High limit error - Jandy LXI 400n

Kevinrunner

Bronze Supporter
Jun 17, 2019
5
Katy, TX
Pool Size
14000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
2008-ish model. The High Limit Switchs are bad and had corrupted the Controller Power Interface PCB and possibly the Ignition Control. I can find "Teledyne Laars Jandy Parts" on Parts4heating but major concern is the are aftermarket parts and not "Genuine Jandy". To spend $1000 dollars for parts than may not last then have to dump $1000s more for a new heater seems like a risk.
Thoughts on the parts vs biting the bullet for a new heater. This one has lasted 12 years. Note: Jandy has discontinued most of the parts for the heater.
 
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I don't see how a bad HLS switch can corrupt the PCB or ignition module. There must be more going on with the heater.

At 12 years old you have gotten most of the useful life from it.

If you want to discuss the problems with your heater let's get @swamprat69 involved.

 
The explanation is the HLS switch has failed allowing water in. The short has caused the PCB, or at least there is a question of, to short or fail. So it appears as if it is questionable if the PCB is working or not.
 
A little more detail of the troubleshooting involved in diagnosing exactly what is wrong with your heater would be helpful. From your description of the problem I am assuming that you did not self-diagnose the problem with your heater, but were told the description of the problem by a technician that you called in to fix/repair your heater. To start with, the high limit switches are attached to the underside of the water header. It is highly unlikely that a water leak at the attachment to or from the water header itself would spray water that would cause a short to or directly effect either the PCB or Fenwal as they are both mounted higher and have a different orientation than the water header. The transformer secondary is fused to protect the transformer and 24 Volt circuit against excessive amp draw ( a short). The high limit switches appear to be self contained externally mounted-temperature operated switches that would require an active leak at the header and a break in the casing in order to short out. If there is an active leak at the water header, it should be addressed first so that any parts (if actually needed) do not fail in the same way as the previous parts. I do not have a lot of faith in the diagnosis as it was presented to you by the technician. It seems more likely that you may have an overtemp problem that has caused the high limits to fail from over-cycling as they are meant to be a safety control rather than an operating control. If you do not feel safe/comfortable troubleshooting yourself, I would get a second/third etc. opinion from a "qualified" company/technician (possibly NATE certified) before throwing parts at the heater in an attempt to repair. I will be happy to assist you more if you can give me any further information.
 
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