HELP! Valves, Manifolds, Automation Actuators

dannyparm

Member
Oct 12, 2020
9
Hendersonville, TN
The rough plumbing is in and running to my pool pad. I'm so excited. But I'm so confused about diagraming this for optimal use. Please see the attached pictures.

#1. Do I start by just putting single or true union ball valves on each of these?
#2. or Do I create manifods / connections first...for example do ever need control skimmer 1 vs skimmer 2? should those be tied together and then have an actuator and jandy valve because I do need to control suction. Same with pool returns. Just tie them all together first with a mainfold and then jandy valve that so that pool returns are on/off ...not needing to control each one individually. Or do I?

I'm confused with flow and where and what valves go where. Any help and advice is appreciated!!!! If someone helps me figure this out I promise to send some Starbucks or amazon gift cards there way!
 

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I wanted full control over every single connection so I went with all 2 way Jandy neverlube valves..

That way I can control exactly how much water I pull from every skimmer and suction side port.

I can control exactly how much water goes to each return so every return can be exactly the same or more or less from individual returns...

This is the most expensive way of doing it but also the best way to control everything exactly how you want it...

The fist time I did mine I used 3 way valves and I can pull 50/50 or 70/30 and so on but I can not set 70/70 like I will be able to on my new setup, I can still set 70/30 though...

You could plumb all your returns into T's and connect them straight to the return.. you get what you get with this setup and have no control..

So the answer depends on how much control you want over your setup...
 
I see a box labeled "Chlorine Mineral" on your schematic. Mineral systems should not be used. They add copper and silver to the water that will accumulate in the pool and eventually lead to staining. The minor benefits they may provide are not worth the long term problems they create. Use a chlorinator or SWG without any mineral system.


 
I wanted full control over every single connection so I went with all 2 way Jandy neverlube valves..

That way I can control exactly how much water I pull from every skimmer and suction side port.

I can control exactly how much water goes to each return so every return can be exactly the same or more or less from individual returns...

This is the most expensive way of doing it but also the best way to control everything exactly how you want it...

The fist time I did mine I used 3 way valves and I can pull 50/50 or 70/30 and so on but I can not set 70/70 like I will be able to on my new setup, I can still set 70/30 though...

You could plumb all your returns into T's and connect them straight to the return.. you get what you get with this setup and have no control..

So the answer depends on how much control you want over your setup...
Thanks for the reply! Do you have a pool spa combo where you are having to control water distribution (spill over and isolation during heating)? And if so do you have ALL these Jandy valves hooked up to an actuator. I have 12 pipes so the pricetag would be huge!
 
Basic pool/spa combo just requires two actuators on suction and return valves to control distribution and isolate for heating and control spillover.
 
My take, granted the return actuator can be calibrated to be regular spillover With filter pump running or if you want to isolate spa and program a spa spillover. If it’s below the pool level I would recommend ball valves on everything or two port diverters(it will save plugging if you have a leak) I’m not that familiar with Hayward products so I couldn’t talk you through the omnilogic. You probably have another actuator open slot to divert skimmers if this is a preference. I would recommend a vs on the jet pump so you can can control jet speeds.
 

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My take, granted the return actuator can be calibrated to be regular spillover With filter pump running or if you want to isolate spa and program a spa spillover. If it’s below the pool level I would recommend ball valves on everything or two port diverters(it will save plugging if you have a leak) I’m not that familiar with Hayward products so I couldn’t talk you through the omnilogic. You probably have another actuator open slot to divert skimmers if this is a preference. I would recommend a vs on the jet pump so you can can control jet speeds.
Wow thank you so much for taking the time to draw this out. I'm still learning how diverters and actuators work but I think this is what I need to at least get going on things!
 
I would not use the ball valves to save my life.. They will die within 2 to 4 years and have to be replaced, x6 valves =18 valves in 10 years.. this will cost more than buying Jandy valves and doing it right the first time.. The only way they will work is if you set them for the first year and then they stay in exactly the same spot and you never plan to move them, then maybe...

I would also add a 3 way valve and check valve on your heater so you can bypass it when you are not using it or working on it.. it will help your overall flow when the heater is not running :)

 

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