how many ppm of FC to shock my pool/pond

Butterfly

TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
May 30, 2007
10,045
South Carolina
Hi Buzz & welcome,

If you will post a full set of numbers on your water, we can help you.

Also, listing all your pool and equipment info in your signature will be a big help.
 

JohnT

Admin
Mod Squad
TFP Expert
Apr 4, 2007
9,624
SW Indiana
Normally you want 15ppm in a liner pool or 25ppm in a gunite pool, but those are only starting point "safe" numbers. If your CYA is high, those may not be adequate. If your CYA is low, you may get by with lower levels, but by going with the safe numbers you will get the pool clear faster. The key thing to know is that it's important to stay at shock level, not just get there and let it drop. You'll be surprised how quickly the chlorine is consumed by green water. It will have dropped significantly in 4 hours, and may be almost gone in 8 hours.

Post test results and a description of your pool (it's handy just to put it in your signature) and someone will give you specific recommendations.
 

buzzbait00

Well-known member
Aug 10, 2007
75
North Alabama
OK!These are todays test results useing a TF-100

FC,6
CC,0.5
ph,8.2
T/A,110
CH,160
CYA,(I have a hard time with this test.If I fill the view tube til I can not make out what so ever any dark spot I get 20.The spot becomes barely visible around 30.)
Temp,74
 

JasonLion

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May 7, 2007
37,880
Silver Spring, MD
Alright, first step is to lower your PH down to around 7.4 so the chlorine can be effective. I would start with one quart of 31% muriatic acid, give it an hour to circulate and then test again and see where you are. The PH test reads numbers higher than 8.2 as 8.2, so your PH might actually be much higher.

Then you want to bring your FC level up to 12 and hold it there by retesting and adding more bleach as needed. It would also be good to brush the entire pool.

I call your CYA level 20. Long term you should bring it up to between 30 and 50, but there is no rush on that.
 

duraleigh

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Apr 1, 2007
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buzzbait00 said:
OK!These are todays test results useing a TF-100

FC,6
CC,0.5
ph,8.2
T/A,110
CH,160
CYA,(I have a hard time with this test.If I fill the view tube til I can not make out what so ever any dark spot I get 20.The spot becomes barely visible around 30.)
Temp,74
Hi, Buzz,

Pick up some muriatic acid and reduce the pH in your pool to around 7.2. Use JasonLion's calculator to tell you how much to use.

Next, get enough chlorine in there so that, when added to your existing chlorine, the total will equal 20ppm. Now, HOLD THAT 20PPM 24/7 in your pool until it clears. You'll have to run the pump 24/7 and backwash/clean your filter often.

May take a few days but the key is to keep adding chlorine until it clears up....it'll take alot more than you suspect.

The CYA test is a little hard to get used to. However, you're doing it right. That would make your CYA around 20ppm or so. (+ or - 10ppm is about as close as you can get.)
 

JohnT

Admin
Mod Squad
TFP Expert
Apr 4, 2007
9,624
SW Indiana
buzzbait00 said:
OK.Got the ph down to 7.6 and will add a little more m.acid tomorrow.Sorry didn't get in til late.What next?
Add enough bleach to get your water to 15ppm. Now comes the hard part: Go check it again an hour after you add the bleach. It will probably need more. You're going to have to check and add at least every 4 hours the first day, then every 8 hours after that or the chlorine will drop to nothing on you. Algae consumes chlorine quickly. The consistent high chlorine is the key to getting the water clear.
 

buzzbait00

Well-known member
Aug 10, 2007
75
North Alabama
Ok!Before I start adding more bleach,Their is some green/brown funk in places on the walls and on the bottom of the deep end.Should I brush or vacume it?If I use the vacume on it in like 10min or so funk stars comming out the returns and I have to keep backwashing.
 

