I opened my pool for the first time in 2years

[tado921]

Tad from D'ville checking back in.

Just to help clear up a few things, the only to tests you need to be concerned with right now are pH and Chlorine. None of the other parameters are going to cause any harm in the short term, and they can be corrected once the water is clear. Get the pH in range first, then you can begin the SLAM process. Remember the term "range"...you don't have to be exactly at 7.6, anywhere between 7.2 and 7.8 is perfectly fine. This applies to most of the other parameters as well, your TA is fine anywhere from 80-120, but if it is low at the moment don't sweat it. Again, it can be adjusted later. I saw in a previous post you were thinking of adding clarifier...I wouldn't just yet, let's give the SLAM a chance to work.

If your water is still cloudy then you should be running the pump 24X7. You might have to backwash more often, but this will let up after a few days.

My offer still stands, if you would like me to come by and take a look to verify you are heading in the right direction I will be glad to do so. I remember when I got started with this, it was a nervous time. Until the water actually cleared up I was never quite sure I was doing it right.

Tad

 

[chanelvaps]

Hi Swamp W
YEEESS I am nervous about this. Really a fish out of water. Leak is fixed and it was the gasket. I did not run the pump last night because ..well..I guess I thought I was supposed to shut it off. Had appointments all morning. Today's look see shows tons of stuff in the bottom still although the water is getting clearer because now I can see the stuff down there. I just vacuumed it all out. Filling up the water level because I am sure I will be vacuuming in the morning again.
Not sure what to do next.
Just so I make sure I have this straight then:
Slamming does not necessarily mean bombarding it with chlorine but means added chlorine and testing until I get the chlorine level to line up with the CYA level?
So I guess I do not do that until I have all sludge removed from bottom?

Hi channelvaps. Thanks for the pm. Glad to hear you've got the leak solved and happy you're ready to start slamming again!

Just to refresh this a.m., when you test this a.m., can you also tell us how the water looks and if you appear to have gotten most of the debris removed previously?

Once your ph is at an acceptable level, eg 7.2 or higher, forget about any other additions etc. until you've nailed the slam and pass the overnight chlorine loss test. When you're slamming, ph cannot read accurately anyway, and anything else is a distraction from the prime objective

I know you're nervous about this, but after this slam, you are going be happily in control of your pool, so no fear

The key to being done with this is once you calculate your slam number based on your test results, to be merciless in keeping the number at slam level without letting it drop - that is the fastest way forward with no backsliding so make sure you have enough bleach/liquid chlorine on hand so you don't run out.

I can't wait to see the results!

Total side note to kiss4afrog - re:

Borates/boric acid/boron is actually used as an agricultural supplement due to its low toxicity and ant-fungal properties. In the dose used in a pool, eg 50 ppm, (.005%) it really shouldn't be at a level to hurt plants. However, there are other things that plants may not love, such as the salinity from added salt or even the byproduct salinity from using chlorine etc. With borates, its all in the concentration. That's why it is safely used in soaps/shampoos/eyewash/lotions/ etc. I just didn't want anyone extrapolating that a pool level of borates is particularly toxic. Cheers.

 

[chanelvaps]

Do I even need to test it or see if I need to add anything as long as I have stuff in the bottom? I have to wait and let it all settle again before I can vacuum again. How about clarifier? Seems I remember that clarifier helps the little particles bond and that might clear up the cloudiness.
Borax really seems to have helped things

 

[Beens]

SLAM stands for Shock Level And Maintain.

Your shock level is based on your cya. The cya/chlorine chart shows you what the maintenance levels and the shock levels are for each level of cya.

Slamming is when you add enough bleach to reach that shock level then test as often as every hour so that as the algae and whatever else uses up the chlorine you can bump it back up to that same shock level. It's an ongoing process. At first you'll have to test often and re dose (to bring back to shock level) then little by little as the water starts to get better you'll find that you can spread out the testing because your chlorine level will start to hold longer.

The key is to do your best to keep it at shock level for your cya by adding chlorine as often as necessary to keep it there.

