I just bought the Hayward SP2302VSP

hleapha

Active member
Jun 16, 2009
38
South Carolina
For replacing my burnt up 1.5 Super pump, I decided to go Variable Speed for my basic 20K in-ground. It was between the Hayward SP2302VSP and the Pentair 432001
both equally priced at $640. I read reviews, articles, and forums. It's hard to get a real comparison of the two so I found Energy Star's pump spreadsheet (download here). Looking at the two, I sorted the A-curve by Flow Rate (in GPM) to compare similar productions. The Hayward showed a much higher GPM/Watt which equates directly to efficiency. I was as little surprised at the difference, honestly. The color gradients were applied to around 150 other pumps, so the Hayward was in the upper echelon and the Pentair showed as mid to low. I attached a pic of the comparison.

Pump Comparison Pic.JPG

What do y'all think?
 

Brett_N

Well-known member
Jul 21, 2015
123
Tempe, Az
I have the same motor end with a different wet end (Mine is square, that's it, I think yours is just newer.)

Couple things.

1 - I love mine.

2 - Make a "doghouse" or some other cover for it (a big plastic tote works just fine) - The electric end IS NOT watertight. I burned one up about a week after getting it, the seal is a crummy design.

3 - if you haven't installed it yet, when you are done hooking up the electrics, seal everything with a semi-permanent clear silicon caulk. slip the gasket in, and run a bead all the way around the cover. I even gooped caulk into the 90* fitting.

4 - again thinking I have a model year or two older, I had to futz with the programming to get it to do what I wanted. Not sure if they consider the "timer" on that one a clock-calendar (meaning, it knows what time it actually is) or not. I use a mechanical clock timer, and then programmed specific time-of-run options. If yours is like mine, here's the trick.

Setup your mechanical timer for the TIME OF DAY and LENGTH of TOTAL TIME ON (standard stuff, just like the old pump)

on the new pump - it automatically kicks to V3 by default, which is highest speed. For everyday skimming and running, I found I only need to run mine on ~2500 RPM for 3 hours, then I let it run for 1100 RPM for another 7 hours. Sometimes during the summer I run it for 21 hours, since electricity is cheap here, and it gets hot, so that helps thwart off the algae by keeping the water moving.

Anyway - it will default to V3, and run V3 for either the full running time (I think the default per speed is 12 hours) then it kicks down to V1. It skips right over V2.

Again, I programed V3 to 2500 RPM for 3 hours, and then V1 I kicked down to 1100 RPM but bumped it up to 18 hours. I change the total run time with the mechanical timer.

I then reprogrammed V2 to be max speed (IIRC, 3500 RPM?) but I only ever use this if I am manually vacuuming the bottom so I turn it on and off manually.

I can't say with certain that it "lowered" my electric bill since I never had a baseline (I installed it when I moved in) but I would wager it costs me about a $1 a day, even running 21 hours.


Oh oh oh - another little trick if you haven't done the install yet. Get a piece of neoprene rubber or similar (garage floor mat works just fine) and put it in between the pump and the concrete pad. Basically create an isolation mount, and only time you'll know the pump is running is when it primes up (sounds like a jet turbine for about 2 minutes, that's how you know it's on V3!)
 

pooldv

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
Platinum Supporter
LifeTime Supporter
Aug 10, 2012
25,408
FL panhandle
Based on that chart the Hayward looks better. And you are already "Hayward Pool". Really either pump will work great and you will love it.
 

isomorphic85

Member
Feb 19, 2016
20
New Hampton
I have the pump installed it end of last year when i built my pool, absolutely love the pump , especially with my omnilogic automation controls.

My only negative about the pump is that at low RPM's after a while it will develop air in the basket...i've gone nuts trying to figure out how to stop it from happening... ive tried countless different methods... none have worked.

I also have another one of these same pumps that I have on seperate suction and return lines that run my laminar jets... this pump has the exact same issue at lower rpms with the air in the basket...

not sure what else to do about it , but other then that I love these pumps.
 

pooldv

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
Platinum Supporter
LifeTime Supporter
Aug 10, 2012
25,408
FL panhandle
My pump has air in the basket at 1100 rpm (my normal low speed) and has for almost 4 years. At 1950 it has no air in the basket. It doesn't cause any problems that I have noticed or am aware of.
 

hleapha

Active member
Jun 16, 2009
38
South Carolina
I have the same motor end with a different wet end (Mine is square, that's it, I think yours is just newer.)

2 - Make a "doghouse" or some other cover for it (a big plastic tote works just fine) - The electric end IS NOT watertight. I burned one up about a week after getting it, the seal is a crummy design.
Great idea - I actually have some spare timbers and corrugated roofing sheets - I will definitely do this.

3 - if you haven't installed it yet, when you are done hooking up the electrics, seal everything with a semi-permanent clear silicon caulk. slip the gasket in, and run a bead all the way around the cover. I even gooped caulk into the 90* fitting.
Okay - so this sounds like a precaution for moisture getting in the electronics - I will implement this as well!

Setup your mechanical timer for the TIME OF DAY and LENGTH of TOTAL TIME ON (standard stuff, just like the old pump)

on the new pump - it automatically kicks to V3 by default, which is highest speed. For everyday skimming and running, I found I only need to run mine on ~2500 RPM for 3 hours, then I let it run for 1100 RPM for another 7 hours. Sometimes during the summer I run it for 21 hours, since electricity is cheap here, and it gets hot, so that helps thwart off the algae by keeping the water moving.

Anyway - it will default to V3, and run V3 for either the full running time (I think the default per speed is 12 hours) then it kicks down to V1. It skips right over V2.

Again, I programed V3 to 2500 RPM for 3 hours, and then V1 I kicked down to 1100 RPM but bumped it up to 18 hours. I change the total run time with the mechanical timer.

I then reprogrammed V2 to be max speed (IIRC, 3500 RPM?) but I only ever use this if I am manually vacuuming the bottom so I turn it on and off manually.
I was wondering how I should combine the programming with the mechanical on/off timer, this is good incite.

Oh oh oh - another little trick if you haven't done the install yet. Get a piece of neoprene rubber or similar (garage floor mat works just fine) and put it in between the pump and the concrete pad. Basically create an isolation mount, and only time you'll know the pump is running is when it primes up (sounds like a jet turbine for about 2 minutes, that's how you know it's on V3!)
I was planning on using some foam board, but I like this idea better. I like the idea of a shock absorber for the motor. Thanks imparting some wisdom on me!
 

Brett_N

Well-known member
Jul 21, 2015
123
Tempe, Az
Oh, Mine has "air bubbles" in the top at 1100RPM also - it isn't an issue of air leaks, I think it's just low speed cavitation in the wet end. It's still moving water though.