Help with my first SLAM

[scs999]

I think I'm doing ok but am looking for some experienced help!

First time "pool" owner here. Covid sent us shopping for a SummerWaves quick-set above ground pool (1.1k gal). Filled it with tap water (big mistake, water is very hard here). At this point in the summer I'm not willing to empty/refill with water delivery so I'm trying to make the current chemistry work for the last month-ish of summer.

Here's a quick overview of what's happened in the last month:
1. Added chlorine to hard water = green. Added lots of Metal Out and it sort of cleared back up. Still slightly cloudy but hardness down and no longer green and no more rust on filter.
2. Maintaining 3-5 ppm FC daily (give or take), algaeacide 2-3x a week, clean cartridge filter 1-2x a day.
3. Added shock on Tuesday. (Accidentally over did it cause I can't do math apparently)
4. Water still cloudy but a white cloudy (as opposed to a murky cloudy)
5. Starting the SLAM method today. Dumped in 4-5 cups of clorox bleach.

Current chemistry:
TC = 10 ppm
FC = 10 ppm
pH = 7.6
TA = 80
CYA = 40
CH = 200

Am I on the right path and just need to keep maintaining the 10ppm FC until it starts to clear? TIA!

 

[Texas Splash]

Welcome to TFP! Before we too far ahead of ourselves, I have to confirm ..... are you sure that pool size is only just over 1,000 gallons? That will driver what to do next.

 

[scs999]

Very sure. 10' diameter, 24" water level.

https://www.biglots.com/product/10-x-30-metal-frame-pool/p810414193

 

[Texas Splash]

In that case, there's really no need to do a SLAM Process like larger pools. It's easier to simply dump the water, clean, and refill. See our link below for more guidance on smaller pools. If you still have question though, please ask.

Guide for Seasonal/Temporary Pools

Smaller seasonal pools can see just as much enjoyment as their larger counterparts. In this guide we'll show you how to maintain your temporary pool.

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[scs999]

In that case, there's really no need to do a SLAM Process like larger pools. It's easier to simply dump the water, clean, and refill. See our link below for more guidance on smaller pools. If you still have question though, please ask.

Guide for Seasonal/Temporary Pools

Smaller seasonal pools can see just as much enjoyment as their larger counterparts. In this guide we'll show you how to maintain your temporary pool.

www.troublefreepool.com

Appreciate that! I'd really like to avoid dumping/refilling mostly because here in NE Ohio, we probably only have about 1 more month of swim weather.

Thanks for the link to the guide. I do see there is a section on there that might be where I land:
" If draining the pool doesn’t appeal to you, you need to plan on investing in a top-quality test kit (see this article at pool school for comparisons of the three test kits TFP recommends) — all three are generally only available on-line so you’ll need to plan a couple of days for shipping. Come back to the forum, read pool school two or three times, and post your questions. We’ll help you out. "

I don't have a top-quality test kit. Is that what I'm missing? I feel like my current test strips give me what I need, just maybe not as fine-tuned?

Thanks so much for your quick answers! I'm stuck between calling it quits and pushing through until I have clear water!

 

[batesjer]

We know you said you don't want to fill from tap because of hard water but if your CH is really at 200, and that is the hardness of your fill water, you are never going to run into an issue of that being too high. You don't really need it in your vinyl liner pool but you also don't need to worry about it unless you are never draining and refilling over multiple seasons.

 

[scs999]

Appreciate that! I'd really like to avoid dumping/refilling mostly because here in NE Ohio, we probably only have about 1 more month of swim weather.

Thanks for the link to the guide. I do see there is a section on there that might be where I land:
" If draining the pool doesn’t appeal to you, you need to plan on investing in a top-quality test kit (see this article at pool school for comparisons of the three test kits TFP recommends) — all three are generally only available on-line so you’ll need to plan a couple of days for shipping. Come back to the forum, read pool school two or three times, and post your questions. We’ll help you out. "

I don't have a top-quality test kit. Is that what I'm missing? I feel like my current test strips give me what I need, just maybe not as fine-tuned?

Thanks so much for your quick answers! I'm stuck between calling it quits and pushing through until I have clear water!

And I should add that these pools are not recommended to be winterized - so I'd hate to fill with fresh, clean water and then be dumping it in a month or so.

 

[scs999]

We know you said you don't want to fill from tap because of hard water but if your CH is really at 200, and that is the hardness of your fill water, you are never going to run into an issue of that being too high. You don't really need it in your vinyl liner pool but you also don't need to worry about it unless you are never draining and refilling over multiple seasons.

I should clarify - the CH of 200 is AFTER almost a full bottle of Metal Out. Tap water itself is 500+.

 

[Texas Splash]

Is that what I'm missing?

It is, yes. We recommend the TF-100 (my choice) or the Taylor K-2006C. Both of those are great homeowner kits that provide reliable results. Since you wish to give the SLAM Process a shot, try to get one of those kits as soon as you can. See HERE to order. Keep in mind the key to a successful SLAM Process is achieving and maintaining the proper SLAM FC level based on your current CYA. So an accurate CYA test is required first, then increasing the FC to the proper level on that chart. But look it over and let us know how you wish to proceed. We'll do our best to help you either way.

 

[batesjer]

The problem with slamming without a good test kit (Taylor 2006c of TFT-100) is that you need to know your CYA level exactly before slam and the FC level exactly during the slam. If you are off by a bit on each you will be spinning your wheels trying to clear the pool.

 

[scs999]

THANK YOU!

I will look at the TF-100 right away! I'll keep you posted on progress!