The more gunk you can get out the faster it will go. Keep working on getting any solids out of there but I'd start now as long as there isn't a whole trash can worth of leaves in the bottom. ..

 

[Kiss4aFrog]

Beens:"The key is to do your best to keep it at shock level for your cya by adding chlorine as often as necessary to keep it there."

He is spot on. It's all about MAINTAINING that SLAM level as best you can. Test and adjust each hour if possible and if needed and twice a day if it's all you can do. The better YOU do at maintaining that SLAM level the faster and cheaper (less chlorine) your SLAM will be.

When you first start the pool will eat chlorine like crazy which is why we sound crazy talking about testing every hour but you'll see that FC drop like a rock. Each time you bring it back up or a point or two over you'll see the FC last a little bit longer. Then you can test every two hours, four hours .... you will start to see a pattern in how long and how much you're adding and you set your own pace.

 

[chanelvaps]

Hi Tad
Thanks for checking in. Yeah stupidly turned the pump off last night and should not have. I am listening to too many people and everyone has good intentions I am sure but maybe is not aware of where I am with it. Anyway it is on tonight.
It does seem like stuff settles more on the ground when the pump is off so that might have been a good thing.
Ok so if all that really matters at this point (before SLAM) is PH and Chlorine is it alright to just use that simple test that comes in the blue box (just for PH and Chlorine)
From all the stuff that was still on the bottom this morning I might still be vacuuming all day tomorrow. No Slamming until all vacuuming complete right? Not sure how I will know if the deep end bottom is free of debris if I cannot see the bottom of the pool due to cloudiness.
If I am have not progressed by Thursday I might take you up on your offer. I am near 278 and Hwy 92 in Dallas. Really close to Hiram.

Tad from D'ville checking back in.

Just to help clear up a few things, the only to tests you need to be concerned with right now are pH and Chlorine. None of the other parameters are going to cause any harm in the short term, and they can be corrected once the water is clear. Get the pH in range first, then you can begin the SLAM process. Remember the term "range"...you don't have to be exactly at 7.6, anywhere between 7.2 and 7.8 is perfectly fine. This applies to most of the other parameters as well, your TA is fine anywhere from 80-120, but if it is low at the moment don't sweat it. Again, it can be adjusted later. I saw in a previous post you were thinking of adding clarifier...I wouldn't just yet, let's give the SLAM a chance to work.

If your water is still cloudy then you should be running the pump 24X7. You might have to backwash more often, but this will let up after a few days.

My offer still stands, if you would like me to come by and take a look to verify you are heading in the right direction I will be glad to do so. I remember when I got started with this, it was a nervous time. Until the water actually cleared up I was never quite sure I was doing it right.

Tad

 

[chanelvaps]

Beans and Frog
There is not trash cans full of leaves...this pool had a lip lock cover on it for two years. I think what I am vacuuming up is dead algae. Little black particles everywhere. Looks like coffee grounds. So based on what you are telling me I really have to make myself available for a day or two straight? No going off to the mall and pretending I do not have a pool in crisis mode huh?
So I am going to vacuum all day tomorrow and start the SLAM Thursday because I can be home all day Thursday and Friday.

SLAM stands for Shock Level And Maintain.

Your shock level is based on your cya. The cya/chlorine chart shows you what the maintenance levels and the shock levels are for each level of cya.

Slamming is when you add enough bleach to reach that shock level then test as often as every hour so that as the algae and whatever else uses up the chlorine you can bump it back up to that same shock level. It's an ongoing process. At first you'll have to test often and re dose (to bring back to shock level) then little by little as the water starts to get better you'll find that you can spread out the testing because your chlorine level will start to hold longer.

The key is to do your best to keep it at shock level for your cya by adding chlorine as often as necessary to keep it there.

The more gunk you can get out the faster it will go. Keep working on getting any solids out of there but I'd start now as long as there isn't a whole trash can worth of leaves in the bottom. ..