JohnT

Admin
Mod Squad
TFP Expert
Apr 4, 2007
9,624
SW Indiana
buzzbait00 said:
Ok!Before I start adding more bleach,Their is some green/brown funk in places on the walls and on the bottom of the deep end.Should I brush or vacume it?If I use the vacume on it in like 10min or so funk stars comming out the returns and I have to keep backwashing.
You have a filter problem. How old is your filter, and what model is it? It could be as simple as not enough sand, or it could be damage to laterals inside the filter. What you vacuum should never come into the pool.
 

buzzbait00

Well-known member
Aug 10, 2007
75
North Alabama
Ill have to get back wit ya on the make/model.The filter is bout 12 years old.I took the lid off the other day.The sand was 4 or 5in from the top.How do I look for damage to laterals?Does all the sand have to come out?Do I have to buy that expensive "pool filter sand" or will other sand work?
 

JohnT

Admin
Mod Squad
TFP Expert
Apr 4, 2007
9,624
SW Indiana
buzzbait00 said:
Ill have to get back wit ya on the make/model.The filter is bout 12 years old.I took the lid off the other day.The sand was 4 or 5in from the top.How do I look for damage to laterals?Does all the sand have to come out?Do I have to buy that expensive "pool filter sand" or will other sand work?
You have to pull the sand to see the laterals, and you have to use pool sand. It is uniformly sized.
 

ktdave

LifeTime Supporter
May 8, 2007
888
Katy, TX
JohnT said:
buzzbait00 said:
Ok!Before I start adding more bleach,Their is some green/brown funk in places on the walls and on the bottom of the deep end.Should I brush or vacume it?If I use the vacume on it in like 10min or so funk stars comming out the returns and I have to keep backwashing.
You have a filter problem. How old is your filter, and what model is it? It could be as simple as not enough sand, or it could be damage to laterals inside the filter. What you vacuum should never come into the pool.
Not trying to insult anyones intelligence here, but make sure your multi-port valve on your filter is set to "filter" and not "recirculate". Or a faulty multi-port could cause some water to bypass the filter and return to the pool.

Just some things to think about.
 

buzzbait00

Well-known member
Aug 10, 2007
75
North Alabama
I took the sand out.The laterals do not apear to to be damaged.It's on filter.The multi-valve gasket was replaced last summer.How far up should the sand be?Are ya shure nothing should come out the returnes?The filter usually works fine.It only spits dirty water out the returns after I vacume alot of green stuff off the bottom.
 

JasonLion

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May 7, 2007
37,880
Silver Spring, MD
With a sand filter filled with sand nothing should come out of the returns that you can see. Very fine particles might get through, but you shouldn't be able to see them. One possibility is that the sand has become channelized, ie paths developed that let water go through the sand without really being filtered. Removing and then replacing the sand will take care of any channelization.

The height you fill sand up to varies from model to model. You should look it up in the manual for your filter.
 

buzzbait00

Well-known member
Aug 10, 2007
75
North Alabama
JasonLion said:
With a sand filter using sand nothing should come out of the returns that you can see. Very fine particles might get throug, but you shouldn't be able to see them. One possibility is that the sand became channelized, ie paths developed that let water go through the sand without really being filtered. Removing and then replacing the sand will take care of any channelization.

The height you fill sand up to varies from model to model. You should look it up in the manual for your filter.
I Have no manual for it and the model # is worn off.This is what I could get.PF Sand High Rate Sand Filter Pac.Fab
 

JasonLion

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May 7, 2007
37,880
Silver Spring, MD
That sounds like a Pentair Triton II, or some related model. Does it look like this or any of the others here? Once you get a visual match on the product line you can measure the diameter to figure out which specific model it is and then download the manual from the Pentair web site.
 

buzzbait00

Well-known member
Aug 10, 2007
75
North Alabama
JasonLion said:
That sounds like a Pentair Triton II, or some related model. Does it look like this or any of the others here? Once you get a visual match on the product line you can measure the diameter to figure out which specific model it is and then download the manual from the Pentair web site.
Neither of those it's older.
 

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