Hi! I’ve got green cloudy water and questions.

Ckb3

Member
Jul 23, 2021
14
Orlando
Pool Size
27000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
A Little about the setup. We’re located in central florida and my biggest challenge is the pool being located about 20 minutes from my home with time is always my biggest problem. Someone does live at the property and can assist with pool car under specific direction when needed.

We have a Splash Super pool 41.5’ x 21.5’ x 48” that is solely used for Dogs and Dog Dock Jumping. The dock is a 40’ triple axel enclosed trailer with steps to the top and a ramp that gets dogs out of the pool. It’s a great time but our biggest concern is ensuring the water is safe for the dogs.

We run two Intex SF60110-2 16” sand filters at adjacent corners of the pool. A vacuum on one filter and a skimmer on the other. On the skimmer side I have a Hayward inline chlorinator CL200. The suction lines are at the pump locations and the return lines are on opposite corners giving a circular flow. Both filters run 24hrs a day. When dogs are in the water, we remove the vacuum and connect a second skimmer.

Everything was going great until about a month ago. The pool started to get cloudy/green and everything settles on the bottom.
We didn’t plan on leaving the pool up like we have. It’s typically a weekend setup and breakdown for events/competitions. However, in the COVID world we live in, we setup the pool on 1/1 and its been operating ever since. I have never had a pool before and if I had any hair left to pull out I just might. As I have read hear already, I’ve been pool schooled by leslies. The most frustrating part is that every time I go in, someone has a different answer/solution to the problems. So, I’m here hoping to get things back on track. Ive downlowded the pool math app and input the last months of water tests from Leslies in there. I don’t have a testing kit of my own and also read I should get one of my own So that’s on order now.

This weekend I drained about 16” of water and refilled Because my CYA was at 144. The products being used are all from Leslies but primarily we use their 3” jumbo tablets in the chlorinator and the Chlor Brite for shock.

Test results BEFORE DRAINING ON 7/22:
FC - 5.8
CC - 7.5
pH - 7.7
TA - 0
CH - 213
CyA - 126

Test results after Vacuum to waste and sucking out all the green I could/drain ON 7/24:
FC - 2.7
CC - 3.0
pH - 6.9
TA - 0
CH - 224
CyA - 144

Test Results after refill ON 7/25
FC - 0.2
CC - 0.3
pH - 7.0
TA - 63
CH - 233
CyA - 118

I’ve looked briefly at the SLAM method but haven’t fully understood the process. I have been told by Leslie’s that I can’t use liquid chlorine on my pool because it will damage the liner. So, I’m here and hoping for some guidance. What’s the best way to get back to swimmable and that will be safe for dogs cause I’m loosing this battle. Any advice offered will be greatly appreciated.

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Thank you,
Ckb3
 
Welcome to the forum!
You need to follow the SLAM Process. To do that, you need a proper test kit. I suggest the TF-100 or Taylor K2006C. A proper test kit is needed to get the accurate water chemistry results needed to follow the TFP protocols.

While you are waiting on your test kit, add 5 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine / plain bleach to your pool each evening with the pump running. This will replenish the FC lost each day to the sun and also inhibit any algae in the water from growing further.

I have been told by Leslie’s that I can’t use liquid chlorine on my pool because it will damage the liner.
They are full of it.

It is very likely you will need to drain well over half of the pool volume and refill with fresh water.
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.
 
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@mknauss I’ll check out the ABC’s of pool water now. Thanks for the link. If I am going to drain the water and refill, Would it be best to do that first before I start adding chlorine?
 
Welcome to TFP.

You say prior to Covid you regularly put up the pool and filled and drained it. So you know how to drain and refill the pool. Just drain the pool, refill it with fresh water, then being following TFP methods using liquid chlorine.
 
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That is up to you. We do not use pool store tests for guidance. So if you believe their data, then yes, do one drain (depending on your pool type - please fill out your signature- you can drain half or more of the volume) and then when you get your test kit you may need to do another. Or you may find their test data was complete fallacy, which is pretty typical, and you did not need to drain at all.
 
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If I am going to drain the water and refill, Would it be best to do that first before I start adding chlorine?
Drain

Refill

Add 30 PPM of dry stabilizer to fresh water and 5 ppm of liquid chlorine and go from there.

 
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Can I use this until I can get bulk chlorine from the pool store?
 

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I'm back with a test kit and water sample. I have added a gallon of liquid chlorine daily around 6PM-7PM starting this past Monday (so 4 gallons and documented on pool math.) I followed what I believe I read for how to test free chlorine and combined chlorine BUT, since it was my first test, I feel less than confident I did it correctly. I performed a FC and CC test using the Taylor K-2006C kit and following the directions to Operating an AH-64 Apache attack helicopter for pool water chemistry.


My FC took 21 drops (divided by 2 gives me 10.5 FC right?
Then in step 7). If solution stays clear, no CCs. If it goes pink again, add drops of R-0871 and same as FC, Count and Divide by 2 for CCs. It used 1 drop to make it clear again. What does that mean for my CC? 0.5ppm?

Next I attempted a pH test and that was pretty straight forward with the test kit instructions. I believe its 7.3 or 7.4 depending on my eyes and light outside.

Finally, I tried to do a Total Alkalinity test because it seemed simple and this is all new to me. I added 14 drops to turn from green to red. That calculates to a TA of 140ppm.

So, My test results if correct:
FC - 10.5
CC - 0.5
PH - 7.3
TA - 140

After lack of confidence, it stopped by Leslies for a test too. The results from them are:
FC-11.16
TC - 11.16
pH - 7.5
TA - 71* adjusted due to CYA
CH - 228 (No idea how to test this on my own yet.)
CYA - 120 (Have already done a partial drain and refill and will try to get another one done to lower this more)

The pool Looks much better today compared to same last week(water is clear but there is green slime on the bottom where the vacuum doesn't get to (corners and walls). Only chemicals added have been liquid chlorine and any manual vacuuming is done to waste. Filters are being backwashed daily and run 24/7.
Any testing guidance/advice and steps to move forward would be greatly appreciated.

Pool.jpg
 

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Um, Following the kit directions, it didn't reach the 100ppm level marker and I can only assume its over 100ppm. Its part lack of confidence and part not understanding the test yet that makes me unsure if I did this correctly.
 
Ok. Do a diluted test. Use one part pool water and one part tap water for your sample. Double what result you get.
 
To make sure I understand that correctly; the test indicates to fill bottle #9191 to 7mL. So, does that mean for a diluted test I need 7mL of pool water and 7mL of tap water, then add 14ml of the R-0013 reagent? Sorry, if I misunderstand this and I appreciate your help.
 
Easier is to get a cup of pool water and a cup of tap water. Mix them and use that for your 7ml sample.
 
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Still very high and looks like ill be doing some draining this weekend.
Good job. I would target half your pool volume. Should be safe to do that with your AG pool.
Keep your FC up above 5 ppm during the process.
 
Thank you. I won't be able to do this until Sunday. Until then, is the pool safe to be in/swim? I have updated my pool math app to reflect the tests I just performed.
 

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