- - - Updated - - -

So this sentence:

Beens:"The key is to do your best to keep it at shock level for your cya by adding chlorine as often as necessary to keep it there."

Means I use this guide (below) to compare CYA/Chlorine and check it every hour to make sure it is where it is supposed to be and if not add gallons of bleach and keep doing that throughout the day
http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/128-chlorine-cya-chart-slam-shock

- - - Updated - - -

Ok I think I am getting it. Getting revved up because it is starting to make some sense...maybe.

 

[Beens]

Yes! You're getting it!

As far as dedicating a day or two to the beginning of the SLAM...it's a really good way to get off to a really good start. If you start when you have a day that you can babysit the pool you will probably be able to make progress quicker than if you just start and only dose twice a day. Believe it or not some people have even set alarms to get up in the middle of the night to test and dose! It just depends on how much you want to put in to it and if you want to try to do it as fast as possible.

Either way it takes time and it will work if you keep at it.


You will only have to test your chlorine during this process.

I looked back to find your reported CYA a few pages ago is 30

So...a review...here's what you do...


Adjust your ph to 7.2 (if it's already there and I think it may be, then you're set for that!)

Look at the chlorine/cya chart http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/128-chlorine-cya-chart-slam-shock

You'll see it says for a CYA of 30 your minimum FC is 2 and target is 4. Those are your maintenance numbers...that's when you have a sparkling pool and you're in happy mode.

The next column is shock FC which for a CYA of 30 is **12**

This is the number you will be (M)aintaining for the S.L.A.M.

Using the pool math calculator you'll put in your current FC number and put 12 in that target box to find out how much bleach you need to add to get to 12. (Make sure you have the percent correct for whatever bleach/chlorine you're using. It will be on the bottle. Most of the major brands of bleach are 8.25% (Walmart, target and clorox brand)

Make sure your pump is running 24/7 for the entire time you SLAM.

You'll pour your bleach slowly in front of the flowing water of the return so it can mix in and then wait an hour and test. You can even test in 30 minutes for that first addition if you want. That's when you'll see how close you are to 12. At first it will probably not hit 12. Algae and other yuckies will eat up the chlorine really quickly at first so don't be discouraged if you test and it's low. That's why you tested so soon. So you can keep adding until you hit your target.

That's the biggest thing. Test, dose back to shock level, wait an hour, test, dose back to shock level.

Pair it with brushing and vacuuming the pool to keep the water circulated and keep that filter busy!

Everything you need is in the SLAM article. I know I didn't mention every step so definitely follow what that article says! That's the rules! lol

Post any questions here and someone much smarter than me will probably answer first. lol

My reply earlier was from my phone on a break at work and I'm rushing a bit now because it's past my bedtime! Luckily there's a lot of people here to help and there's almost always someone around that can answer questions.

You can do this!

 

[Swampwoman]

Good morning!

It's all pretty much covered here now so im just throwing in moral support and a few "been there" tips.

In my case, I had started raising chlorine to "shock" level on that chart before I had all the debris removed because I was trying to stop the putrid sulphur smell...but technically, you'll use less chlorine if you have more of the debris removed.

In my experience, the following are most critical:

1. Once you start the "slam" (adding chlorine to "shock" evel on the chart) make sure you are always "ahead" of the algae. By that I mean do not let the chlorine level drop below shock level. I would overdose a little to keep that from happening. Eg. By using "mustard algae shock level" for the first few days.

2. Seriously, do not turn off your pump during the process (you need to filter the water and the chlorinated water needs to circulate) but DO backwash as often as needed...eg any time your pressure reading is more than 25% higher than normal. Eg. If your normal pressure is 15 or 16, then backwash when you see it around 20-ish. This helps keep the filter doing its job.

3. When you vacuum and it stirs up the silt/makes water cloudier, do not worry -- you're not going backwards. The filter will eventually clear the particulate matter. Just keeping your "slam/shock/chlorine" level at the prescribed high will ultimately take care of it.

