Ok got it. In order to keep the CSI positive for the time being is it wise/safe to push any of the parameters used to calculate outside of their recommended range? Currently it seems as if I can raise my TA to about 90 to help get up closer to a CSI at zero. But with CH where its at I'm not seeing how to get up to that range while staying within the target levels. And as always thank you so much for the help. I know I have a lot of questions and your teaching is greatly appreciated.
HELP: New Plaster Start-Up Questions
- Thread starter chubbs
- Start date
- May 3, 2014
- 58,351
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
The low water temperature is depressing the CSI. You can add some alkalinity with baking soda. When the water warms, you will be adding a bit more acid but might be a good insurance policy.
I see no real reason to use csi as a guideline in this pool. With a CH of 140, there is no danger of calcium saturation so I would stop chasing it.
I disagree with many on this forum and have for years.........If you are able to keep CH, pH, TA within normal parameters with your fill water (and you are in this pool), there is no important point to csi.
I disagree with many on this forum and have for years.........If you are able to keep CH, pH, TA within normal parameters with your fill water (and you are in this pool), there is no important point to csi.
Chubbs,
Could you post a current CH test result? I am curious if you are trending in either direction. Please use the Taylor test
Could you post a current CH test result? I am curious if you are trending in either direction. Please use the Taylor test
Last edited:
Sorry duraleigh, I didn't see your reply. I just went out and checked the CH with my Taylor Kit (I've only been using that and the TF-100 to test) and I came up with 150ppm this morning on two separate tests.
All in all, that's a good reading. Now that you have established a steady baseline,, I would suggest you bring it up to 250 and that level hopefully will stay steady throughout the swim season. I would check it monthly looking for any trends.
This is where my pre-TFP ignorance was bliss. I had no scale or reasons to calculate my CSI but after i understood it, at times I was chasing a # that was irrelevant. Certainly a plaster pool has more concern than my vinyl, but without a reason to look further into it, if it ain’t broke don’t fix it.
Ok sounds good. I'll pick up some Calcium Chloride to get it up to 250 and keep an eye on it. Thanks for all the help and advice.
The only thing I might add is to change the resolution on your CH test. If you follow the guidelines on the TF-100 instructions using 10 ml as a sample, you will obtain a resolution of 25 ppm per drop which is all the accuracy needed for our purposes