How to replace the skimmer?

DThompson55

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Jun 20, 2016
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Manchester, CT
I need to replace the old skimmer that developed a hairline crack down the side last winter. The Doheny Skimmer System, the Hayward Dyna Flow, and the Swimline 8940 all look similar. Do skimmers all come in a standard size and they'll just fit a 5 3/4 inch wide hole? Or is it going to get more complicated?
 
No, there is not a standard skimmer size. You need to check that the skimmer you get will fit the opening you have.
 
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Thank you. I have my dimensions written down and finding it is devilishly difficult to find a match. I called Inyo but they don't have a way to look up by size. So 'll just continue to google. Maybe I just need to get close.

top side
5 3/4 x 5 1/2
Screw Holes 2.25 across the top and 2.0 down the side
 
It turns out the Hayward SP1091LX is just a little bigger across, and the screw holes don't match up , but I feel as long as the skimmer isn't smaller than the current one I can make it work. Any argument there?

Hayward is 5 15/16 wide, whereas mine is 5 3/4. And the Hayward screw holes are all 1/8 inch further apart than mine.
 
How old is the skimmer? Is it in an area that will be an eye sore? I ask because a hairline Crack may be repairable with something like JB waterweld or another waterproof epoxy. I have used jb waterweld for a project and it worked great. If you can see it from the inside and outside of the skimmer I would use it on both sides with it a little thinner on the inside. Another product I had great success with is Gorrilla Glue waterproof tape. I used it on my old pool ladder and it held up great underwater
 
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You don't want to install a skimmer that is the wrong size. You *could* cut in a larger one all around if you were changing your liner, but I would not try doing so with an existing liner.

If you have to drill new holes, you are going to have a severely weakened swiss cheese of metal around the skimmer face - an area that is already under a lot of stress. Not to mention the holes also go through the liner.

This is one if the times that I recommend a brick and mortar pool store. Get a piece of thin carboard (a manila folder, the back of a legal pad, etc) and make a template of the screw holes for your skimmer. Then go to a pool store and tell them you need a skimmer that matches.
 
I wish I'd read @phonedave's good advice before I ordered parts online. Even so, I lucked out. I also mismeasured. I was prepared to cut and drill. But the new Hayward part seemed like it fit the existing hole and the screw holes. Boy was I surprised! Like with most pool related things I have almost no idea what I'm doing beyond not standing in the water with an electric drill.
 
Many years ago when the hoses the PB installed pump to pool went bad, I hard piped with PVC. A couple years later I broke the nut on a union. I used PVC cleaner and glue to repair the nut, and it’s been fine ever since. If the hairline crack is tight you may be able to slather it on both sides and call it a day. There’s no pressure there.
Note to self, never overtighten plastic nuts.
 
I wish I'd read @phonedave's good advice before I ordered parts online. Even so, I lucked out. I also mismeasured. I was prepared to cut and drill. But the new Hayward part seemed like it fit the existing hole and the screw holes. Boy was I surprised! Like with most pool related things I have almost no idea what I'm doing beyond not standing in the water with an electric drill.

Battery operated drills work just fine in the water.
 

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I'm not positive, but I think the white skimmers are PVC.
Most likely type I PVC.

If I wanted to repair one I'd try to solvent weld it using PVC primer and PVC cement, but you're going to want to clean it the best you can without making the crack wider and then once you get the primer and glue into the crack clamp it somewhat tight.

If the crack is small and PVC cement will not get into it, primer alone can be used several times before clamping.

The reason I bring this up is solvent welding literally melts the plastic together where something like JB weld is just going to stick to it on the surface.

I would highly recommend buying some clear primer and avoiding the purple stuff as you don't want that mess all over your skimmer.
You may also be able to use pure acetone if you're careful about it. KEEP IT AWAY FROM THE POOL LINER.
 
They will run just fine in the water and will also not shock you.

The real problem is mechanical. You will lock up the motor, and the electronics don't do too well either.

I used a 20V new at the time Dewalt to put my skimmer on just above the water line and all I kept thinking was I hope I don't drop this.

Mainly because I didn't want to poke a hole in the liner or ruin the new drill.
 
Well, I got the new skimmer in. The problems didn't start until i started filling the pool up to the skimmer level. So I guess something didn't fit right. Water's dripping from around the new gasket. So I guess I have to drain it some and start over.

I'm guessing I have to make the hole a little bigger to fit the gasket better. I have no idea how to do that. Seems fraught with peril. Tin snips? some kind of saw?
 
that worked. bone dry so far.
Your skimmer should have come with a butterfly (sometimes called a "Wall Saver") gasket. It is U shaped in cross section. Half if it goes outside the wall and half inside, over the liner.

If this is installed correctly, and the skimmer faceplate is torqued down evenly, then you should not need silicone.

If your skimmer was leaking on the outside and you siliconed it, you have stopped the water from running down the outside of the pool. But have you stopped it from running down the wall behind the liner?

If you are reluctant to pull the whole thing apart (and I would be) you should also silicone the area between the simmer body and faceplate.
 
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Your skimmer should have come with a butterfly (sometimes called a "Wall Saver") gasket. It is U shaped in cross section. Half if it goes outside the wall and half inside, over the liner.

If this is installed correctly, and the skimmer faceplate is torqued down evenly, then you should not need silicone.

If your skimmer was leaking on the outside and you siliconed it, you have stopped the water from running down the outside of the pool. But have you stopped it from running down the wall behind the liner?

If you are reluctant to pull the whole thing apart (and I would be) you should also silicone the area between the simmer body and faceplate.

From what I recall my Hayward wide mouth said to put the butterfly gasket over the wall and the back of the vinyl liner is to seal against the inside face of that gasket.
Trying to put it over the liner as well would require you to cut the liner before installing the skimmer which is risky, unless it's already cut. Not sure I would want the gasket over the liner regardless.

I followed the instructions and it hasn't leaked yet. No RTV either.
 
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