Help with Planning New Equipment Layout

pool512

Member
Jul 12, 2021
14
Georgetown, TX
Pool Size
16000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
I'm working on a project to redo my equipment pad. This is what it looked like to start. Issues included:
1. Heater didn't work but still wired up
2. SWG salt cell removed but control panel still in place and wired up
3. Polaris booster disconnected but still wired up
4. Waterfall pump was very loud and most parts were worn out
5. Equipment pad was 2 pre-formed slabs and were badly out of level (DE filter was sliding off back)

old setup.png

So, I disconnected the old heater, SWG, and Polaris booster, and hauled off, and I replaced everything on the old noisy waterfall pump. I also leveled the pads. That got me to here (I am also rebuilding the enclosure):

in progress setup.png

Over the last couple days, we pulled all the equipment off, removed the pre-formed slabs, and poured a new 9x3 slab (to fit the new Raypak heater sitting on the pallet in the leftmost position). That leads to my question... I was to fix the plumbing as we put everything back together, but am looking for some advice. Issues include:
1. Leak on one of the waterfall valves
2. Old skimmer and waterfall valves are not working well and can't be repaired
3. Plumbing looks like a spaghetti mess due to DE filter being to the right of the pool pump

It seems like ideally I would swap the DE filter and pool pump to eliminate all the extra runs. Would this be feasible with the current location of the incoming plumbing (from drain and skimmer)?

I'm also thinking I should swap out the blue valves for something serviceable. The Jandy NeverLube (4716) seem ideal, but they are very hard to find available. Are there good alternatives, or good sources I may be missing?

Thanks much! All the great advice here has really been terrific as I tackle this project.
 

ajw22

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 21, 2013
29,659
Northern NJ
Pool Size
35000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
If you hookup your new heater with the chlorinator on the output to it your new heater will be corroded by the acidic water from the chlorinator within a short time.

At a minimum you need a check valve on the heater output and that does not really last with the chlorinator acid. Long term fix is to dump the tablet chlorinator and install a SWG to generate the needed chlorine.
 

pool512

Member
Jul 12, 2021
14
Georgetown, TX
Pool Size
16000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Thanks Allen! It's hard to see in the photo, but the chlorinator is on the output side of the heater with a Jandy check valve in-between. The check valve was shot, so I replaced the guts of it, even though I've rarely used the chlorinator (only when my CYA drops or we're going to be away from home). I switched to liquid chlorine shortly after finding this site and getting the Pool Math app, but still have 2 40# buckets of tabs to use up at some point. I would definitely like to to switch to SWG, but had to prioritize the improvements and use up the existing stockpile.
 
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