HELP: New Plaster Start-Up Questions

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Your FC is too low. Keep it at 5 or above, do not let it get below 4, ever. An algae outbreak at day 8 would be bad. The NPC's "1.5 to 3 ppm" was for before CYA. Now that you have a CYA level of 30, follow the TFP FC/CYA chart, but ignore the Minimum of 2ppm, use the low end of the Target range (4ppm) as your minimum, a false bottom as it were, so that you have a built-in safety margin.
 
You can reduce the RPM to whatever you need to skim the surface. Also reduce the run time if you like. If you have TOU electrical run it when the cost is least.
 
Dirk said:
Your FC is too low. Keep it at 5 or above, do not let it get below 4, ever. An algae outbreak at day 8 would be bad. The NPC's "1.5 to 3 ppm" was for before CYA. Now that you have a CYA level of 30, follow the TFP FC/CYA chart, but ignore the Minimum of 2ppm, use the low end of the Target range (4ppm) as your minimum, a false bottom as it were, so that you have a built-in safety margin.
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Got it. I did not realize that. Thanks for clarifying. I will get this up ASAP tomorrow. This is all very new to me so you may have to spell some of the simple things out for me but I'm very thankful you guys are here to keep me in line.
 
mknauss said:
You can reduce the RPM to whatever you need to skim the surface. Also reduce the run time if you like. If you have TOU electrical run it when the cost is least.
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This is going to open a whole new can of worms of questions haha. I've got no idea on the time or the RPM needed to turn enough water over per day. Is there a formula or somewhere I can find this info at?
 
Turnover is a myth. I said what RPM you need to skim the surface. Time to run the pump depends on many factors. Start at 8 hours but it is very likely you can do with less.
 
Ok back with a little update. Keeping my FC around 5.0 ppm and still working to get that TA down to around 80. As of this weekend it was right around 100 so getting there slowly. When the pH gets up to about 7.8 or higher, I'm adding MA to drop it down to 7.2. CYA is up to about 35ppm. However, my CH seems to be going down. It's currently at about 150. Should I still not be concerned with this? I only ask because pool math has the ideal range listed as much higher. And I have added fill water a few different times.

And Marty, I realize this is probably a dumb question but want to be sure I'm understanding you correctly. When you say RPM needed to skim the surface, I can turn it down to the minimum RPM where both skimmers are still pulling water?
 
Your CH can only be decreasing if you are removing pool water and replacing it with fill water of lower CH. Evaporation does not count.

When I say skimming, I mean to remove the foreign material that falls in the pool and floats to a skimmer. Such as leaves.
 
Wow you're fast. Thanks Marty! Ok, so still removing that stuff on the surface efficiently. That clears it up.

Definitely not removing water. I have added some fill water to top it off as we are still having weather consistently in the 90s and the level was getting lower but that's it. I'll test it again tomorrow and see what it comes out to. But either way, nothing to worry about and I am OK at the 150-160 range? And this should continue to increase on its own slowly over time?
 

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mknauss said:
Maintain your pH in the 7's and the TA will lower naturally. I would let the pH rise some to 7.8 or 8 prior to adjusting to 7.6 or so. The lower CH lends yourself to having a higher pH and TA for now. Your fill water will eventually raise your CH so not really sure you want to raise your CH with chemicals.
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Hey Marty, been about a month and a half since initial fill after new plaster. I have added quite a bit of fill water since then but CH has remained right around 160. At what point should I be adding chemicals to raise this to the recommended levels?
 
You can add calcium chloride if you wish. But be aware that your fill water will raise your CH over time.
 
I would suggest leaving CH alone in your pool. As Marty said, it will continue to rise on it's own. I would test it about every 2-3 weeks or so and monitor it as it goes up. You will likely have to reduce it in a year or so.
 
I have read the lower than recommended levels can damage plaster by seeking out the calcium in the plaster? Is this not a concern?

I just want to be sure there is not a point at which you would recommend raising this by adding calcium chloride as I was starting to become concerned it was too low for this amount of time and I misunderstood your directions.
 
Alright guys, time to check back in. So it's been a few months and my CH is still sitting about 150 and has not gone up at all. I've been checking it every few weeks and adding minimal amounts of fill water as needed but did also have to drain some water during a very heavy rain storm recently. Is it still safe to be waiting for the fill water to be raising the CH level?
My main concern is the articles that talk about the low levels of CH possibly causing damage to plaster. I have been trying to keep the pH in the high 7's to try and keep my CSI as close to in range as possible. Currently at a -0.37 based on the Pool Math calc. Am I on the right path here with this current method?
Current numbers for reference:
pH - 7.9
TA - 70
CH - 150
CYA - 35
Water Temp - 52F
 
chubbs said:
Fill water CH is about 130-140ppm
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When summer arrives, you will have evaporation. Not sure where in 'Bay Area' you are, but that evaporation could be less (say Pacifica) or quite high (say Dublin). With evaporation, you will be adding that 130+ppm CH water to your pool, and your CH will rise.

Keep your CSI at 0 to slightly positive. Your CH will rise.
 

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