I messed up. I used flocc. Now what?

firstpool2020

Member
Jul 5, 2020
12
Kentucky
Sand filter, in ground pool 36 x 18 feet. 4ft ish at shallow end 6.5 ft is at the deep. Estimated at 25k gallons.

Pool has been perfect since we opened it (first year having it), but we got a solar cover. It has been hot and rainy here and we didn't go out to look at it all week (mistake one), we usually put chlorine tablets in on a Sunday but my husband forgot last week. Thursday we went down to a green pool - as if we had opened it from winter. So we shocked it, several times in fact. It got to the point that it was cloudy. We tested and tested, shocked again. All levels were fine but still we had a cloudy pool.

So I called the pool store....mistake 2. Took the advice of the pool store guy and flocced it (non alum flocc). Pump off, let it settle for 24 hrs to sink, but it didn't sink. It just stayed on top. Spent the next 24-36hrs hosing the top down every few hours for it to sink and vacuumed to waste what sank. Think I spent $650 in water today vacuuming to waste and refilling and now I am freaking out (if I had the hose on for 4 hrs at 11.3c a gallon that is what I am thinking but I am calling the water company tomorrow to check as I feel sick. Rates based upon my last water bill and includes sewage which they calc at the same as I use). Pool is still cloudy (although no where near as bad, I can now see the bottom just at the deep end) and still has floating flocc just below the surface with some groups still landing on the ground.

So do I keep vacuuming and adding water or just turn my pump on and let it wreck my pump/filter?
 
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Texas Splash

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Welcome to TFP! :wave: Sounds like you've learned your lesson. :hammer: Maybe others will have another idea, but I currently see two options. One - continue with what you are doing, being very slow and methodical about letting the floc settle and vacuum quietly what you can to WASTE - then repeat. Ugh. Or two, you just filter it and replace the sand once you believe you've captured all of it. Either option would seem to stink right about now since you've gone through some water ($$$) and sand replacement is a bit or work and some $$ as well. But let's give this thread some time for more replies. In the meantime, continue with your vacuum to WASTE attempts and maybe you'll get past the majority of it soon.
 

mguzzy

Gold Supporter
Jul 8, 2015
2,426
OV, CA
It's unfortunate that this is the way you had to find the forum... Can you post what product you used?

BtW... Welcome to the club!
 

Khlorine

New member
Jul 1, 2020
4
Raleigh, NC
I recently made the exact same mistake, had to do the hosing down (using a nozzle with a "mist" type setting worked awesome) and set to waste while vacuuming - it's a lesson learned, know I won't ever do that again. It did take a few days for it to all settle for me. I didn't vacuum at all until most of it was dropped.

Think I spent $650 in water today vacuuming to waste and refilling ... if I had the hose on for 4 hrs at 11.3c a gallon that is what I am thinking but I am calling the water company tomorrow
Maybe I have no idea how much water costs in other places, but my cost is no where close to 11.3 c/gallon. Mine is ~$0.006 per gallon (little more than half a penny per gallon). Water is (generally) cheap. My guess is it's actually 1.13 c/gallon - but definitely just confirm with the water co.
 
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mgtfp

Bronze Supporter
Mar 5, 2020
574
Melbourne, Australia
Pool Size
66000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Astral VX 7T
Flocculant are a last resort for some very specific problems, an algae bloom is not one of them. But it's in now, and you somehow have to get through this now...

I have read that floc doesn't work with living algae, wondering if that is the problem here. If your pool was green then you certainly have living algae in it. That will need liquid chlorine to get killed. Maybe the floc can then clump together the dead algae and settle to the bottom of the pool.

Following the SLAM process as described here is our standard procedure to deal with an algae infestation:


Problem is that SLAMming requires filtering, and I am not sure if filtering is a good idea with the floc in the water.

I am wondering if you should start the SLAM with just circulating the water, without running the water through the filter. Once enough algae is dead, the floc might settle down, you can vacuum that to waste and continue the SLAM with the filter.

What do others think of that?

Step 1 should definitely be to order a test kit that will allow you to test the water parameters and post them here so we can help you further:


I also suggest that you start reading through the Pool School articles:


A good starting point might be to start adding liquid chlorine while ordering and waiting for a test kit, and while hopefully others chime in with ideas what best to do. I'd suggest to keep adding 5ppm worth of chlorine each day for now, give the pool a good stir with the brush, and hope that the floc starts settling over night. What 5ppm worth of chlorine is for your pool size, you can calculate with PoolMath:

 

Jnet

Gold Supporter
Bronze Supporter
Mar 15, 2017
187
Chicago/Northwest, IL
Wow - that water cost is painful. Take a close look at your bill. Water is often billed per 1,000 gallons. Make sure you've got the math right. Sorry for what you're going through. There are lots of smart people and some great resources around here to help get you straightened out.
 

