I think I have a Problem

[regas14]

Hello,

I live in the Dallas-Ft. Worth area. Next week will be 1 year since we filled our pool/spa. It's beautiful and we love it. But I think there is something wrong with the plumbing. I'm afraid that the builder didn't use the correct size PVC and as a result, there is too much resistance in the lines not allowing for proper flow. How can I have this checked or figure it out.

The Pool plan is attached - with all of the technical details. Here are a few highlights:

• 31,000 Gallons
• 2 Filter Pump Suction Drains
• 5 Wall Returns
• 1 Spa Floor Return/Fountain
• 1 Tanning Ledge Bubbler
• Waterfalls Run off of separate drains & a separate pump
• Distance from Main Drains to Equipment is probably about 100' with at least a couple of 90-degree and a couple of 45 degree turns. One of the Skimmers is maybe 10 feet closer and one is 20 feet further.
• The 5 returns are probably at 90', 90', 110', 110', 120' with the similar profile of turns
• Jandy 2.7hp VS Main Pump
• Jandy DEV60 Filter

Some of the symptoms that are concerning to me are:

• High Filter Pressure - 28 PSI immediately following a backwash and usually 30-32 within a week. My pool service company is backwashing almost every week when they come and have cleaned the filters twice already this Spring.
• Algae - usually within 3-4 days of my weekly pool service, there is algae in a couple of areas of the pool - always in the same areas.
• Low Flow - Right after a backwash the pool flows OK but it quickly slows down by 25-30% judging by the wall returns and spill over from the spa.

The plumbing that is above ground appears to be 2" maximum (measures just under 2.5" O.D.). When the plan calls for 2.5" Filter Pump Suction, does that mean that each of the suction pipes should be 2.5"? Suction side is on the left (Main Drain, Near Skimmer, Far Skimmer, Spa Suction). Any thoughts or ideas for me?

Pictures from the build stage below:

 

[Texas Splash]

Along with your equipment details above, are there any elevation changes to be concerned with? From your description, I believe much of your filter issues are algae-related, thereby clogging your filter almost immediately with organic material. A SLAM Process is definitely warranted. But just to make sure about your equipment concerns, I'll call upon our hydraulic experts @mas985 and @JamesW for their take on it.

 

[Jimrahbe]

14,

Your main problem is algae clogging your filter and not because of the size of your plumbing... You don't have a mechanical problem, you have a chemistry problem...-

If you have algae that you can see, then you have a ton more that you can't see..

How are you chlorinating your pools and what are your test numbers..

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[JamesW]

Can you show the whole system?

What speed are you running the pump at?

What are the chemistry readings?

If you're getting algae, that's going to clog up the filter.

If they're backwashing the filter every week, something is wrong.

Most likely, the plumbing is not the problem.

 

[sktn77a]

First, SLAM the pool until your overnight chlorine loss is negligable. That will reduce the frequent backwashing due to algae. You may need to backwash daily for the first week. While the chlorine is doing it's thing make sure your pool is balanced (correct chemistry). Once you have these issues corrected, if you still have problems with high pressures and low flow, get your poolbuilder back to figure it out.

 

[regas14]

Thanks so much for the quick replies - you're making me feel a little better. Chemistry will be easier to fix than plumbing!

Due to some initial plaster issues, I use a pool company to maintain the chemicals and provide weekly service. Our tech was just here and added a pretty high dose of chlorine so I'll wait until tomorrow or Saturday to test and report back the levels. The pool service company is actually the son of the guy who created Orenda Technologies - I guess a bit of a different, more natural, minimalistic approach to the chemicals. They have been really responsive and working hard to try to rectify my issues, but we're about 4 months in to them taking care of the pool and still having the same challenges.

To answer a few other questions:

• The pool equipment pad is probably about 2 feet in elevation above the surface of the water so 10-11' above the main drains at the bottom of the pool.
• The pool service company doses liquid chlorine each week and an in-line tablet feeder to maintain throughout the week.
• The pump runs 12 hr/day (9:00 AM - 9:00 PM) at 3450 rpm (full)

More to come...

 

[Jimrahbe]

As long as you let someone else maintain your pool, your problems will continue.. The idea that you can have a "more natural, minimalist approach to the chemicals" is just a pipe dream.. Somewhat proven by the fact that you have algae now.

What size eyeballs does your pool returns have?

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[Flying Tivo]

You dont need to go full throttle on the pump. Try 1000 rpms, you just need to move the water not create excess pressure.

 

[JamesW]

The pump runs 12 hr/day (9:00 AM - 9:00 PM) at 3450 rpm (full)

Yikes! That's crazy. There's no reason to run so fast. You really should not need to exceed 1725 unless you're operating a heater or solar. Even then, you never need full speed. I would set the maximum speed limit to about 2,450 as a safety.

For normal operation with no heater, all you need is enough flow to get good skimmer action over the weirs. You might be able to get good flow at 1,200 rpm.

For heating, you only need enough flow to meet the minimum flow requirements of the heater plus about 10 gpm for margin.

At this point, I would suggest a SLAM, break down the filter and clean it well and keep rpm down.

If everything is done correctly, you should only need to backwash once or twice a season and do a breakdown at the end of the year.

Note that a grid style de filter can get an ok backwash. A cartridge style de filter has to be broken down and cleaned.

 

[mchimes]

I came across Orenda after seeing their start up videos on Youtube and they seem like a very science oriented company... they have their own pool app kind of like Pool Math to maintain LSI. I was impressed. I'm surprised that they couldn't get your chemistry fixed after 4 months. Another reason to DIY.

 

[PoolGate]

As long as you let someone else maintain your pool, your problems will continue.. The idea that you can have a "more natural, minimalist approach to the chemicals" is just a pipe dream.. Somewhat proven by the fact that you have algae now.

What size eyeballs does your pool returns have?

Thanks,

Jim R.

This is the correct answer. You need to make a decision. Have the same issues you are having now, forever. Or, take over your own pool maintenance and have a trouble-free pool.