4. Do not worry about using clarifier, floc or any other product unless we're still having this conversation a week hence I don't believe you need it, few do if they just follow the steps and leave the filter to do its job. So just pretend you've never heard of the stuff til you've give the slam process a 100% shot

5. Color change of the water, from brown to green to turqoise to clear, means you're staying ahead of it and killing the algae. If color goes backward, it means the algae is growing faster, or outpacing the chlorine. Don't worry if you see a milky debris...that's dead algae and will be filtered out.

6. During the slam, only measure the chlorine. Ph will not be accurate and nothing else matters right now. But measure chlorine frequently to make sure you are "staying ahead" of the algae. In my case, initially, it would drop to zero after an hour because I had ammonia and no chlorine would "hold." But we "broke its back" and then progressed by just adding chlorine back until it held. That's why it's good to start when you're available to monitor.

You will beat this thing, and then you'll never have to do it again. I've been slam-free since my recovery there should be a pin or something

 

[chanelvaps]

Oh my gosh, cannot believe you stayed up past bedtime and were helping me at 1am!
I am on the job. Going to run all my errands today in between vacuuming. Sure wish I could throw Kreepy Krawley in to finish the brush/vacuum process. Anybody know the skinny on that?
Going to play around with the calculator thing now to make sure I understand it.
So TARGET CHL is not what I want but SHOCK level is? When I have it there it has to stay there for how long?

Yes! You're getting it!

As far as dedicating a day or two to the beginning of the SLAM...it's a really good way to get off to a really good start. If you start when you have a day that you can babysit the pool you will probably be able to make progress quicker than if you just start and only dose twice a day. Believe it or not some people have even set alarms to get up in the middle of the night to test and dose! It just depends on how much you want to put in to it and if you want to try to do it as fast as possible.

Either way it takes time and it will work if you keep at it.


You will only have to test your chlorine during this process.

I looked back to find your reported CYA a few pages ago is 30

So...a review...here's what you do...


Adjust your ph to 7.2 (if it's already there and I think it may be, then you're set for that!)

Look at the chlorine/cya chart http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/128-chlorine-cya-chart-slam-shock

You'll see it says for a CYA of 30 your minimum FC is 2 and target is 4. Those are your maintenance numbers...that's when you have a sparkling pool and you're in happy mode.

The next column is shock FC which for a CYA of 30 is **12**

This is the number you will be (M)aintaining for the S.L.A.M.

Using the pool math calculator you'll put in your current FC number and put 12 in that target box to find out how much bleach you need to add to get to 12. (Make sure you have the percent correct for whatever bleach/chlorine you're using. It will be on the bottle. Most of the major brands of bleach are 8.25% (Walmart, target and clorox brand)

Make sure your pump is running 24/7 for the entire time you SLAM.

You'll pour your bleach slowly in front of the flowing water of the return so it can mix in and then wait an hour and test. You can even test in 30 minutes for that first addition if you want. That's when you'll see how close you are to 12. At first it will probably not hit 12. Algae and other yuckies will eat up the chlorine really quickly at first so don't be discouraged if you test and it's low. That's why you tested so soon. So you can keep adding until you hit your target.

That's the biggest thing. Test, dose back to shock level, wait an hour, test, dose back to shock level.

Pair it with brushing and vacuuming the pool to keep the water circulated and keep that filter busy!

Everything you need is in the SLAM article. I know I didn't mention every step so definitely follow what that article says! That's the rules! lol

Post any questions here and someone much smarter than me will probably answer first. lol

My reply earlier was from my phone on a break at work and I'm rushing a bit now because it's past my bedtime! Luckily there's a lot of people here to help and there's almost always someone around that can answer questions.

You can do this!

- - - Updated - - -

Good morning!

It's all pretty much covered here now so im just throwing in moral support and a few "been there" tips.

In my case, I had started raising chlorine to "shock" level on that chart before I had all the debris removed because I was trying to stop the putrid sulphur smell...but technically, you'll use less chlorine if you have more of the debris removed.

