantime, I've put chlorine tablets in the strainer bucket. Is that a problem?

 

[Jimrahbe]

DiAnn,

The lights "flash"??? Just so that we are all on the same page.. If the cell is set to zero output, and you push the more button once, the first light should turn on and flash, push the more button again and the 1st and second lights flash.. etc, until you get to 20% and then flashing stops..

Basically the flashing means that you are below 20%.. This is so you can tell the difference between the first light being 2% or the first light being 20% . The older units did not flash and started at 20%.. The newer units start at 2% thru 10% (flashing lights 1 thru 5) and then start over at 20% to 100% using the same lights 1 thru 5.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[DiAnnpool]

DiAnn,

The lights "flash"??? Just so that we are all on the same page.. If the cell is set to zero output, and you push the more button once, the first light should turn on and flash, push the more button again and the 1st and second lights flash.. etc, until you get to 20% and then flashing stops..

Basically the flashing means that you are below 20%.. This is so you can tell the difference between the first light being 2% or the first light being 20% . The older units did not flash and started at 20%.. The newer units start at 2% thru 10% (flashing lights 1 thru 5) and then start over at 20% to 100% using the same lights 1 thru 5.

Thanks,

Jim R.

Changed schedule to run 12 hours. Will try the "boost" button again to see if with 1 button push it will go to 20%. When I hit it now...lights on that panel just flash across boost panel and then go up the panel. After a short time salt indicator and good flow indicator go back to green. Thank you so much for your help. I really appreciate it.

 

[Jimrahbe]

DiAnn,

Do not hold the more button down..

You are supposed to push it once and let go.. Sounds to me like you are holding it down and sending the IC20 into a diagnostic test mode. Try pushing the more button once and let up.. Then push it again and let up, etc...

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[mknauss]

We replaced the cell late fall of last year.

You have a 2 year warranty. If you determine it is a bad cell, call Pentair for a warranty claim.

 

[DiAnnpool]

DiAnn,

Do not hold the more button down..

You are supposed to push it once and let go.. Sounds to me like you are holding it down and sending the IC20 into a diagnostic test mode. Try pushing the more button once and let up.. Then push it again and let up, etc...

Thanks,

Jim R.

I do hold it down for 3 seconds! Will try 1 push and see what happens. And YES I do have the warranty information. Thanks again.

 

[DiAnnpool]

Thanks for all the help. Intellichlor seems to be working fine now!