markayash

Gold Supporter
Mar 21, 2016
2,697
Atlanta Ga
In Georgia if you have a problem with your pool and email them they will take the sewer off. Worth a try, worse case is they say NO!
They usually ask you to estimate how many gallons..One time they gave me $150 credit ( I had a receipt for re plaster ) when the bill was $300 but last time I think they only gave me $50 but better then nothing
Years ago I used Floc after I killed the algae but it always fell to the bottom and I would brush toward the main drain and once settled suck it out to waste
I have a bottle still sitting on my shelf I reuse to use :)
 

0REDSOX7

Well-known member
May 7, 2018
56
Greensboro, NC
Funny argument to this - when I drain my pool in September when it goes down (one of those Intex pools), I stop chlorinating the last week or so to get the FC levels down to 0 - then I pump it out to my yard using a sprinkler to water my newly plugged grass for a time or two...has worked wonders last two years.
 

firstpool2020

Member
Jul 5, 2020
12
Kentucky
Merged threads - TFP Mod

Hello again!

So if you read my earlier post you will know that I flocced and regretted it.

So the flocc is all vacced out (finally) but as the pump has not been running while we took 3 or so days to let it repeatedly settle and re-vacuum a crazy number of times to waste, then had to re-fill A LOT of water.

So now the pool is cloudy and has swimming things in it. Lovely. About 12 hrs ago after topping the water up, we put new chlorine tablets in our filter, shocked the pool, left the pump on. Right now it doesn't look like too much has changed with the cloudyiness. I read the SLAM method but I got confused and may need some guidance. Do I test the water after 24 hrs to see if it at SLAM level and add more shock?

25,000 in ground pool ish. Sand filter. Using bags of shock not liquid right now.
 
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markayash

Gold Supporter
Mar 21, 2016
2,697
Atlanta Ga
Mine cost me around $350 to refill form what I can tell..
At our old house the backwash was plumbed into the sewer system ( was that way when we bought it ) and the water co said I needed to remove it..I told them I am probably giving you back cleaner water then most :) and they said OK you can leave it :)
 

Texas Splash

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Since you are doing the SLAM Process to clean-up (chemically) everything that happens, you should ensure:
1. The pH is at about 7.2 (before increasing the FC to SLAM level)
2. Make sure you have a CYA of 30 ppm since new water has no CYA in it
3. Increase the FC to 12 and maintain in until you pass all 3 SLAM criteria.
4. Brush, scrub, and continue to clean all areas during the SLAM.

Follow all the notes on the SLAM Process page and you should do fine. Hope that helps.
 

firstpool2020

Member
Jul 5, 2020
12
Kentucky
Since you are doing the SLAM Process to clean-up (chemically) everything that happens, you should ensure:
1. The pH is at about 7.2 (before increasing the FC to SLAM level)
2. Make sure you have a CYA of 30 ppm since new water has no CYA in it
3. Increase the FC to 12 and maintain in until you pass all 3 SLAM criteria.
4. Brush, scrub, and continue to clean all areas during the SLAM.

Follow all the notes on the SLAM Process page and you should do fine. Hope that helps.
Thanks! If I test tonight that is before taking it to SLAM level right? I am just confused as I have already shocked it.
 

Texas Splash

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Don't let the term "shocked" get you side-tracked. We at TFP "SLAM" and that means taking the FC up to the proper SLAM level (in your case should be 12) and keeping it there as steady as you can throughout the day and before bed, then starting again the morning until you pass those 3 criteria. So you would want to do all of those things (above) starting now if possible, then stick with it until the SLAM is complete. Make sense?
 

markayash

Gold Supporter
Mar 21, 2016
2,697
Atlanta Ga
Funny argument to this - when I drain my pool in September when it goes down (one of those Intex pools), I stop chlorinating the last week or so to get the FC levels down to 0 - then I pump it out to my yard using a sprinkler to water my newly plugged grass for a time or two...has worked wonders last two years.
Smart idea, you will be surprised if you check the FC or your county water :)
 

firstpool2020

Member
Jul 5, 2020
12
Kentucky
Don't let the term "shocked" get you side-tracked. We at TFP "SLAM" and that means taking the FC up to the proper SLAM level (in your case should be 12) and keeping it there as steady as you can throughout the day and before bed, then starting again the morning until you pass those 3 criteria. So you would want to do all of those things (above) starting now if possible, then stick with it until the SLAM is complete. Make sense?
Sort of, sorry! How did you get FC level of 12? Are you looking at the Non SWCG chart on the CYA chart in the SLAM FC column? making the CYA stabilizer of 30? If so, how did you decide on 12 and not 16?