In my experience, the following are most critical:

1. Once you start the "slam" (adding chlorine to "shock" evel on the chart) make sure you are always "ahead" of the algae. By that I mean do not let the chlorine level drop below shock level. I would overdose a little to keep that from happening. Eg. By using "mustard algae shock level" for the first few days.

2. Seriously, do not turn off your pump during the process (you need to filter the water and the chlorinated water needs to circulate) but DO backwash as often as needed...eg any time your pressure reading is more than 25% higher than normal. Eg. If your normal pressure is 15 or 16, then backwash when you see it around 20-ish. This helps keep the filter doing its job.

3. When you vacuum and it stirs up the silt/makes water cloudier, do not worry -- you're not going backwards. The filter will eventually clear the particulate matter. Just keeping your "slam/shock/chlorine" level at the prescribed high will ultimately take care of it.

4. Do not worry about using clarifier, floc or any other product unless we're still having this conversation a week hence I don't believe you need it, few do if they just follow the steps and leave the filter to do its job. So just pretend you've never heard of the stuff til you've give the slam process a 100% shot

5. Color change of the water, from brown to green to turqoise to clear, means you're staying ahead of it and killing the algae. If color goes backward, it means the algae is growing faster, or outpacing the chlorine. Don't worry if you see a milky debris...that's dead algae and will be filtered out.

6. During the slam, only measure the chlorine. Ph will not be accurate and nothing else matters right now. But measure chlorine frequently to make sure you are "staying ahead" of the algae. In my case, initially, it would drop to zero after an hour because I had ammonia and no chlorine would "hold." But we "broke its back" and then progressed by just adding chlorine back until it held. That's why it's good to start when you're available to monitor.

You will beat this thing, and then you'll never have to do it again. I've been slam-free since my recovery there should be a pin or something

Read and re-read and bookmarked to read later-THANK YOU for the step by step. Helped sooo much.

 

[jmbradwell]

It has to stay there until everything in the pool is DEAD and you can pass the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test.

 

[kcindc]

Sure wish I could throw Kreepy Krawley in to finish the brush/vacuum process. Anybody know the skinny on that

Generally, it is best to stick with manually vacuuming when your chlorine levels are at, or above, shock level for your CYA. Chlorine levels at and above shock level can be prematurely wear down certain parts of your KK. With that said, I have used my Polaris at shock level, but I am very careful to make sure that my chlorine levels are not above shock level and I don't leave it in the pool and I don't run it for very often.

So TARGET CHL is not what I want but SHOCK level is?

Your CYA level is 30 and you want to keep you chlorine level at 12.

When I have it there it has to stay there for how long?

You should test hourly (at first) and redose it back up to 12. http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/128-chlorine-cya-chart-slam-shock

After a while, you will see that your FC will hold longer and longer and then you can go longer between testing and dosing. You keep testing and dosing until you pass the three criteria:

1. Pool water is crystal clear
2. CC is 0.5 or less
3. You pass the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test (OCLT) Don't worry about this test since b/c your water needs to be clear before performing it.

Here is a pool school article on SLAMing your pool:
http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/125-slam-shock-level-and-maintain-shockingl

Edit: Make sure that you brush the pool at least daily.

 

[chanelvaps]

Ok gotcha. So the CYA level will stay the same at 30? I was not clear on that. I am pretty sure I will be able to give this a go first thing in the morning. I have vacuumed twice and plan to do it again around 7pm (sun gone down). I will check PH then and plan to begin slam in the morning.
No Kreepy then.

Generally, it is best to stick with manually vacuuming when your chlorine levels are at, or above, shock level for your CYA. Chlorine levels at and above shock level can be prematurely wear down certain parts of your KK. With that said, I have used my Polaris at shock level, but I am very careful to make sure that my chlorine levels are not above shock level and I don't leave it in the pool and I don't run it for very often.



Your CYA level is 30 and you want to keep you chlorine level at 12.



