Hi from Southeast Florida with Salt Water Generator Problems


New member
Sep 21, 2021
Stuart, FL
I sure hope someone can help me here. I have a Hayward Aquarite SWG. It all started with the "no Flow" light staying solid. I have replaced the no-flow switch. The light then began to blink. But still wasn't generating sale. I replaced the PCB Board. Now I have the "No flow" switch blinking for about 30-60 seconds and then the "generating" light comes on for about 10 seconds and goes out. The power light does not light at all. I have checked the fuse which looks fine. This is a brand new board so I'm hoping it's not faulty but I have my doubts. Does anyone have any other ideas they'd like to share? I certainly would appreciate it.

We have an inground 40,000 gallon, 40 x 20 pool with a Hayward cartridge filter with Hayward Aquarite Saltwater Generator.
Last edited:


TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
For AquaRite, move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.

Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.

Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.

Switching the unit off and then back on makes the unit reverse polarity.

Report all readings.
  • Default salt display
  • Pool temp
  • Cell Voltage - When not generating, the voltage is about 30 to 32 volts dc. When generating, the voltage drops about 1 volt per amp of current.
  • Cell current
  • Desired output (% of the knob)
  • Instant salinity
  • Product name
  • Software revision (r.XX)
  • Cell type
When the switch is off, the voltage should be about 30 to 31 volts.

If it is 15 volts, then you probably have the voltage selector set incorrectly.

A new board comes set to 240 volts.

If you apply 120 volts, it will not work properly.

Note: If the supply voltage is 240 volts DO NOT change the jumpers to 120 volts or you will burn up the board.

Can you shown a picture of the new board?

What is the supply voltage?

Are all of the wires connected correctly to the new board?

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