I think it’s time for me to use a phosphate remover

[Malabars]

My water chemistry is balanced within the TFP recommended SWG levels (except for the CYA, water dilution has dropped to 50. I have instant conditioner to raise it back up after I complete this current slam)

I’ve had to SLAM my pool 3 times over the last couple months. The issue? I turn off the SWCG and forget to turn it back on . I go away for a couple days, and the chlorine drops below the target, and organics start to grow... FAST. They love that Florida sun. The pool is NOT green. It becomes cloudy and the walls get a little slimy. Chlorine gets consumed fast. The SLAM is the only thing that gets it r

When I first got the pool, I bought a bunch of recommended chemicals from Leslie’s (oops). One of them being a phosphate remover due to a high level of phosphates. However, I found trouble free pool before ever using the “NoPhos” that I purchased. I just ordered a Taylor phosphate test so that I can get some accurate results.

I have read the section on phosphates on TFP. I believe I am one of the cases who should try and get the phosphate level down. Now, I can’t return this nophos, and I’d hate for it to go to waste. I snapped a photo of the bottle. It says “contains: lanthanum chloride hydrate.” I don’t see anything about a clarifier. Do you guys think I should go ahead and use this product? Or eat the loss.

thanks.

 

[Newdude]

Hey Malabars and belated Welcome !!!

Test your water. If the phosphates are high, they usually won’t matter, and as you said, hitting minimum FC made them matter.

But you have the jug so it’s not going to cost you anything to add it.

You could also sell it on FB marketplace, CL or the OfferUp app.

But stay away from minimum and you’ll stop having the problems. I’m talking never. Ever…..

 

[mknauss]

The use of the product will cloud your pool water and will require you to clean the cartridge filter once or twice, regardless if the pressure rises, to remove the phosphate build up on them, or they will just get put back in to the pool. That product is a watered down version of quality products so do not expect miracles from it.

 

[Malabars]

Hey Malabars and belated Welcome !!!

Test your water. If the phosphates are high, they usually won’t matter, and as you said, hitting minimum FC made them matter.

But you have the jug so it’s not going to cost you anything to add it.

You could also sell it on FB marketplace, CL or the OfferUp app.

But stay away from minimum and you’ll stop having the problems. I’m talking never. Ever…..
View attachment 361569

Ugh I know. I feel so dumb each time it happens. I’m moving to the “slow and low” swcg method with the pump and cell running 24/7.

 

[Newdude]

I’m moving to the “slow and low” swcg method with the pump and cell running 24/7.

At ‘pool school’ when they handed me the keys to my pool, the tech was going over the details of runtimes and %s. He offhandedly remarked ‘or just run the dang thing 24/7 and never care again’. Wait !!!! What ??? I want that. I SO want that !!!! Lol. I had 2 ‘times’. Summertime and winter time. It served me so well I sourced and located my SWG and VS pump before I inked the contract of my new build. I cannot overstate how well it worked.

 

[johngault007]

I have a 2 speed pump and the "Pool School" guy recommended a 12 hour run time...I politely told him I'm doing a 12/12 hour split on high low during peak summer so the SWG keeps running. I almost have it dialed in somewhere around 45-50%...but all pools and SWGs are different. But one thing is for sure, it keeps me from getting to that scary minimum FC.

 

[Newdude]

politely told him I'm doing a 12/12 hour split on high low during peak summer so the SWG keeps running

Why don’t you just run low speed for 24 hours ? It should be plenty of filtering.

 

[johngault007]

Why don’t you just run low speed for 24 hours ? It should be plenty of filtering.

I probably will after the first 30 days and once I get a feel for everything. Right now the pool is only 2 weeks old and I'm still getting used to how everything works, and slowly getting CYA and calcium up to level every couple days, so I feel more comfortable with the increased circulation pool side during the day.

 

[Newdude]

Right now the pool is only 2 weeks old and I'm still getting used to how everything works

Gotcha. Trial and Error away my good friend.

 

[Orion7319]

Ugh I know. I feel so dumb each time it happens. I’m moving to the “slow and low” swcg method with the pump and cell running 24/7.

That worked for me!

 

[Malabars]

I have a 2 speed pump and the "Pool School" guy recommended a 12 hour run time...I politely told him I'm doing a 12/12 hour split on high low during peak summer so the SWG keeps running. I almost have it dialed in somewhere around 45-50%...but all pools and SWGs are different. But one thing is for sure, it keeps me from getting to that scary minimum FC.

Yep! It doesn’t take long once the minimum chlorine is reached before stuff starts growing. The pool guy wasn’t wrong with his recommendation, but it definitely leaves room for error (I’m a classic example). If you tend to go away a lot or be forgetful, running the pump and swg 24/7 is definitely the safest bet to keep chlorine levels right. I am now keeping my 2hp pump on low and running the swcg at 25% power 24/7, and it keeps up fine.

There have been times where I had to run the swcg 24/7 at 100% power and it could barely keep up. That told me something was wrong, and the SLAM process fixed it right up.