You should test hourly (at first) and redose it back up to 12. http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/128-chlorine-cya-chart-slam-shock

After a while, you will see that your FC will hold longer and longer and then you can go longer between testing and dosing. You keep testing and dosing until you pass the three criteria:

1. Pool water is crystal clear
2. CC is 0.5 or less
3. You pass the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test (OCLT) Don't worry about this test since b/c your water needs to be clear before performing it.

Here is a pool school article on SLAMing your pool:
http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/125-slam-shock-level-and-maintain-shockingl

Edit: Make sure that you brush the pool at least daily.

- - - Updated - - -

So during this test done hourly am I using the little tester that test only Chlorine and PH or am I doing the mind boggling long test that requires a chemist degree to check the CHL

- - - Updated - - -

*the long and involved test where you use 10mls in the cylinder and then turn it red and then clear it up?

 

[jblizzle]

The FAS-DPD test with the powder as it is the only test that can read the high FC levels required for the SLAM process.

I thought chemists learned more than swirling a cylinder and counting drops

 

[kcindc]

Your CYA doesn't go away on its own, it will stay at 30 unless you replace a lot of water.

Yes, you should be using the powder test for the chlorine (the 10mls/one that is pink/red and goes to clear).

Jbilizzle was faster in replying

 

[Vyrolan]

Chlorine levels at and above shock level can be prematurely wear down certain parts of your KK. With that said, I have used my Polaris at shock level, but I am very careful to make sure that my chlorine levels are not above shock level and I don't leave it in the pool and I don't run it for very often.

Is there anymore detail on this? I've had my Polaris 280 in with chlorine levels around SLAM level...but also I'm lazy and don't care if it gets broken since it's old and I'd like an excuse to get a better one anyway.

 

[chanelvaps]

ya just feels like a chemistry experiment to me. (hopes your not a chemist)

The FAS-DPD test with the powder as it is the only test that can read the high FC levels required for the SLAM process.

I thought chemists learned more than swirling a cylinder and counting drops

- - - Updated - - -

Maybe I better check it again. I have replaced a lot of water between the leak with the multi port gasket and then all this vacuuming

Your CYA doesn't go away on its own, it will stay at 30 unless you replace a lot of water.

Yes, you should be using the powder test for the chlorine (the 10mls/one that is pink/red and goes to clear).

Jbilizzle was faster in replying

- - - Updated - - -

My Kreepy is over 15 yrs old and I keep saying "going to try to get one more year out of this guy" I have replaced a thing or two on it, very inexpensively. I would buy another Kreepy is I had to replace right now

Is there anymore detail on this? I've had my Polaris 280 in with chlorine levels around SLAM level...but also I'm lazy and don't care if it gets broken since it's old and I'd like an excuse to get a better one anyway.

 

[chanelvaps]

Vacuumed for the third time today and just did test.
Not what I expected
FC-.5
CC-.5
TC-1
CH-50
TA-60-70 (did it twice and got 60 one time and 70 the next)
CYA 25
PH 8.2

So I basically have no CHL and over the top PH
UUGGGHHHH

 

[chanelvaps]

So if I did the calculator right, I need to add:
139 oz of bleach
25 oz Muriatic Acid (where do I get this?)
324 oz baking soda
46 oz stabilizer (I have to go to the pool store for this right?) scared...

- - - Updated - - -

So if I did the calculator right, I need to add:
139 oz of bleach
25 oz Muriatic Acid (where do I get this?)
324 oz baking soda
46 oz stabilizer (I have to go to the pool store for this right?) scared...

Before the SLAM?

 

[kcindc]

Well, first add acid to reduce your PH down to the recommended range. Use pool math to determine the amount of acid: http://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html

Retest after 30 minutes to see if you PH is back in range.

Once your PH is in range, bring your FC back up to 12.

For the CYA test, you should use the CYA value that is closest to the line, for example, if the line is closer to 20, use 20, if the line is closer to 30 use 30 as your CYA. You should do the CYA test in the sunlight, put your back to the sun, hold the container at waist height. Any variation in testing procedures can produce inaccurate results. Did you test in the dark or dusk?

Don't worry about testing for CH and TA until you get your water clear.