I have had issues for a long time with rising PH. What I know now is that the water coming into from the supply is around 8.0 itself. So no wonder I cannot get my PH in control. Thoughts?
High PH - New Finding
- Thread starter imureh
- Start date
Take and share a full set of test results. I have some ideas but want to see a full set of numbers before I guess.
Kim
Kim
Just keep adding acid to keep the pH in the mid 7s until it stays there. It will settle eventually.
Btw, your chlorine level needs to come up with such high CYA. You should be trying to hold it around 12ppm and never let it get below 8ppm.
Btw, your chlorine level needs to come up with such high CYA. You should be trying to hold it around 12ppm and never let it get below 8ppm.
The issue is that even if I get the PH there, with the water being added from the supply at 8.0ppm, it starts coming up.
- May 23, 2015
- 24,379
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Your alkalinity is too high. pH rise is entirely dominated by CO2 outgassing. While the chemistry of your incoming water is important, the pH of your fill water is irrelevant. The TA of your fill water is more important.
Try reducing your TA to less than 80ppm and see how stable your pH is.
(PS - Adjusted alkalinity is unnecessary to report. If your use Pool Math, it makes all the calculations internally and does not require the user to calculated adjusted alkalinity)
Try reducing your TA to less than 80ppm and see how stable your pH is.
(PS - Adjusted alkalinity is unnecessary to report. If your use Pool Math, it makes all the calculations internally and does not require the user to calculated adjusted alkalinity)
Have you seen this link?:
Pool School - Lower Total Alkalinity
If you get your TA down some it should help with the PH rise in the pool water. Now of course you will have to work on the PH every time you add water since your fill water is high but you can control it once it is in the pool.
Kim
Pool School - Lower Total Alkalinity
If you get your TA down some it should help with the PH rise in the pool water. Now of course you will have to work on the PH every time you add water since your fill water is high but you can control it once it is in the pool.
Kim
Thanks all for your inputs. The TA of the fill water is about 205 and PH as I said was about 8. Also, in the K-2006 test kit, the water chemistry booklet states that Taylor recommends to use Adjusted Alkalinity, so I am a bit confused. If the Alkalinity is too low, would that not impact the plaster finish etc?
- May 23, 2015
- 24,379
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Alkalinity is only one of several parameters that determine the scaling potential or corrosivity pool water. Adjusted alkalinity is nothing more than the total alkalinity minus the cyanurate portion of the alkalinity. It is meant to give you a measure of the carbonate alkalinity (unless you have borates which adds to the alkalinity). So the adjusted alkalinity, or total alkalinity for that matter, doesn't mean anything all in its own.
If you're interested in how aggressive your water is, then you calculate a saturation index that accounts for all of the factors that go into calcium saturation. TFP recommends the use of the Calcite Saturation Index (CSI). The Taylor WaterGram calculates the Langlier Saturation Index (LSI). Pool heater manufacturers have recently started specifying the Ryznar Index (RI) for warranty purposes.
Having low TA or high TA is not meaningful because you can simply adjust other parameters (pH and CH) to compensate.
Keep adding acid to move it back down. It will eventually stabilize. Faster if you do the TA lowering process.
So no impact to plaster finish and equipment is TA is low around 60-70? Its amazing that my fill water TA is 205 and PH 8. In Houston heat the auto fill runs a lot so no wonder I have issues keeping PH in control
Definitely need to lower your TA. With the TA of your fill water you will always fight this. I keep my TA 50-60 and still have to add acid once every couple weeks.
- Jan 4, 2016
- 5,288
- Pool Size
- 44000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
Low TA by itself can not have any impact on plaster or equipment, unless the low TA causes your index (CSI) value to be too low.
A pool cover may not be an option, but I'll mention it just to add to the potential bag of tricks. (reduce evaporation to reduce added TA from fill water)
A pool cover may not be an option, but I'll mention it just to add to the potential bag of tricks. (reduce evaporation to reduce added TA from fill water)
I think what the OP is asking is, is there anything that can be done to the supply water before it goes to the pool? Otherwise the pH will just keep going up regardless of the rest of the chemistry.
I would suggest using a rain barrel to collect water from the gutter system if you have one.
I would suggest using a rain barrel to collect water from the gutter system if you have one.
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