High chlorine, pool still green

Eilum

Well-known member
Jun 19, 2016
102
Jackson NJ
My pool has been green since opening, although the water did clear alot and the green is lighter, but still there. Here are the numbers according to TF-100, is there anything here that accounts for the green?

FC 21
CC 0
CH 150
TA 120
PH 7.6 (after 30 seconds color darkened to 8.2,which reading should I use?)
CYA 0-10

Also, the according to the measurements on the website, the pool is about 30,000 gallons. But I found the original documents from when the pool was installed and it shows volume of 24.300! Which do I use?

Thanks
 

DKT113

Well-known member
Jun 28, 2012
336
Butler, PA
I am sure you will be asked to put your specific pool details in your signature so people helping can see what you have. While you figure that out there are instructions for doing so on the forum, edit and add them above in your original post, then do the official signature.

There is an abundance of detail that accounts for the green, nothing that can't be rectified, but with no CYA and that high FC you need to get your details listed so someone can get you sorted.
 

Eilum

Well-known member
Jun 19, 2016
102
Jackson NJ
Ok. This is an in ground 18x43 (18x34x43) lazy el pool. 30,000 gallon although documents list as 24,300 gallon, so not sure.

300 lb sand filter, 1.5 HP

2-3 hrs sun
 

DKT113

Well-known member
Jun 28, 2012
336
Butler, PA
You need to get stabilizer in the pool, your Free Chlorine is a bit high for your current reading of 21.
I believe they recommend starting at 30, I am not an expert, just a forum participant ~ but I do know you will be advised to bring that up.

Your pH is high, but I believe that is due to the free chlorine you have in there currently.

Liquid stabilizer goes in right in front of the return, granular you can put in a tube sock, nylon, pair of tights and allow it to dangle in front of the return.
With that vinyl liner you'll want to get on that so the stabilizer protects the liner from all that chlorine.

Between now and then someone in the know will be in here to assist you, but you won't be making a mistake letting that FC drift down a bit while you bring up the stabilizer.
 

Texas Splash

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jun 22, 2014
30,651
Texas, San Antonio/Marion, South-Central Area
Pool Size
17888
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Hello again! :wave: :p Those are some pretty good notes above. In preparation for your SLAM, you definitely need a minimum CYA of 30. So you may want to add about 20 ppm worth or stabilizer if you believe there is some currently in the water.
To increase CYA via granular stabilizer, place the required amount as calculated by the Poolmath calculator into a white sock and place in the poolside skimmer basket. For those concerned about suction flow to the pump, suspending the sock near a return jet or from a floating device will also suffice. Best never to allow undissolved granules to rest directly against the pool surface. Squeeze the sock periodically to help it dissipate. Once dissolved, consider your CYA adjusted to that programmed (target) level. CYA test readings should show a rise in 24-48 hours, however some pools may experience a longer delay to fully register. Best to confirm final CYA in about 5-7 days before adding any more stabilizer/conditioner.

pH needs to be lowered to about 7.2. Read immediately after adding the 5 drops. Most reagents begin to change after they sit. Lastly, maintain your FC at "12" - that's based on a CYA that will be adjusted to 30. If you find later in a few days that your CYA is way off (from 30) let us know and we'll help you adjust.

So, CYA of 30, pH of 7.2, and FC of 12 ... then "SLAM" (link below). Good luck!
 
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