how to install a stenner pump?

march2012

LifeTime Supporter
Jan 21, 2012
472
TX
two parts to the question

1) electrical - the pump comes with a regular plug, do I cut the end off and wire it directly into the hayward ecommand 4 breaker box?
If so, do i put it in parallel with whatever my pump is attached to so it goes on when the pool pump goes on?

2) plumbing - any tips for tapping into the actual pool plumbing? do i use a drill bit to drill the right sized hole?
how do i seal the whole thing?
 

Bama Rambler

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  1. If you want to hook it up direct you can just cut the plug off and wire it directly to the Ecommand.
    • You can either hook it to the pump relay so it runs whenever the pump is on, or [/*:m:17ifrxwy]
    • You can use an Aux relay to run it some preset time during the pump is run schedule[/*:m:17ifrxwy]
    [/*:m:17ifrxwy]
  2. You just drill the pipe with the correct size drill (7/16") and tap the wall of the pipe (1/4" NPT) then use t-tape or paste as a sealant.[/*:m:17ifrxwy][/list:eek::17ifrxwy]
 

march2012

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Jan 21, 2012
472
TX
Thanks! which is the best pipe to use? The pool return only or one that feeds the pool and spa returns?

I was thinking the pipe feeding both the pool and spa would be better because I was planning to wire the stenner to the pump relay so anytime the pump was running, the stenner would run. However if I tapped into the pool returns only, when I am in spa mode the pool returns are shut off so I would get chlorine accumulation. But if I do both, the chlorinated water would be running through the spa only, is that ok?



As you mentioned I could wire into the last aux relay and tie that relay via programming to the pump. Im not sure what the benefit of using the aux vs using the pump relay are ( except maybe two pumps in parallel are not good for one relay circuit?)
 

Bama Rambler

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I would tap into the common line feeding both pool and spa. You'll overchlorinate the spa a little when it running single body mode but not enough to be concerned unless you run it that way an extremely long time. Besides, a little extra chlorination is needed due to the person per volume ratio of the spa.

Hooking both main and injection pump to the same relay isn't a concern at all. I suggested the Aux relay because then you could choose to run the injection pump a different amount of time than the main pump (i.e. not have it run when in spa mode or have it run less time then).
 

march2012

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Jan 21, 2012
472
TX
Bama Rambler said:
I would tap into the common line feeding both pool and spa. You'll overchlorinate the spa a little when it running single body mode but not enough to be concerned unless you run it that way an extremely long time. Besides, a little extra chlorination is needed due to the person per volume ratio of the spa.

Hooking both main and injection pump to the same relay isn't a concern at all. I suggested the Aux relay because then you could choose to run the injection pump a different amount of time than the main pump (i.e. not have it run when in spa mode or have it run less time then).

I will most likely run the stenner on aux and use programming to have it work with the filter pump. Their recommendation is to not cut the plug off, instead wire an GFI outlet to the relay and plug the pump into the outlet. This could be useful as apparently in the winter you dont want to leave it outside in a freeze.

I have a GFI outlet attached to the ecommand box, but it isnt switched.

any thoughts about plugging into a GFI outlet vs direct wire to the relay?
 

JasonLion

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A GFI outlet makes things safer and more convent, but it is a bit more work/cost/space to install. It sounds like a good idea to me, but you can get away without it.
 

march2012

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Jan 21, 2012
472
TX
JasonLion said:
A GFI outlet makes things safer and more convent, but it is a bit more work/cost/space to install. It sounds like a good idea to me, but you can get away without it.

Thanks! Im not going to do anything until this weekend as I want to be able to complete the project and have time to spare in case something goes wrong. The thing I worry about the GFI is that it is an exposed outdoor socket with the cap lifted so rain will eventually get in. I want a quick disconnect so I can easily remove the pump so I was thinking about direct wiring but then putting a waterproof disconnect in the wire.
 

march2012

LifeTime Supporter
Jan 21, 2012
472
TX
ok, so I have the stenner plumbed and I tested it. I was able to raise FC by 1.5 ppm over an hour at 10 gallons/day which is just right. Im very excited about this :)

There is always a catch though, it turns out there are only 4 relays. Pump low speed is on 1, lights on 2, polaris booster on 3 and pump high speed on 4. So I have no relays left. I was thinking about wiring it into the filter relay and just have it run at the same time as the low speed setting of the pump. The only problem is the wiring is complex because it is 240V.


On page 7 they show some wiring diagrams
http://www.hayward-pool.com/pdf/manuals/Manual290.pdf


I was thinking about just buying an inexpensive outdoor timer, plugging that into outdoor power and then plugging the stenner into the timer. are there any downsides to this?
 

texasdad

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Jun 10, 2011
187
DFW Metro
march2012 said:
I was thinking about just buying an inexpensive outdoor timer, plugging that into outdoor power and then plugging the stenner into the timer. are there any downsides to this?
That is what I've done. You can get a240v timer on amazon for less then $50. With separate timers you need to double check your settings, you don't want to accidentally run your chlorine pump without the main pump running.
 

