I believe it is time for a new salt cell. Is it as easy as just removing the old cell and screwing the new one in? Or is there anything I need to do after I put the new one in place? Thank you.
How to replace salt cell
- Thread starter LisaDLu
- Start date
- Jun 7, 2017
- 9,053
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
Usually if it is the same exact cell. What cell is it? Why are you replacing it? Salt cell's are a "use them until they don't work at all anymore" and not something you should replace if you are not having an issue.
Lisa,
While your cell may be bad, it may not... Tell us what kind of cell and what problems you are having.. It may just be something making the cell "look" like it is bad..
How old is it?
Thanks,
Jim R.
While your cell may be bad, it may not... Tell us what kind of cell and what problems you are having.. It may just be something making the cell "look" like it is bad..
How old is it?
Thanks,
Jim R.
Last November my Aqua Rite board was showing low salt so I added salt. It went up but then a week later came down. It kept going down. Then bouncing back up. The salt cell is almost 6 years old so someone told me it was probably a bad cell. I got it working correctly and now about 6 months later the Aqua Rite board is showing salt level dropping again, today registering at 2200 which I know is not correct. I bought some salt strips and for a few weeks in a row they are showing salt steady at 3700. We have removed the cell several times and the board is still showing "low salt" and not generating. My FC is also now dropping leading me to believe the salt cell is dying or dead:
April 11 - 6.5
May 20 - 4.5
May 26 - 2.5
So I am thinking it is the salt cell. Any other ideas? Thank you!
April 11 - 6.5
May 20 - 4.5
May 26 - 2.5
So I am thinking it is the salt cell. Any other ideas? Thank you!
Also, forgot to mention we took the salt cell in to Leslies last November and they showed it was still good.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,363
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Let's see if @JamesW can help you out. I am pretty sure he will need the data from a Diagnostics run.
What are the diagnostic readings?
Check the readings, then move the switch to off for a minute then back on and recheck the readings.
Check the readings, then move the switch to off for a minute then back on and recheck the readings.
In the meantime while you figure this stuff out, use liquid chlorine to keep your FC where you need it so you don't invite algae to the party.
Maddie
Maddie
Here are the diagnostics. Last November when I first had issues the board switched to metric and I have not been able to switch it back:
2.30
24
31.3
0.00
38P
-0.00
AL -0
r 1.59
L - 15
When I switch it off some of the numbers are different but then in a few minutes all switch back to what is showing above. Thanks for any insight or ideas.
2.30
24
31.3
0.00
38P
-0.00
AL -0
r 1.59
L - 15
When I switch it off some of the numbers are different but then in a few minutes all switch back to what is showing above. Thanks for any insight or ideas.
Go to temperature and move the switch from auto to superchlorinate and back to auto to switch back to standard measurements.
Then, move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
Is the cell a T-15?
What are the first four characters of the cell serial number?
You need to be really sure about the actual salinity. I recommend the K-1766 salt test kit.
Then, move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
Is the cell a T-15?
What are the first four characters of the cell serial number?
You need to be really sure about the actual salinity. I recommend the K-1766 salt test kit.
It is a T - CELL - 15. The only label on there looks like a UPC barcode. It is 3E1377-200580.
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