 

[Texas Splash]

Now that you plan on keeping the water, some other very important notes:
- No more algaecides. Many have copper in them which turns the water colors and can stain. Algaecide does not kill algae.
- Metal Out is really for containing iron. So unless you have iron in your water supply, I wouldn't bother with that either. If you see a stain in your pool that won't come off by brushing, it may be iron. Rub a Vitamin C tablet on it as a test.
- Read our ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry. Chlorine, in the proper amount, is always your best sanitation. We recommend liquid chlorine or regular bleach. Avoid Clorox brand bleach because they add fabric products. Also avoid splashless and scented bleaches.

There are some other Vital Links below in my signature that should help you.

 

[scs999]

Now that you plan on keeping the water, some other very important notes:
- No more algaecides. Many have copper in them which turns the water colors and can stain. Algaecide does not kill algae.
- Metal Out is really for containing iron. So unless you have iron in your water supply, I wouldn't bother with that either. If you see a stain in your pool that won't come off by brushing, it may be iron. Rub a Vitamin C tablet on it as a test.
- Read our ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry. Chlorine, in the proper amount, is always your best sanitation.

There are some other Vital Links below in my signature that should help you.

Definitely iron in our water! My orange shower liner will tell you that.

 

[Texas Splash]

Definitely iron in our water! My orange shower liner will tell you that.

Probably not much you can do with that right now due to being such a small pool and limited filtration. I suspect you have a very small cartridge filter. So the Metal Out might help keep the iron in solution form. Also try to keep your pH a little lower. That may help keep the iron from reacting with the chlorine so much. Sequestraunts like Metal Out need to be added routinely or as needed. Next season, I would recommend making a pre-filter from the hose though a container like a 5-gallon bucket filled with polyfill. The polyfill should help to catch the iron before it goes into the pool next year. If you catch enough of the iron, you might not even have to use Metal Out next year, or at least not as much.

 

[scs999]

Probably not much you can do with that right now due to being such a small pool and limited filtration. I suspect you have a very small cartridge filter. So the Metal Out might help keep the iron in solution form. Also try to keep your pH a little lower. That may help keep the iron from reacting with the chlorine so much. Sequestraunts like Metal Out need to be added routinely or as needed. Next season, I would recommend making a pre-filter from the hose though a container like a 5-gallon bucket filled with polyfill. The polyfill should help to catch the iron before it goes into the pool next year. If you catch enough of the iron, you might not even have to use Metal Out next year, or at least not as much.

... or, next summer I'm getting water delivered...

 

[scs999]

One last question - looks like my test kit will be here on Monday. Should I just abandon the SLAM process and "let it ride" until then?

 

[scs999]

UPDATE: I give up! Having water delivered this afternoon. Made zero progress on the SLAM.

The good news is I'm well versed in the TF-100 test kit so I feel like I have a better chance of not screwing the balance up this time. But here's my question that I can't find in Pool School (unless I missed it):

I'm starting with fresh water. Is there a particular recipe of adding chemicals? Does it matter in what order I do everything?

TIA!

 

[scs999]

Probably not much you can do with that right now due to being such a small pool and limited filtration. I suspect you have a very small cartridge filter. So the Metal Out might help keep the iron in solution form. Also try to keep your pH a little lower. That may help keep the iron from reacting with the chlorine so much. Sequestraunts like Metal Out need to be added routinely or as needed. Next season, I would recommend making a pre-filter from the hose though a container like a 5-gallon bucket filled with polyfill. The polyfill should help to catch the iron before it goes into the pool next year. If you catch enough of the iron, you might not even have to use Metal Out next year, or at least not as much.

UPDATE: I give up! Having water delivered this afternoon. Made zero progress on the SLAM.

The good news is I'm well versed in the TF-100 test kit so I feel like I have a better chance of not screwing the balance up this time. But here's my question that I can't find in Pool School (unless I missed it):

I'm starting with fresh water. Is there a particular recipe of adding chemicals? Does it matter in what order I do everything?

TIA!

 

[Texas Splash]

I'm starting with fresh water. Is there a particular recipe of adding chemicals? Does it matter in what order I do everything?

Yes, trying to perform a SLAM Process in such a small pool can be quite challenging. But now that you've changed the water, here's your basic get-well recipe:
1. You need stabilizer (CYA). If this was a 100% fresh fill, you need to add 30 ppm worth of stabilizer.
2. Add some chlorine. On day one, only about 3 ppm worth. Tomorrow you can resume balancing as noted on the FC/CYA Levels or increase the FC to 12 to resume the SLAM Process if needed.
3. Check and adjust the pH to the mid 7s. If you are going to resume the SLAM Process, lower the pH to 7.2 first.

That's really it. Easy right? Don't worry so much about the TA right now. CH should be N/A for your pool type. If you have any other difficulties, let us know.

 

[scs999]

Yes, trying to perform a SLAM Process in such a small pool can be quite challenging. But now that you've changed the water, here's your basic get-well recipe:
1. You need stabilizer (CYA). If this was a 100% fresh fill, you need to add 30 ppm worth of stabilizer.
2. Add some chlorine. On day one, only about 3 ppm worth. Tomorrow you can resume balancing as noted on the FC/CYA Levels or increase the FC to 12 to resume the SLAM Process if needed.
3. Check and adjust the pH to the mid 7s. If you are going to resume the SLAM Process, lower the pH to 7.2 first.

That's really it. Easy right? Don't worry so much about the TA right now. CH should be N/A for your pool type. If you have any other difficulties, let us know.

Definitely easy! Thanks so much for all your help! Very happy to have clear water again and happy kids!