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march2012

LifeTime Supporter
Jan 21, 2012
472
TX
texasdad said:
march2012 said:
I was thinking about just buying an inexpensive outdoor timer, plugging that into outdoor power and then plugging the stenner into the timer. are there any downsides to this?
That is what I've done. You can get a240v timer on amazon for less then $50. With separate timers you need to double check your settings, you don't want to accidentally run your chlorine pump without the main pump running.

Im running the filter pump for 8 hours during the day, Ill setup the stenner to just run at max output for around 1 or 2 hours (1.5-3ppm) in the middle of it.
 

march2012

LifeTime Supporter
Jan 21, 2012
472
TX
Just wanted to close the loop on this. I have the stenner set to 10 and my cheapo $20 timer from home depot running for 1 hour. For the last 3 days my FC has held steady at 5 without any bleach from me. I love the stenner pump :)

I showed it to my neighbor and now they are interested. They got rid of their salt cell because they had to add acid almost daily. (probably because their TA was too high) and are already on bleach.

Thanks for all the advice!
 

toofast

Well-known member
May 9, 2013
993
North East Ohio
So I know this is a slightly old post, but figured it was ok since the question is install related.

My Pool Builder is dragging his feet on the install of this pump, simply because he does not understand WHY I want to do this, vs. the inline puck thing....so the stenner install is going to have to happen AFTER all the pumps are hooked up, etc. and have water in them.

So my concern is can I still get a good seal when I drill the hole in the return line with "Water" squirting out everywhere ? I tried searching for related posts, but could not find any.

Thanks in advance!
 

Bama Rambler

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I assume you're going to drill and tap the hole for the injection fitting. If so, then yes you'll be able to get a good seal. Since you have an inground pool with a sand filter, set the multiport to closed and there won't be much if any water come out the pipe when you drill into it. It will drain toward the pool and actually suck in air a bit to start with. Unless your equipment is below water level. Then you need to seal the return line off somehow.
 

toofast

Well-known member
May 9, 2013
993
North East Ohio
Bama Rambler said:
I assume you're going to drill and tap the hole for the injection fitting. If so, then yes you'll be able to get a good seal. Since you have an inground pool with a sand filter, set the multiport to closed and there won't be much if any water come out the pipe when you drill into it. It will drain toward the pool and actually suck in air a bit to start with. Unless your equipment is below water level. Then you need to seal the return line off somehow.

Thanks for the reply...

Yes, as I thought drilling and tapping was my only option. Is there a "better way" ?

Yep my equip will be above water level, so thanks for that tip as well !
 

luna31d

Member
Feb 8, 2010
24
If your builder has not finished the pad plumbing. Have them put a T fitting in the return line. Use a slip/female thread/slip. Put a plug in female thread. When you install the Stenner the injection point is threaded. You may need an adapter to get the size correct. No drilling or tapping with this method.
 

Bama Rambler

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Other that Luna's suggestion of putting in a reducing Tee and a threaded adapter, drilling and tapping is the best method.
 

toofast

Well-known member
May 9, 2013
993
North East Ohio
luna31d said:
If your builder has not finished the pad plumbing. Have them put a T fitting in the return line. Use a slip/female thread/slip. Put a plug in female thread. When you install the Stenner the injection point is threaded. You may need an adapter to get the size correct. No drilling or tapping with this method.

Ok, I like the sound of this, but I am not sure what exactly I need to buy.

1) Assume T is something like this, just the correct size of course [attachment=0:2wsaodnw]THREADED T.jpg[/attachment:2wsaodnw]
I see I can get a threaded T, so if I could this would eliminate the adapter etc.

2) This is the PLUG that would be temp till I got the Stenner Injector[attachment=1:2wsaodnw]PLUG T.jpg[/attachment:2wsaodnw]

Is this what you were thinking ?

So ONLY follow up (assuming I got the above correct) is does anyone know the size of the Stenner Injection Point
This is all I could find on their site and nothing jumps out at me.

Accessories shipped with each pump
3 connecting nuts 1/4" or 3/8"
3 ferrules 1/4" & 6 mm OR 2 ferrules 3/8"
1 injection check valve
1 weighted strainer
1 20' roll of suction/discharge tubing 1/4" or 3/8" white or UV black
OR 6 mm (Europe) white
1 additional pump tube, 2 additional latches
1 mounting bracket, 1 manual
 

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toofast

Well-known member
May 9, 2013
993
North East Ohio
Ahhhhhh I found this....

[attachment=1:3lt7uyo2]Stenner Injection Check Valve.jpg[/attachment:3lt7uyo2]

So if I got this correct, this is for the 1/4 tubing and does that mean the threads are 1/4" as well you think ?

Also found this in the manual?

A 1/4" or 1/2" Female NPT (FNPT) connection is required for installing the injection
fitting. If there is no FNPT fitting available, provide one by either tapping the pipe or
installing FNPT pipe tee fitting.

What does it say 1/4" or 1/2" - here is the picture.

[attachment=0:3lt7uyo2]Stenner Injection Check Valve Picture.jpg[/attachment:3lt7uyo2]

Sorry if I am dense, just trying to get this right with my builder the first time!
 

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